NoLongerHere

That's funny because there is one sitting in my 260. Modified the original auto brake pedal from my 260 to fit it next to it, i.e cut it down and kinked it.

240K is the first one that springs to mind.

But the back seats are only big enough for circus midgets and lap dogs. What sort of a threesome do you haul? P.S. Also own a 2+2 and not because I couldn't afford a 2 but because I was looking for an RX7 when I found my 2+2 and I've owned it ever since. I've had it longer than I've known my wife. I keep telling her push comes to shove I know what one will leave first. Yes it would be the car but hey sometimes you just have to do some hollow threats. Make yourself feel big,

I bought a kit from http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/years ago its missing some pieces for the 2+2 but all the big major pieces are there.

After a brake distribution block. Do you have one and if so how much to post to Newcastle? Cheers.

If your stuck, you can use the pedals out of other Datsun. they can be swapped across. Also you can cut the brake pedal down if you can only source a clutch pedal.

Dumb question cause I've not read the entire thread, 2+2 is different or same tower width for the rear? If its the same I'm down for a set (front and rear) of the round ones. PM me your bank details and when you need the deposit by and I'll send you my hard earned cash.

I think it looks good. With none colour coding and blending it doesn't get that horrible to much bum look.

One reason people used to recommend idle warm ups rather than driving was the quality of oil that used to be around but since the synthetics have come into common use that has gone. One other reason is throttle response. Engines don't respond nicely when cold. Picture this, you go to exit a street. Its cold, the windows are misty, holy crap batman its an on coming car in the pre dawn with no headlights on. Stab the accelerator to get through the corner quickly, it coughs, splutters and no headlight dude cleans you up. I usually sit any carby car idle for 30-60 seconds till the idle smooths out a touch and I have throttle response and then drive gently till up to temperature. Each one is different. My motorbike sits idling for 2 minutes so the carbies can respond. No way I want that stalling mid corner or mucking about. Plus its oil cooled so takes quite a long time to get to temp.

Still been around but had kids, bought a house, bought a whole lot of other cars and a couple of motorbikes. I've been getting side tracked a little bit. I saw your rust. Its heart breaking sometimes to find such what should be a simple fix has been made ten times worse because someone took "short cuts" the first time and made it longer even in that first time.

You'll have no problem if you present it clean and don't argue. The lack of charcoal canister may be an issue. I recently had to get my escort blue slipped (been off the road for 3 years). I jammed a canister into it. Plumbed the vacum line to a blank on the air box and carby and the return to tank was a hose that disappeared into my rail. It looked legit so the gentlemen didn't ask questions. I failed on non original seats. The car car Mk2 2.0L had a non standard carby, extractors, 2.25 inch exhaust, bigger brakes, wheel spacers and 16inch RS Focus wheels (which both the spacers and wheels have since gone, I hated them), rear mounted battery. What else is illegal without a cert that it had... can't remember but he failed me on non original seats because the seats in it didn't use the original runners and didn't slide back and front. Throw in 35 year old crappy seats and it passed. I was nice to the guy and when it came in for a recheck he didn't even crack the bonnet.

Which question to answer first. I originally had rust bubbles coming up in a few spots. Started sanding the areas back and found allot of bog. So I sanded deeper and found more bog and then some really bad patches under the bog. Borrowed a paint thickness meter and the only place I could detect metal was the roof. So the all the paint came off. Found all old repairs were just patches tact welded over the holes (rust not even cut out), the patches hammered down and bogged back into shape. So the blue photo that is a photo of how good bog can be used to create a car shape. Quite disappointed with what I found under the paint. Not really for reason of legs but the truth is I put the bumper back on to work out where to cut it up. It is now bumperettes. I am stilling using the original zed one flexed into place. Its broken on one side since the rear brakes went on so I'm not sure what will be the final setup. Next weekend I'll crawl under the car and take a photo to show you how it is set-up. Thanks for the other comments guys. I still have some tuning issues with the engine. Need to move to bigger injectors and more reliable fuel pump set-up but its getting there. And here is an old photo of the R31 disc on the back end. I've got no behind it photos to show the handbrake, I'll get some during the week.

I can answer this question. The committee underwent a bit of a change and the President took a hard line on not wanting people to participate with the club unless they were a member. They also seemed to have a problem with anyone below the age of 40, though I'm not saying that is all of them, just the committee. Newcastlezeds members always used to go across both forums but that is no longer the case, specially since Newcastlezeds folded up at the end of last year mostly due to a lack of interest. Still as the zeds get rarer you'll find most people will drift towards Datsun clubs (all rounders instead of unique model only)

Hi most people call me Shaddow (work, home, just not my wife or mother or the police for that matter). I've a 260Z 2+2 which I pulled off the road for a rust repair five years ago. So it got fully stripped, the engine freshen up became a complete swap along with transmission and few other bits and pieces. My avatar is how it currently sits and drives. Yes it drives though its really hard to see where I'm going at night. I also have a 79 Ford Escort Mk2 2.0L which is a little heavily worked (last owner went to far) and I'm slowly getting it more drivable which is my wet weather vehicle and 5 days a week you can find my on my Suzuki GS500F. Bikes are a recently found addition to my motoring passion. Here is what has been done to the old girl so far, the list to go is somewhat larger. Body: Rust repair - Still on going. Plus removing old rust repairs that were quite frankly very scary. Removal of 20+ Kilos of bog Rebuilt Dog Legs and Sill Rebuilt Rear Hatch Slam Panel Front Bumperettes Removal of Rear Bumper Engine: L27 (3.8L V6 Series 2) (with no power steer or air con on it) 2 x CT12A Turbos Custom chipset for standard computer to suit Turbos 2 Bar MAP sensor Pacemaker Extractors Custom Turbo Dump Pipe Lukey Exhaust System Range Rover 3.9L V8 Air box VS Commodore Radiator (Just what I had kicking around at the time) TurboSmart FPR 800 Fuel Regulator Remote Oil Filter (Ford filter of some sort from memory) Ford XR6 Inter cooler Driveline/Suspension: T5 Transmission Hilux Four Piston Callipers up front R31 Rear Disc Conversion Custom Built Tail-shaft (dam its light) Stainless steel brake flex lines Conversion from cable clutch to hydraulic for the T5 - Using a Zed master and a S12 Hilux Slave Urethane Radius Arm Bushes Urethane Steering Coupler Bush Here are some pics of the old girl. This is from when I first got her before the rust showed up. I was doing the rear brake conversion at this time. Here is is with the L27 sitting in the bay with its modified sump