foodie

Sold!

Price Drop!!! Get a bargain

*bump* make an offer

Added three more pics to the gallery, 2 of under the boot carpet in the corners and one of the rear hatch which has a $2coin of rust, probably the rustiest part of the car. Peter, I don't follow your reply?

Model: Hybrid 260z coupe 1974 Required Location: Brisbane (Sunnybank) Required Price and Payment Conditions: SOLD Item Condition: Good, fair & ugly Body: - No major rust, just some small bits here and there - come and have a look or ask me for pics of a particular area - Vehicle paint is matt black, ready for some love and a new paint - Straight car - Grille is in the boot Mechanical: Running Registration: No Engineers Certificate: Yes for blue plate items (engine/transmission/brakes), not RWC however Pictures: Gallery of pics here https://plus.google.com/photos/115688142678366959104/albums/5931492022090994177 Extra Info: Engine / Transmissions - RB20DET - Engineering approved - Garret turbo (Rebuilt and travelled less than 100km) - Microtech ecu - FMIC - Turbo smart BOV (because you just need more attention) - 5 Speed rb20 (engineering approved) (buggered, still drives but shifting needs attention) - Another 5 speed in the boot (have not tried but purchased to replace in car tranny) - Spare full set of Supra injectors (440cc) - Cleaned and tested (not installed) - NEEDS A NEW RADIATOR - JUST NOTICED A LEAK AT THE BOTTOM, WILL FIX AND ADD $200 to the price or AS IS! New Fuel system parts - Bosche 044 Fuel pump - Lift pump - Low pressure fuel filter - High pressure fuel filter - Underbonnet fuel pressure guage Brakes - Front hilux calipers reconditioned with new kit - Front pads new - Engineered approved Suspension & Wheels - Koni shocks and springs - Stock rims with old hard tyres on them Interior - Dash is split and had a carpet glued on it which I ripped off to see if the dash - Carpet needs replacing - Centre console is in the boot - At some point in its life the door trims were redone and the seats Other - Headlight relay upgrade mod - Rebuilt headlight stalk I have owned the car now for 6 years. I have never registered it, I have a daily driver and this was to be a long term project. I just didn't find the passion for it but kept it thinking one day I would. It's funny though, everytime the wifer said to sell it, I found a passion for it I wish I had acreage and a shed, it would be staying!! I have tinkered with it here and there to get it ready to register. Latest spend was new fuel pumps, before that reco the front brakes. Contact Details: SOLD

So I sent my ecu away to get tested, as the only item left in the chain which I cannot test. Just got an email back today and an invoice! "It had a damaged ignition adapter which is the processor that receives the signal from the cam sensor. Cost of the repair was $125 plus $15 for the return freight. Double check over all the wiring before you reconnect the ECU as the damage will most likely have been caused by something not right with the cam sensor wiring" Nice!! Burnouts are imminent!!!!!

My I ask the cost of the reskin?

I will take that! pm me your bank and pickup details. Thanks

If the price is right, I'm going the Link G4 ecu and new loom for the rb20det and carry over to the rb25 once I blow this up. Very comprehensive documentation and explanation into lots of areas.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ba9s-1-2w-70-lumen-6500k-5-smd-led-car-white-light-bulbs-pair-dc-12v-51198 http://s.dealextreme.com/search/ba9s

Will have a look at Adaptronic. Also interested in the Link G4 Storm. Thoughts? Sits between the Sprint and Sport haltechs on price Q. On the CAN systems in these. I assume apart from the connectors, you can plug in any CAN enabled device.

One more question while you are all here On a semi-sequential injection setup, the injector is spraying twice while the inlet valve is shut per cylinder per 720d. Does this mean you can get double the fuel capacity out of an injector?

Get to the point and suggest something

I am new to efi - but I have been working with computers for 20 years. What I do and don't understand about the sprint 500, is how does it control a 6 cylinder. I understand wasted spark, igniting on the exhaust stroke, but when I try to find information on the injection, it looks like 2 cylinders will inject fuel at the same time, one on the powerstroke and one on the exhaust. 4 ignition and 4 fuel - how does that work on a 6 cyl? It must, as many are doing it, but I cannot read or see a diagram for it. I like the idea of megasquirt, after all, for $100 I can get a phone with more processor power than any ecu on the market, which makes me cringe when by default many cannot run independent spark and injection per cyl.

Happy to be talked out of it Currently running an rb20det with microtech mt-8 which I think is flakey. Goal is to build a reliable strong rb25 that can push the 260 to mid 12sec quarters. The sprint 500 is my next choice. Anything else I should think of?

Hey guys, I have read a lot about the megasquirt 3 and it really is a nice bit of kit. What I am unsure of is the ability to use your standard RB25/20 cas sensor. Some say yes, some say no, some say yes but change X/Y/Z Anyone in here with experience? I am on a wild Google chase for correct information before I lay out some $ on a prebuilt ecu. Otherwise I am looking at the sprint 500 haltech, which will do the job, but not as cool as a megasquirt. Cheers!

Not sure who the webmaster is of the website ( I do this for a living), but you could replace in the template the search box with the below code which put a google custom search on your site. Same thing as everyone above has said, but changes your search on the site to use Google. http://www.google.com/cse/ Also happy to help reducing the hosting costs, I see the monthly costs and that is a bit expensive. <div id="cse" style="width: 100%;">Loading</div> <script src="http://www.google.com/jsapi" type="text/javascript"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> google.load('search', '1', {language : 'en', style : google.loader.themes.V2_DEFAULT}); google.setOnLoadCallback(function() { var customSearchOptions = {}; var customSearchControl = new google.search.CustomSearchControl( '002381002229665502741:hqajjtlkpbi', customSearchOptions); customSearchControl.setResultSetSize(google.search.Search.FILTERED_CSE_RESULTSET); customSearchControl.draw('cse'); }, true); </script>

Moving house next weekend. Take a bit to settle in. Then I am thinking I might make a Mega-squirt and make a new harness / relay setup.

Gone! FREE: RB20DET Silvertop parts (long block, 2x heads, cams, gtr cams, coils) Location: Brisbane, Algester Condition: Dunno, been sitting there waiting for me to pull a finger out. Long block looks good with crank/pistons etc. Gotta go within the next 2 weeks. Thomas

This is more a rant than a request for help, as I am beyond help! For 2 years my 260z rb20det (redtop) MT8 Microtech sat in the garage with a bunch of electrical problems. 1 by 1 I solved them over the last couple of weeks, headlights, rebuilt combo switch, re-soldered or removed 10's of joins in the ignition/dash harness, clean up relays under the bonnet etc All the time, doing these little jobs, building up to the big one, start the blasted car!! Still unsure why, but the ecu was not getting juice from the ignition feed and I cannot work out where the hell this wire was going once it went into the engine bay harness (this weekends job). So what I did was hotwire it on a fuse directly with a new wire to the ignition wire behind the key. Great, juice for the relays and ecu. Click, fuel pump primes, ecu powers up, sensors are sensing. Crank, crank, crank - nothing, no spark(tested). Hmmm, at this point, my engine bay is all undone, wires everywhere, no covers on anything, inter-cooling piping off so I can get the coil cover off etc etc etc. TPS adjusted etc Hmm, ecu not seeing RPM when cranking, bad CAS - ok, replaced with a silvertop, new plug/shielded cable straight to ECU - fingers crossed! BAM! Still no RPM while cranking and no injectors firing/spark while turning it with ignition on. hmmmmmmm *ding*, maybe that ignitor needs an earth...ok, earth strap temporarily attached. Crank the engine...BWAARRP we have take off!!! yippeeeeeeeeeee Ok, time to put it all back together as I have solved this problem....30 mins later. lets start here again and get her upto temp. crank crank crank, nothing!! f&*king nothing!!!!!! Pull it all apart again, recheck all the relays are getting 12v, yep, CAS getting 12v,8v,5v,5v etc. Injectors have power. Scratch head again.... Re-flash eprom on hand controller to ecu. Power off, power on, start ya bastard!!!! BAM it does, wow, lets run this thing up to temp and see how the fans work - they don't (another problem). Engine off. Put everything back together, you guessed it - won't start again yet everything has power. Maybe it's some dodgy wiring that I have not found yet, but I am thinking a have a busted ECU that has been made to piss me off and some nerd at Microtech is laughing his ass off because his little program has kicked in to shit me with random working!!!! My next task, rewire the 3 relays which control the ignitor/fuelpump/thermofans. If this doesn't do it I will then pay some sparky to have a squizz before I purchase a new ECU Anyone got an mt8 they want to rent me Anyone know a mobile sparky around south brisbane? Sorry for my rant, driving me nuts!!!

Thanks mate, its hammer time!!

So welding in a new channel won't void my chances of a road worthy? I know welding to a chassis is a no no on my 4wd. I hit it pretty hard this afternoon with a regular hammer. Needs more weight like a sledge, but it wont straighten the bent frame underneath. I am going to have to rip up the noise deadner to check for rust. Thanks guys. While waiting for the replies to this tread I rebuilt my combination switch and now have headlights again!! Relay mod for the headlights is on the list!

Hey guys, Pretty new to the forum (posting wise). I have finally got some urge to get my machine on the road. 1 item I am not sure about in regards to passing a safety cert in QLD is the floor on my 260z. It looks like the car has had a bingle and landed on something pushing up the floor and the 'gusset' ? I have never had this thing registered, but when I did drive it home and around the block when I bought it, it drove fine. What do you guy think? Is this repairable? Are you allowed to cut it out and weld in a new piece? I see with some floor replacements that the 'gusset' also comes with the floor, does this mean you cut it and weld it back on again? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-LEFT-HAND-PASSENGER-FLOOR-PAN-/230761380148?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ba733934#ht_1847wt_952 Obviously I want the car safe, but this doesn't look or feel like it's going to move or break - not rusty etc. Hump Trying to show you how high the hump goes, about an inch.

Everytime I reply or post it asked me to type in verification.. I understand you must get some spam, but does it go away after a while?? hehe

i bought the car, telling the wife I was selling my boat (i raced thundercats for 7 years)...but I didnt sell the boats (notice the plural). No fuses blown, no thermal fuses blown. I thought I should chase down every connection cut into wires over the last 30 yrs but I got the shits after pulling the dash out hehe So the boats are now gone! Keen to get this thing running while its winter so I don't need to fork out for some aircond. btw, does the 'captcha' letter disapear after so many posts??