Mickl

message sent mickl

Hello I have some of the parts you are after. I will pm you. Mickl

I too will be grateful if earlier acceptances don`t eventuate. Where are they available in moulded form? I have been carting around a cardboard cutout of the back of the wheel arch to check if any modern car flaps are similar......without any fitting so far! That original bent bit of rubber on the fronts is hideous! Mickl

Much appreciated Mr KOBES PM sent Mickl

Console is black but any colour is ok as it can be sprayed. pic attached regards Mickl

Thanks for the post. I will get a picture tomorrow and get it to you somehow tomorrow night. regards mickl

Folks, My son-in-law bought a 280zx a couple of weeks ago and is loving this old girl to death! There is a hole in the console where the ashtray and cover used to be and he would dearly like to get something to fill it up. Are there any out there in the sheds? As an aside he found that the timing was 2 links out so he is well impressed by the increase in the engine performance now. The same thing happenend on my 260 which nearly doubled the power when fixed earlier this year. Begs the question though that there must be some really bad mechanics out there who could get it so wrong in the first place?? Anyhow, any ashtrays out there to make it look pretty again? Thanks in advance Mickl

hello.....do you still have ashtray/cover from the console? Regards Mickl

hello I am short the small ashtray on the console neat the auto shift lever. Any luck here? could you tell me how much and incl post to Nelson Bay please. Mickl

Hello Am missing the small ashtray and lid on the console near the auto shift lever......there is just a hole at present. Do you have one and if so can you call me re cost and postage to Nelson Bay please. Mickl 0407408944

Thanks for the help guys. I managed to get a s/h oil rail..........thanks Phil. It does not have the cast aluminium pieces but has pressed steel ones but everything seems to be all lined up Ok so I am now back on the road. Mickl

Hello guys Kristian...I will pm you if I can work out how to do so. Roberto.......I have electronic ignition and twin SU round tops already. The 90hp came from the dyno after a tune up last week which set camshaft timing, adjusted carbies etc. The power was well down before the tune as cam timing was well out. The result was well worth the cost of the tune up but maybe this is an old engine which would need some work to get it back to the 110hp you indicate. I will park the car until I manage to get hold of a new oiling rail....which broke during the tune up. thanks for the advice. Regards Mickl

Folks My 260 had a bent...now broken...camshaft oiling rail. Any ideas on where to get another one? i understand the 240 didn`t have one but did the 280? Anyhow, it is operating without one at the moment and i guess that is not so good in the long run. Any help or advice will be very welcome. On a second note, the (standard) engine is putting out 90.5 HP at 5100 revs....is that a reasonable performance for this old girl? Thanks in advance mickl

hello there Anyone with an old 240z air cleaner box they don`t want? Thanks Mickl

looking for clutch and fan Mickl

I got both rear hatch rubbers from Thompsons rubber and the inner one was fine but the outer was not good. I ended up chucking it away and doing without one. See my more detailed posts about glues etc under the "interior" section of this forum under the posting "rear hatch seals/stripped bolt..." I`d hate to see someone else go through what i did! Mickl

hello today mtopxs.... I now recommend you ditch the outer seal completely after what was for me another wasted effort to get it glued up. It is so bulky that the hatch won`t fit in the space and I can`t get close to shutting the hatch. So out with the stanley knife, tore it up and threw it away. Now another big job to clean off the locktite contact adhesive which is very difficult to remove...even lost a bit of 2pack paint here and there ...it sticks on so well. I heard that warren at allzed parts sells a different outer rubber that may be better but I`ve given up and will rely solely on the inner rubber to keep the water out. Mickl

have you tried to glue it on yet? It is very difficult to get it in place along the sides. I hear sikaflex 227 with prior etching of rubber with a special sika prep liquid is required. I used 252 and it didn`t stick to the rubber but cured on the paint like you won`t believe. nothing gets it off according to the rep except a grinder! Maybe ordinary contact cement will work but its going to be difficult to get it positioned first time whilst the glue is tacky. If I ever get the sikaflex off I will glue the long inside leg first and may put an angle over it with self tappers to hold in place. Then when dry try gluing down the short leg. This particular cross section rubber from Thompsons is not designed for the sides where there is a step. It goes OK across the top but not the top corners. Looks like other Zeds have a different outer rubber cross section which may be easier to apply. I think I also now know why many z`s don`t actually have an outer rubber and rely on the inner only. Mickl

Now I am also working out today which way to glue that outer hatch seal down. I see from the arrowed picture that the photo car does not actually have the outer seal in place so I am wondering from anyone out there which leg of the seal (the two are different lengths) goes on the inside face (the vertical in the pic) and which on the outside (the horizontal one). I am thinking the longer leg goes outside but it will need cutting a bit where it goes over the tops of the hatch hinges maybe? I am also wondering if the hatch will seat down on the outer rubber across the top or will the presence of the rubber make it sit up a bit proud? Is that why the outer seal is often not found on old Zeds?? bit fuzzy photo of short length cross section of my as yet to be glued on outer seal Mickl

Well it does sound easy like the restoration book says but I am finding it difficult. i will try the grease/wd40 suggestion next but still have the problem of about 6 clips busted up. Any sites in the US likely to carry new stock? I attached a pic of the damn clip next to the chrome strip for ref Thanks Mickl

How is it done? I have been attempting to put them back on but it is proving very difficult. The 6 small spring clips on each gutter trim get squashed when I try to roll them back on so I straighten them and they snap, being very old :'( Can you buy new ones somewhere and what is the technique in getting them back on if I am able to find 12 new ones? If they can`t be bought new how to attach the trims? Mickl

I`m just a few weeks behind your progress and mine is very red too...Ford Monza was mentioned. But my problem is one you have probably overcome....how do you get the dumb trims back on the gutters above the doors? I keep bending and snapping the small spring clips so the technique is no good and I need to find some new clips now. Any ideas?...I might post a topic too on this. Mickl

Gents, you were spot on..... a flattish battery which is now charged up and the whole thing just works fine again. Thanks Mickl

Gents The starter motor just makes a rapid clacketty sound and won`t engage the flywheel so I tried hitting it with a hammer to free up whatever is sticking but to no avail. Do I have to remove the starter motor and dismantle and clean or relubricate something? Is it a simple task? Mickl

Gents........where do you get `em in Aus? Front and back. Expensive? How do homemade ones from new conveyor belt rubber look as I still have the metal brackets and could source some mat the right thickness? Mickl