DevilZ

I've built up a stroker that currently in my car. The best parts to use depends really on your budget as strokers can cost a tonn of money when built right. All up I spent around 20k on my engine. The only thing I didn't do myself (aside from all the machine work which is the bulk of the work) was the tuning. The machine work and custom parts will cost a heap of money. Like I had a custom billet steel flywheel made to take a GTR clutch, the flywheel and clutch come to almost 2k. I'm running multi throttle bodies too with a tripple coil ignition. That with the computer, fuel pumps and all will come to around 8-9k. In the end in my opinoin it is definately worth it though. I'm making over 220rwhp using a 74 degree cam and 98 octane. I set the rev limit to 7k and it easily reaches that without a problem and still has enough torque to acceleratefrom 50km/h in 5th uphill. Thats come at a 20k cost though.

That will be almost impossible to find as anyone with a Z with a good interior and shagged engine would just fit an engine to the car and sell it for a huge amount more.

Actually the 16x8 with a -4 will be perfect and I might have to end up going that way actually. I would prefer 17's though because then I can use my current tyres. Will find out what they have to say on it tomorrow then go from there. If they let me bring the car home withmy current setup then I can take my time to have some wheels made, though I wont be able to drive it. The other option will be those 16's from Ben I guess and then just some new tyres. Yeah I wasn't happy with the +20 offset even, I'd prefer a +10 as then the wheel would sit right on theeddge of the guards. Just very difficult to get wheels for the Z. the problem I was getting with the brakes wasjust that the caliper comes aout 2cm foward from the hub, meaning I need a wheels with good spoke clearence from the hub. The wheels Ben has will fit, would have worked out perfect if he had 17x7.5 or 17x8 in that offset. I know I can get those RB Rota's from the states in 17x7.5 with a +4 offset.Will be a bit of wait though.

Ohhh no, I'm after wheels to buy. I was running 17x7 with a positive 40 offset and a 20mm hub adaptor. After my car was hit the wheel was damaged so insurance wont let the car leave the workshop without new wheels and my car is ready to pick up tomorrow. The problem is if an accident happens or the wheel breaks etc they are liable, so they want it sorted before I pick it up. I ordered a set of Performace Wheels 17x7 with +20 offsets 7 weeks ago. They were suppose to take 6 weeks to make but when I called them back the other day they told me they wont make them anymore until they have enough orders.....information they should have given at the start......so here I am after some wheels. They dont want me to use the hub adapters because they aren't street legal to use so I have a bit of problem. Having big brakes means I cant fit stock wheels either. As for Ben's wheels, the 17's are just too wide. They will hit my struts and the fenders. My 17x7's with an effective +20 offset are 4mm away from the inside strut so for me to run Bens wheels the tyres will hit as the are 8.5 wide unless the tyres have a massive stretch on them.

I had a look at those but I need them straight away, plus they dont look like they will fit without rubbing.

Hi, I need wheels to suit a 260z with big brakes urgently. Basically I'm after 17x7, 4x114.3 stud pattern with an offset between +10 to +20. I'd settle for 16 inch wheels as well in the same sizing of any other 16 inch or 17's that people know will fit on a 260z without hitting the struts or the edge of the gaurds. Needed ASAP, let me know. Ohhh I'm in Melbourne so would prefer local wheels.

Lower control arms are all yours.

Coilovers are now gone. The adjustable control arms are still up for sale. $70.

I'll be willing to sell the front adjustable control arms separately. As for the rest of the suspension set up, I'd only sell them as a complete set as if they are broken up into pieces they are harder to sell. This way if no one wants them I still have a spareset of suspension I can use as back up in my car. For the adjustable frontcontrol arms I'd want $70. That means the rest of the suspension setup will sell for $580.

Hi A few months ago I bought some race suspension from James (jk240z) when he was parting out his race car. I bought it as I plan to go racing and thought if I ever damage my current adjustable suspension I could just swap it over. However as this really isn't all that likely and will probably end up sitting in my house for years, so I thought I'll offer it to someone that is keen to use it currently if there interested. Front and rears are both sleved and height adjustable with lovels springs (no idea on spring rate). Fronts come with adjustable camber tops and adjustable control arms. The rears include the standard control arms and tops. All in very clean condition and look powder coated. The shocks are the standard inserts that have been re-oiled for track racing. Everything is just as I bought them, I'm located in Box Hill and will sell for $650 if anyone is interested.

How are you checking if you hae suction from the front carbs? The first thing youshould be doing to check if its your carbs that are at fault is this: Take the entire air cleaner assembly off so that you can look right into the carbs. Then start the car and open the throttle while looking ino the carbs to see if the needle moves up. As the throttle increases along with vacume, the carbs should open up obviously. If they dont then use a screw driver to slide it up and see if there is any resistance or if it can move freely. Once I know this then I can tell you what to test next. I was also curious as to wheather you just had an idle problem or if the car is not driveable? Is it fine at full throttle? If the carb isn't opening, the car wont be able to move really.

I heard different from engine builders. When I built my stroker I was told by engine builders not to run synthetic oil in the L series. There justification for this was that they said the L series aren't designed for it as they have larger oil gallerys. They said new engines are designed to run low viscosity synthetics as there oil gallerys are smaller along with bearing clearences etc.....they said to run a good mineral based oil instead to me. They also said that running a synthetic could lead to oil leaks from the gaskets on a L series.

No, if you put a rotory in it its only half a Datsun........... The other thing is the front of a Z is so long you could fit two 13b's in there. One rice burner for each of the rear wheels. LOL

It is possible to have spacers made to widen the hilux calipers. You can also use the rotors from a R31 skyline which are vented and 22mm thick. they fit between the calipers without making them wider. I use these on my car from DBA. They are about or close to 280mm by 22mm.

That's because you guys in NZ do dyno runs on sheep power not horse power!!! LOL

For comparison I've got a 3.1L stroker with 6 throttle body injection and am making 165RWKW's at about 6500rpm. That figures taken from EFI Dynamics during tuning on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. The dyno wasn't in 'shoot out mode' which usually reads higher then normal. I'm running mixer style headers rather then tuned length to give better low down torque. I have a 3.7 dif ratio and the car will accelerate from 50km\h in fifth on very steep uphill roads. The car really does come on hard from around 3500-4000rpm. I'm running a 74 degree cam. Having said that my engine is very wel spec'd out and I've spent a lot of time collecting parts for it from all over the world. Having had otherfast cars like STi's and things the 165RWKW's feels very accurate. When I saw Ben's 200RWKW figure I was fairly suprised, even given that his running 3.2L and tuned length headers. To achieve 200RWKW I would have thought it would need something like a 78 degree cam and to make that power at about 8000rpm. I guess it depends on what dyno you run on and what calibration factors you have dialed in but with 200RWKW comming on at 4000rpm I would think it would be faster then a 12.8 quater mile. For comparison my friends r33 gtst ran a 13 flat with a catback exhaust, front mount, 12psi boost off a stock turbo, cusco lsd, rock solid drift suspension and bald stock tyres. I'll have to take my Z for a quater mile pass soon to compare.

I had a search through Hybrid Z and that site is really good! They had quiet a few pics and discussions but they confirmed what I had thought with my measurments. They reckon an 8.5 wide with +6 offset will be 15mm or more out of the gaurd. I manage to find a guy in Sydney that can sell Lenso's which are 4x114.3, 17x7 with a 20 offset, which I know will just fit without hitting my springs. The only problem is the wheels are 5 spoke and look way too bling for me. I like the Rota RB's but they just dont have them in 7 or 7.5.

Yeah I saw those wheels but I didn't think they would fit on a 1976 260z(larger strut) with the stock non-adjustable spring platforms? I thought that 8.5 inch wde front and back would be too wide without flaring the guards. Is anyone currently running these with the stock guards that can confirm the fitment on the fronts and backs? Yeah I took a look at simmons and called them up but they are quiet expensive at around $700 a wheel. I was hoping to spend well under 2k if possible. Worst case I will get 40 offsets again and just use the hub adapters, but I'm not sure if hub adapters are legal and if there are any other issues on using them.

Hi, I am currently running 17x7 inch wheels with a positive 40 offset and a 20mm bolt on hub adapter/spacer. As I need to change my wheels I was thinking that i'll get some that I can bolt on without using the hub adapter anymore. So something with the 4x114.3 stud pattern in 17x7inch with an offset between positive 10 to 20. The problem is I cant find a single wheel matching this description. Does anyone know where I can get some and the prices or even if they are available in that size? I've called a number of wheel stores all over Aus and come back with nothing. What wheels are people out there using and does everyone with 17inch running a spacer if not custom made wheels? Any help will be appreciated. Raj

I'll buy them for $100. Could collect them tomorrow afternoon?

Hi Chris. No all good I didn't take the rear brakes. Sorry but took the suspension(front + rear), front brakes, control arms and the roll cage. Rear brakes are all yours.

Hi James, I'm interested in the suspension, brakes and roll cage but I cant get you on the phone. Give me a call back so I can grab some specs. Should have a few missed calls on your phone.

Sounds good to me !!! If you email me details and location I'll give my uncle in NZ a call to come pick it up and pay you. my email address is rpar7@hotmail.com

Hi, I'm interested in the stroker crank or even 2 of them. How much is the exact price you want for it? I have someone in Auckland that could pick them up for me.

Na its okay. Will be at Sytlerods by this afternoon. I damage is quiet minimal and Chassistec were doing all the suspension work, engine mounts that were needed anyway. No its just a straight pannel swap and spray. I have a feeling that its time consuming sourcing parts and things for the car and it will just end up taking him too long. I think he has some other cars lined up which will be faster and easy money for him so I think thats why his decided against it. But not to worry, Stylerod seem like they will do a really good job. Any engine work needed will be carried out by Speedtec anyway. It will just be a throttle sync and slight tune after engine removal and refit.