lambs

Very, very unlikely.

It's been bugging me for awhile. I had read somewhere here a claim that a vinyl roof (note: not sunroof, but a vinyl covering for the roof) was not a factory option for Z's. It's been many years since I'd looked at it, and it took me awhile to dig it out from where it had been buried, but the factory parts list for Oz spec 240Z/260Z shows: S30 series Parts List, Pub No C0010R (Dec 1979 revision) Miscellaneous sub-Group Section 180, grid ref J4 'Leather Top & Racing Stripe" PN 04160-00003, Leather Top, QTY=1 (subsequently superceded by PN 04160-00016 with same description) There's a drawing provided showing the vinyl roof and the materials/tools required to fit it. So it came as a kit and was probably fitted by the dealer. Obviously the roof was not actually leather, but had that 'look'.

I've been running a Subaru 60A alternator with built-in IC reg for 15+ years on the Z without a problem. No special plugs or diodes. Another alternative is to get hold of an Ingrams IC regulator to replace the mechanical type. Not sure if they make them any more, but was the most common solution for all Datsuns with a mech reg.

For the standard jack, there are specially reinforced areas of the sill panel pinch-welds just behind the front wheels or in front of the rear wheels. They are identifiable by small, half-moon cut-outs in the pinch weld, although with a lot of cars the pinch weld gets crushed/bent over the years, esp if a careless mechanic uses the standard hoist lifts (ie flat) on them..... For a trolley jack, I use the centre of the front engine cross-member, or at the rear, the diff itself. The problem for lowered cars is getting into these areas, esp with cheap jacks. I have a low-profile, aluminium trolley jack which is perfect.

Remember that Craig's 260Z is a 2+2 and the cost of a roof panel from a 240Z or 260Z coupe will be significantly more expensive to obtain.

240Z carb's will give better fuel economy and overall performance. Theoretically the 2-barrel can be made to give good economy esp if it's a webber, but the manifold design is pretty crap and economy suffers. If you have a holley the situation will be worse as they are very crude carb's.

Then it was a 280ZX gearbox with a 260Z bell-housing. I've seen it done, and more than once. There's a certain well known Z-wrecker in Melbourne that's been known to pull that sort of stunt on the unsuspecting.

Obviously......

There is no such thing as a RHD Oz spec 240Z. At the absolute earliest they were sold in Oz in the second half of 1970. This matter has been researched to the nth degree by a number of people who tried to get the 240Z recognised for competition in Group Sb (basically 60's sports cars). Nissan's own records showed there were no 60's 240Z's. Even in the US which was the first market to get teh model there are probably less then 1000 or even 500 genuine 1969 240Z's

1mm at the disc will translate to quite a bit more at the outer diameter of the tyre and that could certainly result in some strange steering behaviour. The front wheel bearings have adjustable preload via a large nut under that 'silver cap' (there's also a split pin and a special type of lock washer). The adjustment involves using a torque wrench and I could decsribe it, but to me it sounds as if your 'not sure' (no offence). Regardless of the above (in terms of adjustment), it sounds to me as if there's a fair bit of wear in those bearings, or they haven't been looked at for awhile. Having them 'loose' like that would certainly place them under some unusual loads. I'd recommend replacing them and re-packing with new grease. New bearings will probably only set you back around $20/front wheel from a bearing specialist, but, of course, the adjustment procedure is still needed.

The original style 260Z and 240Z trim clips have a plastic rod up the middle that, once inserted, expands the locking claws to hold the trim in place. To get the clips out, the rod is driven further into the body of the clip using a fine drift until it literally falls out - and usually gets lost in the process The original clips have a rounded head and the rod looks literally like a molding defect once its flush with the rest of the clip head. I agree that buying aftermarket replacement clips is probably a better idea (and cheaper) unless you absolutely must have that original finish.

HS30 = 240Z (right-hand drive; HLS30 = LHD 240Z) RS30 = 260Z RHD GRS30 = 260Z 2+2 RHD S30 = Nissan model series designation H = L24 engine R = L26 engine I suspect you are talking about the silver ADR plate (??), in which case that's something that is not fitted by the factory in Japan, but when it gets to Oz and is issued by DOTARS.

L20A was not sold in any Oz Nissan delivered Skyline and certainly not C210, which came with L24S fitted with E30 head for us. L20A will be grey import only. Ferral errol at Datrats might be able to help. Beats me why anyone would bother importing an American spec head, esp a round ex port head. Certainly no extractors available here to suit, so either custom made, or import those as well. There are plenty of very fast NA Z's in Oz that haven't missed the supposed benefits of that type of head. E88 head from R30 Skyline is the way to go for an NA L6. Bumps the CR without the need for welding (which you should avoid at all costs if you can) and can be made to flow well with a good quality port. Add 44mm inlet valves and you have an excellent performance head. Leave the P90 head for turbo engines.

From the plates this car is in NSW, but your in vic based on your profile. Would you really spend $10K (or thereabouts) on a car you can't inspect for yourself ?? The car looks very good in the photos, but how recently were they taken ?? They appear to show a car with excellent paintwork, which might indicate they were taken not long after a respray, but rust appearing suggests reality might be different..... Cost of gearbox synchros will vary considerably depending on whether it's got a genuine 260Z gearbox (ie close ratio with servo/Porsche synchros) or the more commonly installed wide ratio gearbox from a late 240K/C210 Skyline/280ZX (warner synchros = cheaper). Auto 260Z's from '77 came standard with 3.54 R200 diff, but manuals had 3.7 gears. Doesn't sound like much, but the taller auto diff will knock the edge off acceleration if still fitted.

Yes, Motec, for about the last 10 years I suppose. Before that, Injec for a few years.

It's actually www.hra.org.au otherwise you end up at some American school. As far as Roadster's are concerned, suggest getting in touch with Lou Mondello who is probably the best known and most widely regarded Roadster specialist in Vic. He'll be able to let owners know, one way or another - (03) 9555 9591.

V/stacks will be the easy part....Mikuni/Solex, Webber and Dellorto all use the same bolt pattern. Spare parts for Mikuni/Solex will be the hard part as they've been out of production for more than 10 years. When I was still using mine as carb's I got parts from the distributor in Qld, but they haven't handled Mikuni/Solex for years. There used to be a Toyota specialist in Richmond that had some parts, plus there's a Datsun Fairlady roadster specialist I know that might have some. Parts can still be had from the US, but aren't cheap: http://www.toysport.com/catalog/Mikuni%20Carburater.htm

Yes, PCD and centre hole are the same plus the offset is correct to line up with the caliper once the bracket is bolted in place. The centre hole of the bracket needs to be bored to match the OD of the hole in the original brake backing plate. New holes have to be drilled in the bracket to match the original bolt pattern and some grinding of the strut is required to get the bracket to sit flat against the backing plate flange.

Looks more or less identical to the R31 type.