S130 two seater Fibreglass Doors?

[260DET]

Can't find anyone who makes these so I'm thinking of making a pair, the stock doors weigh heaps plus it's not fair that they are available for cheater S30's So, anyone have any idea about a good but economical way to make moulds off the stock doors? One inside, one outside I guess.

 

Basically for race use so plexiglass windows, either fixed with vents in them or vertically sliding using a strap under to raise and lower them. Thinking that a 'T on it's side' shaped metal frame so the latch and two hinges can be firmly attached to it, with it either moulded into the door or glued on. How does that all sound?

 

But basically I need tips and pics specifically on making door moulds though and particularly on what sort of mould frame/support would work.

[PeterAllen]

When I did it I just basically made two moulds, one for the skin and one for the rest. While my doors are considerably modified and I started from fibreglass doors it shouldn't be any problem with original doors. There are enough contours in the shape to create a stable mould but I did insert a rib along the base (see photo)

 

It's probably best to send me a PM with your e-mail address if you want a blow by blow description.

[luvemfast]

What about intrusion bars?

Or just make a skin for the outside and glue it on to the original door frame? 

[PeterAllen]

...Or just make a skin for the outside and glue it on to the original door frame? 

 

To be honest there would not be much weight saving in doing that. While the fibreglass door is lighter to achieve that you have to keep the material fairly thin and it would probably lack the durability for road use. The HUGE weight saving is in doing away with the window glass and the winding mechanism.

 

What about intrusion bars?...

I have incorporated recesses to fit end-plates to the intrusion bars which ensure the bars do not simply move into the cabin but have to overcome interference from the welded seam around the door opening. In addition by shortening the height of the door (50mm top and bottom) I now have larger sills through which I can install added intrusion bar - chassis stiffeners.

[260DET]

That's great Peter, nice work, it looks like you just did plain fibreglass moulds off your doors which did not need any extra bracing/support at all, is that right? Maybe a single plain length of timber along the door skin mould to stabilise it?  Will PM my email, no need to go into too much detail but specific tips would be great as would any pics of the moulds.

 

The reason for the proposed steel 'T on its side' steel piece in a finished door is to connect the hinges to the latch strongly and accurately, it could be made and fitted first and then incorporated in the door later. The leg of the T which will be horizontal could act as an intrusion bar which would suit my car as it already has a 3/4 cage.