DTF260 Posted December 25, 2011 Posted December 25, 2011 Hey guys, my rear right hand drive axle from the diff has snapped today, the coupling that bolts to the diff has shorn completely off. Some chrissy present Anyway i managed to unbolt it and limp the car home luckily. Has anybody else had experience with replacing this part or know what the part number/name of the part is? cheers for any replies fellas Quote
Six_Shooter Posted December 25, 2011 Posted December 25, 2011 Was it the universal shaft that snapped or the output axle flange that snapped? Quote
dat2kman Posted December 26, 2011 Posted December 26, 2011 While ypu are under the car, run some spanners over the other drive shaft, and tailshaft to diff flange. Surprising that they are a bit loose? It happens, unfortunately, the other tging that can let go, is the grease nipple fitted uni jpints in the half shafts, the grease nipple thread causes a structural weakness. Solution? Climb under a Datsun 1600 or a 240K and nick thier halfshafts, no grease nipples in the uni's! Let us know the state of the remaining nuts and bolts? Quote
RB30X Posted December 26, 2011 Posted December 26, 2011 So your driveshaft itself hasn't snapped in half, your bolts have sheared?? Could have been loose for a while and stretching the bolts until they snapped. You should have noticed a clunky drivetrain for a little while. Quote
dat2kman Posted December 26, 2011 Posted December 26, 2011 Oh, i dont know, when we all get old, we tend to get a bit clunky! How many times do we all read threads/posts re, "my diff/rear/arse/back end etc it clunky/banging/noisy?" Its just something that is so easily overlooked, dont blame yourself, we all do it. Quote
RB30X Posted December 26, 2011 Posted December 26, 2011 How many times do we all read threads/posts re, "my rear/arse/etc is banging/noisy?" Quote
DTF260 Posted December 26, 2011 Author Posted December 26, 2011 thanks for the replies fellas, yeah it seems its the uni joint itself thats busted. and yeah its a grease nipple fitted kind. i cant seem to figure out how you'd replace just the uni joint. would i be right in thinking that its these uni joints that are the weakest link in the driveline then. i guess i should get both replaced while im at it then huh. id hate for this to happen whenever i try launching the car with the new 255's :S heres some pics: Quote
dat2kman Posted December 27, 2011 Posted December 27, 2011 Yep, the nippled uni jpint ( sounds erotic!!) IS the weakest link in the chain. Try to replace, not sure if Hardy Spicer will have same, the diameters may need boring to fit something. Ask for non nippled, but i doubt if they can do that. A few have had the uni go in high grip situations, ie dragstrip starts, the track is extremely grippy, your situation of wide grippy tyres, similar thing! Now all of ypu running 12" wide rubber under ypur PhatPhlares, get under the car and check your nipples! Quote
DTF260 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Posted December 27, 2011 So the only way to improve the sturdiness is to go non nippled yeah? How would you lubricate the joint if I have a non-nippled joint in there?sorry if that's a stupid question haha Hmm flares and big tyres really aren't the best idea. The increased rolling mass really kill the acceleration Quote
d3c0y Posted December 27, 2011 Posted December 27, 2011 You can upgrade to CV type half shafts from a Z31 300ZX and R31s etc. You unis are probably 100 years old though and have been subjected to a lifetime of abuse, pretty common for them to bust. All this stuff has been covered many times in the past multiple times. RTFM Hmm flares and big tyres really aren't the best idea. The increased rolling mass really kill the acceleration WTF? Are you planning on running tractor wheels under your flairs or something? Quote
DTF260 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Posted December 27, 2011 haha well i wouldnt have thought id lose any acceleration, but the 9.5 rota's w 255's really do impact it noticeably, that is, compared to old 7in wheels w 235's Quote
dat2kman Posted December 27, 2011 Posted December 27, 2011 I get what you mean! Yes wider rubber grips, therefore something has to give, the weakest link thing! See if you can get ungreasable unis, ie no nipples, heck, Nissan made gazillions for Dato 1600, and 240 k c110 c210 etc, all with no greae nips, sealed and greased for life. Stew Wilkins used to be able to re uni them, but he would send them out to a driveshaft mob, maybe adk around. Yes other option is the cv convetsion, tjrse handle heaps more powere, but at end of day, you have been stressing something, renew them, they'll last a long time again, just stop doing clutch dump drag starts! Mental picture,,,, A cross dressing transvestite, squatting on the start line of a 100 metre race, and she/he, has jst shat through its lacy knickers !!! Oohh horrible! Quote
RB30X Posted December 27, 2011 Posted December 27, 2011 Mental picture,,,, A cross dressing transvestite, squatting on the start line of a 100 metre race, and she/he, has jst shat through its lacy knickers !!! WTF? Jason, I think you've inhaled too much tolulene this festive season. ;D ;D Quote
dat2kman Posted December 28, 2011 Posted December 28, 2011 Clutch dump drag starts !!! Bite bite bite! I knew someone would,,,,,,roflmao! Quote
Scando Posted December 28, 2011 Posted December 28, 2011 Hardy spicer do a heavy duty uni joint without the grease nipples and galleries as discussed. Haven't broke one with 266rwkw and 255 semi slicks. Quote
Scando Posted December 28, 2011 Posted December 28, 2011 Found the part number. RUJ-2028PL The PL is the important bit of the part number. Quote
DTF260 Posted December 28, 2011 Author Posted December 28, 2011 The hardy spicer website seems to be down. I'm considered going all out and upgrade to this: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61 Anyone gone to newer cv joint style shafts? Would you recommend it? Quote
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