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Posted

Seriously you should be able to fit the 16x8 +0. The +15 rim will make the steering heavier too from my experience and the wheel will sit inside the guard and generally not look as good.

 

Dont forget with the type of suspension zeds have that as the front of your car gets lower camber will increase and will help to put the tyre inside your guard. You may need to get the inner lip rolled but it will fit when you have an engine in it. I can take a pic of my car running +4s and 225s and you will see that there is enough space.

 

Also i think that my car looks 'over tyred' (not meant to be a pun...) on the front with that size tyre and im going to go down to either a 225/45/16 or a 215/50/16 to make it look a little more agressive but that is personal taste obviously.

Posted

OK i was enthused. Please bear in mind that i HAVEN'T rolled the lip inside the fenders on the front to fit these wheels. These are 16x8 +4s with 225/50s.

 

Here you can see the slight negative camber which increases as the wheel moves up.

8feb467e.jpg

 

OK in this one you see the tyre is in by 1 - 2mm so yours will be sticking out by about +2mm. You can easily get a mobile guard rolling guy out who can roll the inner lip of your guard up and unless you are going stupidly tyre in the guard low it wont be a problem. If you are super worried about this you can ask him to pull the fender out a little bit too. I got it done on the rear and was like $125. If you are still super worried about this just put 215 series tyres on the front which means you are getting rid of another 5mm per side which will put you -1mm on my current setup.

dd0a7036.jpg

 

Does that help with your wheel dilemas?

Posted

hey thanks for going to the trouble for me again re the brake issue stuff and now this

so yes i have 16x8 0s and 225 50s  i have put on the front many times and i have kmac camber plates i have no problem getting the top in

the camber only starts going negitive when the lca up goes past horizontal btw

the real issue is the little thing called QLD DOT little book of horrors says.... The rims and tyres must not protrude beyond the

bodywork of the vehicle, including flares, when viewed

from above with the wheels facing straight ahead...... and

The tyre to rim fitting and the tyre to rim combination

must be in accordance with the Tyre and Rim Standards

Manual published by the Tyre and Rim Association of

Australia....now if the proper version of the code of practice is intereperted the way half the hellaflush boys would like it to be then were ok

the measuring rim info i have for an 8" rim is 225 min and i dont really belive the bottom of the wheel is allowed to be past the guard when viewed from strait down  either

also the 225 50 and 205 55 is the only tyre inside 1% difference in rolling diameter like you said personal taste but much more than that and there not legal either

 

heres a crappy pic i took a while ago at no way its going to happen low...

front8.jpg

 

and lastly it not my worrys i got to think about its the engineers etc  ::) with help we will prevail eventually eh

Posted

Hey bud, love the build! Can you tell us where you got the dials/gauges made up and how much they cost you?

Cheers

Posted

speedhut and the price varys depends on the options I got the gps speedo with fuel guage built in to free up the smaller holes for the others and the datsun 260z writing was nice I thort best thing is the super easy wireing and can be made to work nearly any signal as is there great

Posted

Looks fine in the photo. I think you are worrying a little too much about it all ;D

Posted

Ok i got the front tyres fitted to the 16x7 +15's and well......

They fit sorta! haha it cleared the strut where i thort ide have a prob

and they get into the chassis at full lock but i think i may have a win soon

anybody ever had to limit the rack on these things?

maybe the shorter stroke on a power rack will solve 2 probs meh?

anyway pics or it dident happen....

wheels1.jpg

wheels2.jpg

wheels3.jpg

then i got arty... mmm grey lookn

wheels4.jpg

then i tryed to get the gauges again still not clear

gauges2.jpg

and finnaly this has to come out soon anybody want to buy a l28 that dont go but could

oldmotor1.jpg

the ride hight is at 7" mostly cos i just droped it off jacks but ide like it at least 2" lower

anyway back to work  ::)

Posted

Looking good.

 

You should align the needles on your gauges to sit at 0 before you "lock it in Eddie" cause that looks like you are already idling at 500rpm and travelling at 10 kmh while standing still.

Posted

Looking good.

 

You should align the needles on your gauges to sit at 0 before you "lock it in Eddie" cause that looks like you are already idling at 500rpm and travelling at 10 kmh while standing still.

 

Aftermarket gauges will do that for some reason until they see a proper signal.. Thats why you always see gauges at weird positions in car mags. 

Posted

I have the exact same gauges and all mine came aligned perfectly at 0.

 

If the plastic cover has come off for any reason, the gauge face can move a little and then not align properly. Ask how I know this 8)

Posted

How much do you want for your l28? What's been done and what needs to be done ?

 

Cheers, Lars

Posted

PM sent UBP260....

Ok theres a change in the wind this build may be on hold after next week

there may be another z in the family soon  (AGAIN!) :o

maybe i could breed them?

standby for shenanignz  ;D

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Oops now this is  going to be a distraction!

goldz1.jpg

This car is almost how i wanted mine 10-15 years ago  ::)

It had a few things not working properly eg indicators wipers and fan but 15 Min's later all fixed

pays to have had a z for a hella long time eh?

now a bit off a rust fix up and we get to play Zs again

the blue one can wait its been this long now!

 

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