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Posted

As some of you might know I recently purchased a 3.9 LSD from a guy in SA for $1,000-. He recently called me to let me know he found another in his shed. So if you want it for the same price then you better be quick. These things are hard to come by these days. He also has a 4.1 but not real keen to sell it but might at an inflated price if someone is real keen. Anyway let me know if you want his contact details.

Happy motoring with 2 wheels spiing at the rear not one. :)

Posted

i'm interested in buying an lsd but no idea what ratio i'd want, as in i dont even know what ratio my car has in it...its a 76 factory manual car...

 

is the ratio 1:3.9 or 3.9:1? i'm assuming 1:3.9? so the higher the number the more the engine has to rev for a certain speed? and therefore the better acceleration

 

how much was it to get it to melbourne?

Posted

I don't think these diffs are straight bolt on. I think you have to get a different type of moustache bar?? But check on that one. Cost me maybe $100- to get it to Melbourne and yes a 3.9 means the car will rev slightly higher than a 4.1, 4.6 etc. But it all depends on the type of driving you do. But obviously an LSD is better than an open diff in the wet and on the track or hard driving on the street not to mention burnouts.

Posted

are these mechanical? and 2 way? or ?

 

and wouldn't a 4.1 rev higher than a 3.9 at a particular speed? as the wheels are doing one revolution per 3.9 or 4.1 of the driveshaft? or have i confused the hell outta myself?

Posted

These were long nose clutch type. The good ones. According to Nato the diff might just bolt straight up. But I am still not 100% sure. Yes a 4.1 will make the motor rev marginally higher than a 3.9. Not much in between those two really. I will post his details when I get them tonight. Cheers

Posted

Sorry I just realised my statement about 3.9,4.1 & 4.6 in previous email. I got it around the wrong way. The higher the diff ration the more the car will rev.

Posted

YEP IM SURE,

 

have an earlt 240z at worksho, ( not mine)

has an r200 but still has the straight rear bar behind the diff, but the diff still sits forwared with a slightly shortened tailshaft.

 

So yea it can be done on the early models. late model 240's are also a definate easy swap. no real mods req'd, just front crossmember needs to be used or drilled if you dont have one.!!!

 

yes the long nose mech LSD's are the good ones, but a quaif or helical types are excellent and even slightly better, but justify their cost, and their slightly different handling charachteristics.

 

nato

Posted

OK I got his number if you guys are interested Greg William W- 08 8218-4938 and 0438-834-985. Let me know if anyone take it up. Cheers

Posted

thanks for the details again craig, i've now paid for the 3.9, should have it next week. i'm debating if i should get it opened up etc like you did or just put it straight in?

 

i know i dont really need an lsd but what i remember ages ago reading sprinter stuff is how the biggest change in driving characterists is to put in a lsd, not a more powerful motor, and i figure now's as good a time as any!

Posted

Well done. It will make for safer driving if nothing else. I can put you onto a bloke in Blackburn who works from home. He did my diff for $300- which included 4x$64- plates. You will only really need two extras to get the most out of the diff. I only got 4 because of the power and track work I do. My brother who also does a lot of track work only put 2 in. That will save you $128-. He is pretty reasonable and a nice honest bloke. PM me if you want his details. Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

having never driven a car before with an lsd i'd have to say i'm very impressed with the difference it makes even when i havn't driven it that hard yet. it seems to be alot more responsive out of corners and take a different line though them, like turn sharper and around a different axis? mayb i'm imagining things..

 

anyway i was wondering what these diff's were as in 1 way, 2 way etc, here's the info on the differences between them off wikipedia. i always thought a 2 way ment it would lock the diff when changing down gears, so effectively de-accelerating

 

If there is no additional coupling on over run, the LSD is 1 way. This is a safer LSD, as soon as the driver lifts the throttle, the LSD unlocks and behaves somewhat like a conventional open differential. This is also the best for FWD cars, as it allows the car to turn in on throttle release, instead of ploughing forward. [1]

 

If the LSD increases coupling in the same way regardless of whether the input torque is forwards or reverse, it is a 2 way differential. Some drifters prefer this type as the LSD behaves the same regardless of their erratic throttle input, and lets them keep the wheels spinning all the way through a corner. An inexperienced driver can easily spin the car when using a 2 way LSD if they lift the throttle suddenly, expecting the car to settle like a conventional open differential.

 

If the LSD behaves somewhere in between these two extremes, it is a 1.5 way differential, which is a compromise between sportiness and safety. Generally a 1.5 way creates a stronger lock under acceleration than deceleration.

Posted

Well done Zedevan, glad you got it work so well. It does make a difference in driving and will make your car a lot more manageable and possibly safer. You got a hard to come by diff and the money will certainly increase the value of your car by the equivilent. Enjoy.

Posted

The one time I have found it is a bit hairy with mine is in the wet, less wheel spin, but when it goes, it goes (i have a 2 way though so i cant just back off :P)

Posted

well you can ease off!!!

 

the 2 way only really works in decell when downchanging and allowing the revs to pull the car back!!!

 

its the breakaway torque setting when you back off lets the wheels free up, but when your sideways, its too late, you just have to feed the power on with the front wheels on opp lock, more power if in a slide that is gradual and steady, while correct the rear end, but just blasting the throttle breaks it away even furthar.

 

its all great fun, easier to do than explain.

 

suggest learning the LSD in the wet whilst in a car park, try maintaining a given opp lock and controlling the arc of your slide with the throttle not the steering wheel, once you have this under your belt its all fun, even in the wet whe you dont mean too.!!!

 

nato

Posted

thanks for the tips :D i want to do motokhanas and my skills up, and just hack around in big car parks in the wet lol, but i can't think of any near by...i'm glad i bought it now and not after i have enough power to spin both the wheels around every corner

 

the only issue i had when putting it in which i dont think i've mentioned is the pinion flange i belive its called, the one that connects to the prop/drive shaft was different to the one on the old diff, unfortunately although i noticed they looked a bit different i was in a rush at the time and since i thought it was just bolt in i just put it in and then had to take it back out and change them over, and they are done up dam tight...but atleast i learnt a lesson lol

Posted

I didnt mean it like that Nato, im just too lazy to type indepth about everything I do. I meant that I have found once I gain grip in the rear after just flat dropping off the accelerator, it either understeers or goes back the other way (over correct), wasnt talking about the mechanism itself :P

And I realise that it being a 2 way doesnt effect it that way, but meant that since its a Cusco, its tight as a nuns nasties.

 

All good.

Posted

yea i also checked preload by trying to spin wheels in opp direction whilst on hoist, damn a nuns nasties is an understatement!!! lol

 

SCO, are you running different tyres front & rear???

haha no dramas, i find a similar thing with understeer when tyre combos are reversed, otherwise massive drift oversteer, fun.

 

nato

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