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Posted

Went to Wakefield again on Friday with my LS1 280zx. Lots of cars on the track so didn't get any great runs in before coming up on traffic, had my new rear brakes fitted - was looking to do a 1.05 or better but alas it was not to be. Although I have some footage of me eating almost everything there (think I even have footage of me blasting past a supercharged VE maloo in  a straight line)

Around lunch time my friend was out having a go when he pulled over with a large amount of smoke. Motor wouldn't even turn over once back in the pits. Someone appears to have climbed inside the motor and smashed the bottom end of my dipstick and left metal shavings in there. Also one spark plug re-gapped.

So it appears that I have dropped a rod (yet to be confirmed - I will pull a head off tomorrow).

Then after lunch a mate of mine with a 318 BMW with a toyota 2jz in it also ended up rattling. he also picked up a bearing on number 3 which has resulted in bore damage and head damage.

Then to top it off another mate with a VK with about 400rwkw was playing at Eastern creek yesterday. did 10 laps first session, then went out for the second session and within 3 laps he also has picked up a bearing in the bottom end.

So - we are all in the market for a dry sump set up.

Luckily I have a spare bottom end sitting on a pallet in my workshop so my rebuild shouldn't amount to much more than the oil system we come up with. Was seriously considering a built bottom end but I think the investment may not be worth it.

So in the short term you may see some adverts of me selling of some gear (VX calais with gen 3 with front damage, my spare 280z, my old VS ute, and a car trailer I bought as a spare.)

Will keep you all up to date.

 

 

Posted

Ah racing aint it grand

look on the bright side atleast you were out there having a go

hope it doesn't cost to much

 

spoke to a guy at Winton today and he told me to look up Drive Bathurst, what do you know about it ?

Sounds awesum but expensive

Posted

yes the "Drive Bathurst" sort of got FoSC Easter Bathurst event ( that cost us some $750 to enter and run over the easter of 2008,'09, and '10) kicked out

 

Now they offer a dirive around at some crazy price like $2500 or $1900 or sumink.

 

tir33d, sounds like, and at times of 1.05 to 1.10 you may find the oil in the sumps are not doing what you think they are, or should be, the top end (rocker cover) is getting nice and full, thus leaving the sump kind of empty, along with this the oil foaming/aeration wont help.

At lakeside on the weekend three cars all died, lots of rattle rattle ( two Toranas and a 351 Falcoon)

 

There are things you should be able to do before you resort to the expense and intricacy of dry sumping.

 

Posted

That sucks man. You can modify the original oil pump for a bit more flow. That's what I plan to do, or you could buy a higher performance pump for it. I think a dry sump is a bit over the top. If the brute utes can run around all day with factory pumps and breathing system than it can't be that bad. Maybe you mate just changed down gears too early?

 

If your offloading any performance gear letme know. I've bought a timing chain and rear main for mine to be put on when I pull the engine and gearbox out to change the clutch to an LS7 one. Maybe I could put a cam in too?

Posted

Drive Bathurst is expensive but I hear everyone enjoys, but you must remember that there is people there with more money than ability. It is good because your not racing, but there is cheaper ways to do it. I think it adds up to 7500 if you do the week. Min is about 3500 I think.

Intial research on dry sumps don't come in at under $3500- $4500.

I am unsure if it was age or oil starvation, remembering that the motor had 220k+ on it before a cam and springs and regular 7000rpm. Have a big moroso sump, takes 8.5 ltrs and have never noticed a dip in pressure on cornering. I too am considering just windage traying big time in my pan, but it would be a shame to do another motor. Turn 1 at Eastern creek will kill most engines I hear. I was supposed to be there Sat.

 

That sucks man. You can modify the original oil pump for a bit more flow. That's what I plan to do, or you could buy a higher performance pump for it. I think a dry sump is a bit over the top. If the brute utes can run around all day with factory pumps and breathing system than it can't be that bad. Maybe you mate just changed down gears too early?

 

My oil pump was actually a new VE item with a spring change to increase pressure, mechanic had it sitting there when cam went in, freebie....

Posted

Hmm, car trailer aye.

 

I'll be a lot closer to brissy when I move to Gladstone.

 

Family holiday I say, with some 570Z action at wakefield thrown in.

Posted

One smashed piston, partially intact, rod in bits, one valve kissed piston but valve gear looks ok. I am no CSI but i do have a little crank scoring and one snapped bolt on a rod.

So I am going to pull down the motor of the shelf and transfer bits and buy whats necessary. Gonna have a look at my sump pan and see if I can make it work a little better. I kind of figure that I have had a heap of fun, and shown up alot of classy cars with essentially a $1000 motor. No reason I can't use my other $1000 motor for a while.

So start the removal tomorrow and see how we go.

On another note, my mate with the VK pulled his motor down, looks as though he had a valve seat let go and smash a valve into a piston then travel into the next piston and etc... Ultimately his $14000 motor is worth scrap value. He thinks the heads may have had a little too much work resulting in weaker areas remaining. The heads were prepped by a bigger name drag mob in Syd, maybe not suited to circuit work. He is taking it surprisingly well.

Makes me think my $1000 jobbies might do for a while. 

 

I will take some photos of the trailer when I get a chance, I bought it off ebay for $2k out of melbourne off ebay, I got it home and decided it needed more metal so strengthened it a heap, it is a converted caravan base. Needs brakes replaced and ramps made. I don't even want what I paid for it as i know it still needs some work. Just after I bought this trailer a good friend repayed a big favour and gave me his trailer, this is the trailer I use the other immediately was storaged.

Posted

yep they run out of oil in the turns ,when we run LS in boats they fail within minutes if you don't have a modified sump ;the best standard sump is the ve version with it built in baffle ..and the other problem they have is the relief valve sticking open ,i have replaced so many of them in the last year i would say 40% are not good

Posted

Sounds like my first LS1 4 laps of symons plains and it shut down damage was block smashed number 6 rod and piston smashed crank wrecked 5 bent valves broken timing chain and dipstick knew things were not good when dip stick would not pull out lol

I blamed it on being early Vt motor have since fitted aftermarket windage tray and vy motor seems ok so far but have not done another track day to be sure

I do watch the oil pressure gauge a lot more now

 

good luck getting it going again

mick

Posted

If you're going to do any mods to stop it happening again take heaps of pics and post em up.

Sounds like I might want to mod my sump then too.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Motor is done, new bearings, lifters, stainless valves, 232/232 @110 cam, light port work on heads. ARE 4 stage pump (still waiting on an fittings from usa). Had to modify one engine mount, moved my brake distribution block to wheel arch rather than chassis rail. Fitted a bias valve to rear brakes. Start throwing it back in tomorrow.

 

Posted

Not many lobes left on that one. Motor was a throw away bar the valve springs and sensors.

I actually don't trust myself to start this one, am concerned about oil pressure and purging the dry sump system(if necessary). I will get it all set and go to see my mechanic, he still needs to drop the tune into the car.

MUST be done by the end of nov, we have the speed weekend again at Bathurst and I want to beat all cars (I know there will be a couple of open wheelers which are impossible to beat (they complain that the kink is bumpy at 310km/h +)

Hindsight is beautiful, apparently 7200rpm on pretty well a standard motor doesn't help. Crank also had multi colours > hence the dry sump. Although expensive, it is the insurance necessary to enable a full new motor if this one doesn't live long.

It was almost going to blow up straight away - luckily I put the intake manifold back on the other night when it was quiet, just as I placed it down I heard something, shook the hell out of it and out pops a bit of piston. Ended up with four chuncks about half the size of a fingernail. (when the bearing went on the crank that piston travelled further and engage a valve, this took a small chunk out of the top of the piston but obviously the motor kept going for a minute and the bent valve must of allowed it back into the inlet) Almost blew a new motor straight away.....

Posted

hi mate

before you start the engine ,,,, you will need to turn the dry sump pump,with a drill, i have a drive on the drill that the same as the one on the crank ,and you remove the belt from the crank and put it on the drill and spin the pump till you get all air out and press comes up then put it back on and start it ..

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