Please help!!!!Weak Orange spark, Coil: Condenser, I don't know, frustrated.

[Ducer]

Well, my 1974 260z started and ran a few times since I got it It ran this week actually. I recently pulled the engine out and painted it, and did a some what restoration on the engine bay.

 

 

So recently:

 

1. New NGK plugs

2. New Duralast Wires

3. Coil is Old looking and it has signs of being 5-10 years old. (Have a newer coil will change soon)

4. Cap and Rotor seems okay, but probably old (Will change soon)

 

Issue:

 

1. Didn't want to start. It tries and I can hear it fire on a cylinder or two

2. I had spark jumping through the wire and randomness.  (I believe it was running  12v through the coil thus the Jumps)

 

3. NOW I have the wiring set as pictured below, and the "extra Black/White wire is not in use) Some sparks at the spark plugs seem "Stronger" some are Faint and weak.

Orange / Weak spark Overall. Some stronger, some very weak.

 

Please see the picture below and let me know "WHERE Does the extra "BLACK/ WIRE GO TO?" (i assume to the Positive of the coil? AND if my wiring looks correct.  The previous owner did a lot of "mikey mouse" wiring, and I've had to clean it up as much as I can, and FSM and Haynes etc, don't seem to have "condenser" and other things.

 

 

Correct? Wrong? Please Let me know. THANKS!

[RB30X]

I don't know much about anything and I'm sure someone will have more info but have you tried putting your voltage straight into the coil rather than going through all the other stuff.

[Sirpent]

Hi

 

I checked all the wiring diagrams I have and couldnt see anything with the color codes you have posted

 

BUT !

 

I did find this on the net for a 1974 260Z

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/74_260z_manual_wire.gif

 

Hope it helps

 

 

[Zedman240®]

All the ballast resistor setups i have seen so far have only two connections and the condenser is on the wrong terminal of the coil. Does the blue wire go back to the distributor?

[Ducer]

So the Condenser with Small Blue wire goes to the "POSITIVE" of COIL.

 

 

HERE IS WHAT I HAVE:

 

Coming in there are 3 wires coming in: 4 wires out.

BLACK/GREEN IS NO USE: SINCE IT NEVER CAME IN.

BLACK/BLUE IS PROBABLY NO USE, A/C?

 

GREEN/RED AND GREEN/WHITE FROM THE FSM IT IS CORRECT TO THE DIZZY. GOT THAT.

 

THERE IS ANOTHER BLACK/WHITE LEAD BRANCHING OFF THE MAIN BLACK/WHITE WIRE, WHERE DOES IT GO TO? LOOKS LIKE FACTORY BRANCHED OFF.

 

So it should look like this?

 

[Ducer]

Figured it out. The timing was about 20* off.  I had my friend who is the master Nissan Mechanic, did the timing completely. He had removed the oil pump and set it.

 

Before,  the TDC dizzy rotor pointed in between #1 #4, and I was perplexed, and thought that it's not a big deal.

 

He had to remove the oil pump and reinserted so that the dizzy rotor was at true #1.

 

The car started before, but seemed off,  NOW, it's perfect all 6 are firing and sounds like a monster. Thanks for the help.  Now I have to deal with the + lead going to the coil.

 

When the car is on the "ON" position, I get 12v to the coil, when I am cranking, it goes to almost  1 volt.  Is this normal?

 

 

[Zedman240®]

Nope, it should be around 12V while cranking and then around 9V while the engine is running. The ballast resistor lowers the voltage to the coil while the engine is running. Means you get a stronger spark while starting and normal spark while driving.

[Ducer]

Oh, awesome, I understand. Thank you very much.

 

I'll check it tomorrow see if I get 12v cranking and 9v at idle.

Im just so happy the car starts and runs.  It started up all day today and idles perfectly as well, so darn happy.

 

Finally I can move on to electric fans, body work, transmission, etc. Thanks again.

 

[Scoota G]

Have you considered converting to Electronic Distributor and ditching the ballist resistor?

[Ducer]

Yes, I guess the 280zx dizzy swap will be the next mod in the near future. at the moment, the car runs great, so I am not touching anything.

 

Thanks.

[Wayne G]

There should be an additional wire to the positive coil terminal supplying 12v when engine is cranking only. This wire usually runs from a terminal on the starter motor(there are a few ways of doing it) and helps with starting issues however, if the car starts and runs nice, leave it alone.