Hi New to the forum, in desperate HELP in MELBOURNE.

[WogsRus]

Hi Guys

 

Well a new ZZZZZ owner from Tassie. I have been into old school classic cars for some time, owning two DR30 skylines and some late 80's ZX series zed's.

 

Now after some 10 years, i purchased myself a 260Z 2+2. Why? it was $1300 with only 56000km on the clock, second owner. Whist i know many issues the car has, the rust is pretty well contained, . Body is straight and has signs of repair and previous rust removal. Main damage to rear quarter panel need a lot of attention as it appear the car had a small dent which was simply bogged up. Body work no problems

 

The car was purchased sight unseen and had been sitting around for about 8 years or so. The issue i have is that water had accumulated in the foot wells and hay presto we have rust.

 

I have not actually seen the car in the flesh yet, picking her up in two weeks.

 

I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the main difference is in floor pans form a 2 setter to a 2+2 setter.?

 

The car was purchase with the ad stating that the car ran, BUT the lady has not been able to sucsesfully make it run.

 

Being 500kms away in Hobart i was wondering if a Z enthusiast would be so kind as to go and see the car, located in East Brunswick and do a diagnosis as to what is missing, it's either fuel or electrics or noth.

 

I am happy to pay, say $100 for someone to look at it for me.

 

If anyone out there could, please drop me an email on jankm@semf.com.au

 

Thanks and i can't wait to do some work.

[Sirpent]

Im not to far away and could drop in for you.

 

Give me a call after 9.00 am on 0419 556 286

 

Cheers

 

John

[WogsRus]

Thanks John

 

That is great i will call you this morning then after 9 if that is ok. I have the address of the car and so forth and the lady will be there some time today however i don't expect you to go straight away too have a look or anything. I am picking the car up on the 17th, well was suppose to, i only need to drive it onto the ferry at Melbourne wharf, after that i don't care.

 

I don't suppose you have anyone with a tow truck or a car and a car trailer so if worse comes to worse i can trailer her down to the wharf?

 

If you have some free time please have a look. Otherwise i will call a freight company to transfer the car to tassie.

 

It just means i should have waited to get my tickets as now i will forfeit these too. Bugga.

[Sirpent]

You can call now, forgot about day light savings, it's 8.30 now, will be able to go down today, no cost to you buddy, but you owe me one.

 

Cheers

 

John

[WogsRus]

Thanks Mate, much appreciated can't wait to hear from you soon

[Sirpent]

All's well, but maybe you could make a donation to the site after I deliver the news about your new born?

[WogsRus]

sounds like a plan, i will do that instead, just need to read how.

 

TA

[Lynton]

I don't think I would take too much notice of the kilometers traveled as the K reading will only go upto 99,999kms then back to zero again!! It looks as though you maybe catching it just before it becomes another basket case, thank god another car is being saved instread of being parted out or going to the bone yard?

Does this car have a sun roof or just some reflection  on the photo I am picking up??

The rust on the floor is probably the heater lines have self imploded and sat wet under the carpet for obviously quite some time, poddibly why it does not continue to run maybe it has a blown headgasket as well???

Good luck a good buy all the same if you can carry out the work. Lynton

[WogsRus]

well john is looking at the car today for me. If i can get it to the gate and the shipping company is none the wiser and I can push the car on at no extra cost, so who in vic has a car and a car trailer to get me to the port?

 

Otherwise it is $940 door to door freight with a shipping company.

 

Ta

 

[Sirpent]

well john is looking at the car today for me. If i can get it to the gate and the shipping company is none the wiser and I can push the car on at no extra cost, so who in vic has a car and a car trailer to get me to the port?

 

Otherwise it is $940 door to door freight with a shipping company.

 

Ta

 

Well good news and bad news after 1+ hours of toiling with the beast, good news got it started, fuel in the car had turned to turps it was so old, cleaned all electrical points, rotor, cap and checked all the plugs, purged some of the old fuel from the lines, the physically held the chokes in place while the owner kicked in the gutts for the better half of 2 minutes straight helping it along with jumper leads off my car.

 

By the way, before I forget dont forget to tighten the fuel line clamps to the carbs, I may have forgotten to tighten them.

 

Bad news, I wont go into the body, no brakes apart from hand brake, the resivoirs for the front and rears are bone dry, and there is nothing but a paste left at the bottom of each, the started is tempramental and needs some good taps with a wrench to get the car to kick over, make sure you top up the clutch fluid as its at the bare minimal level.

 

Lights and electricals seem OK, heter hoses have been totally bi-passed at the bulkhead and re-routed, so no heater, hence no dim-sting, so hope it not a rainy day in Melbourne otherwise windos open all the way.

 

Mechanically no noise from the motor, it was running pretty sweet once I got it to start up, radiator water is nice clean and green, think it must have been bone dry and the owner topped it up, no signes of moisture in the oil, so I'd say the head is intact.

 

Runs rich as can be seen from the black smoke coming from the pipes, no signs of any blue grey smoke at idle, so Id say ring gear is good.

 

Its running round top SU's not the traditional flat top Hitachi's, but they do need some oil, chikes are not operating from the cable, hence the need to hold them open at start up from cold, would suggest you bring some plastic ties with you if you are starting it yourself on the day and need to keep them open while cranking.

 

"IT LIVES", but it will be a bit of a ride using the handbrake all the way to the docks.

 

Cheers

 

John

[WogsRus]

Thanks John.

 

Yeah the body well it's a rust bucket, needs a lot of work for it i knew that, just how much is perhaps beyond me a little but hay live and learn.

 

Spoken with a great guy here in tas, he has no problems fabricating sills and alike and installing them.

 

Basically, mechanics should be ok, the rest is cactus.

 

What do you think John, should one persevere whit the body seeing as i have access to anything i wan and welding ect, or a new shell.

 

I have  alot of time and some money it's a long term project.

 

I assume if the heater has been bypassed it is probably shot?

 

HUMM all my cars have been fuel injected so no idea about oil in the carburetors, any pointer as to what to do?

 

How BAD was the floor? i know the driver has been repaired but what about the passanger?

 

What about the rear window seal and so forth?

 

ANYHOW a big hurray to john, he has been a great help and i CAN STRONGLY recommend him for anyone.

 

 

 

 

[Sirpent]

Thanks John.

 

Yeah the body well it's a rust bucket, needs a lot of work for it i knew that, just how much is perhaps beyond me a little but hay live and learn.

 

Spoken with a great guy here in tas, he has no problems fabricating sills and alike and installing them.

 

Basically, mechanics should be ok, the rest is cactus.

 

What do you think John, should one persevere whit the body seeing as i have access to anything i wan and welding ect, or a new shell.

 

I have  alot of time and some money it's a long term project.

 

I assume if the heater has been bypassed it is probably shot?

 

HUMM all my cars have been fuel injected so no idea about oil in the carburetors, any pointer as to what to do?

 

How BAD was the floor? i know the driver has been repaired but what about the passanger?

 

What about the rear window seal and so forth?

 

ANYHOW a big hurray to john, he has been a great help and i CAN STRONGLY recommend him for anyone.

 

Buddy,

 

When you get the car and strip parts of it back you will see how far and how bad it is, at the moment everything is speculation, but the worst parts that I saw in order of worst to not so bad are

 

#1 Inner fire wall / plennum chamber weld seam is shot and rusted out in a number of places, this will need some major cutting and grafting.

 

#2 Battery mount area in swiss cheese, but this could be an easy fix, single but curved panel replacement reqyuired.

 

#3 Passanger side sill, but if you have a guy who can fab this then not so bad considering the dog legs look OK on the outside.

 

#4 Floor pans passanger area's, drivers side has had some Frankenstinian work done, hard to tell exactly to what extent and I'd say the passanger side would be as bad.

 

$5 Drivers side rear quater panel looks like it has more plastic in it than Michael Jackson did.

 

#6, The sunroof is an aftermarket one and not the prettiest of things.

 

#7 Only slight rust, as far as I can see on the upper Tail lamp panel on the passanger side.

 

#8 Rear tail gate glass area and structure including front glass area look intact. only slight hint of a few rust spots.

 

#9 It has aircon, so that means if the core is cactus as I suspect then you will need to find a replacement not sure how hard this will be.

 

The carbs are definately round top 240Z type HJG46W units, and use SAE-20 oil, I havnt been around these before but Im sure someone on the forum can tell you to what level they need to be topped up to.

 

I'm sorry to be the barer of bad news, yes anything is repairable, but in the end you need to decide to what extent you want to go.

 

Cheers

 

John 

[WogsRus]

Buddy,

 

When you get the car and strip parts of it back you will see how far and how bad it is, at the moment everything is speculation, but the worst parts that I saw in order of worst to not so bad are

 

#1 Inner fire wall / plennum chamber weld seam is shot and rusted out in a number of places, this will need some major cutting and grafting.

 

#2 Battery mount area in swiss cheese, but this could be an easy fix, single but curved panel replacement reqyuired.

 

#3 Passanger side sill, but if you have a guy who can fab this then not so bad considering the dog legs look OK on the outside.

 

#4 Floor pans passanger area's, drivers side has had some Frankenstinian work done, hard to tell exactly to what extent and I'd say the passanger side would be as bad.

 

$5 Drivers side rear quater panel looks like it has more plastic in it than Michael Jackson did.

 

#6, The sunroof is an aftermarket one and not the prettiest of things.

 

#7 Only slight rust, as far as I can see on the upper Tail lamp panel on the passanger side.

 

#8 Rear tail gate glass area and structure including front glass area look intact. only slight hint of a few rust spots.

 

#9 It has aircon, so that means if the core is cactus as I suspect then you will need to find a replacement not sure how hard this will be.

 

The carbs are definately round top 240Z type HJG46W units, and use SAE-20 oil, I havnt been around these before but Im sure someone on the forum can tell you to what level they need to be topped up to.

 

I'm sorry to be the barer of bad news, yes anything is repairable, but in the end you need to decide to what extent you want to go.

 

Cheers

 

John

 

Where is the fire wall area you are referring to? I am not sure where this is at all, firewall i get but plenum chamber?

 

I knew the battery was toast, that is a given.

 

The remainder i can fix, the sun roof would remain but a new one in place i think, unless i decide to cut the roof out and a new panel installed.

 

In relation to underside, did you get a chance to see if the chassis rails look ok?

 

I guess if i had to part it out i would be able to get my money back over time.

 

SO the next question is, does anyone have a 2+2 seater body in GOOD condition lying around, where does one normally find these things? Even one for parts would be good.

 

Getting one from the mainland is had as it costs and arm and a leg to do.

 

Hay i can get the mechanicals all soughted and then find a good body or a donor car.

 

Thanks again for your help you have gone beyond what i expected.

 

So what does the oil in the carburetor do? as long as i can drive it through the gates, she will be fine. I will actually bring the gear to flush the break cylinder and see if i can reinstate the breaks to some extent, then see if i can rig up a choke thing somehow.

 

Any chance we could meet when i come over to pick the car up?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xa1973]

 

 

Might be a good idea to pick yourself up a manual before you come over and read up a bit, or take a good look around the various sections / posts on here, youll find all the questions you'll be looking for answers to, have been covered ..

 

 

[stevo_gj]

So what does the oil in the carburetor do?

 

My understanding is that it flattens out the speed at which the piston/needle assembly rises during acceleration. I don't think its too critical to the running of the engine that you have the exact right amount of oil in there.

[WogsRus]

Manual is on the way, i have the online hays manual already so need to read up a bit.

 

It will be interesting how bad it is once i strip it down

 

Thanks guys

[Sirpent]

Hi Buddy,

 

See some of the guys are responding already, OK the wiper assy sits under the wiper scutle inside a plenum chamber this chamber also has the duct work in it that leads to the inner passanger area where the heater fan is, the sheet metal of this chamber is spot welded where the chamber intersects with the fire wall and was sealed with a bead of sealer from the factory, unfortunately it becomes one big swimming pool although it has drainage pipes at each corner that drain water away from the area and down the side of each skirt.

 

Problem is that if they become blocked with leafs etc the water dosnt drain away and eventually the water breaks down the seal which leads to 2 things, water in the passanger area which causes the floor to rust and rust at the spot welded areas which causes rusting of both the plenum and fire wall, hey presto, therefore the flloor rust inside the vehicle.

 

The carbs may need a drop of oil as when I revved the motor up their was a definate flat spot before it picked up revs, unless I am mistaken this is due to the SU's internals not reacting quickly enough.

 

When are you down to pick up the car?

 

If I am around you are more than welcome to come around as see my Zed and I can take you through some aspects of what you are in for and see if I can lend a hand time permitting.

 

Cheers

 

John   

[stevo_gj]

Hey Sirpent, just with the oil in the carbs. Adding oil can only slow down the speed at which the carbs react, so while adding some oil may be beneficial it won't be because it speeds up the reaction.

 

My understanding is that the oil acts like a viscous damper, so the carbs will be more responsive if you use a lighter oil or no oil at all.

[WogsRus]

Hi Buddy,

 

See some of the guys are responding already, OK the wiper assy sits under the wiper scutle inside a plenum chamber this chamber also has the duct work in it that leads to the inner passanger area where the heater fan is, the sheet metal of this chamber is spot welded where the chamber intersects with the fire wall and was sealed with a bead of sealer from the factory, unfortunately it becomes one big swimming pool although it has drainage pipes at each corner that drain water away from the area and down the side of each skirt.

 

Problem is that if they become blocked with leafs etc the water dosnt drain away and eventually the water breaks down the seal which leads to 2 things, water in the passanger area which causes the floor to rust and rust at the spot welded areas which causes rusting of both the plenum and fire wall, hey presto, therefore the flloor rust inside the vehicle.

 

The carbs may need a drop of oil as when I revved the motor up their was a definate flat spot before it picked up revs, unless I am mistaken this is due to the SU's internals not reacting quickly enough.

 

When are you down to pick up the car?

 

If I am around you are more than welcome to come around as see my Zed and I can take you through some aspects of what you are in for and see if I can lend a hand time permitting.

 

Cheers

 

John 

 

Thanks John

 

Arvie in Melbourne on the 17th, get the car running, tow her on a flat bed to the port, drive her onto the boat that night and arrive back in tassie on the  18th.

 

As i have no car i would catch a taxy in and so forth so we will have to catch up.

 

Thanks again for all your help, greatly appreciated.

 

Spoke with my mate who goes to Japan once a month to import cars, he has found some 2+2 for less the 2K in grade 4B condition, essentially excellent.

 

I will post pics when i have them

[Sirpent]

1st, Stevo you are right, but I just had the feeling that the internals of the Depression chamber where clagged up and the jet needle / piston were sticking, I never had much to do with SU's as I turfed my flat tops and got triple 45's not long after I originally got my Zed back in 83/84.

 

Ok Maicek, first we need to give you a good forum nic name, so I Christan you MACE, figure there is going to be a lot of macing and malleting going on in your garage restoration parlour in the months to come.

 

I will have to check with the good lady wife but if I can I could pick you up at the airport and run you into East Brunswick to where the car is, you can pop by and see my ZED first, but as I said, have to be nice to her for the next week, I mean confur with her first.........LOL

 

Cheers

 

John

[WogsRus]

Hi John

 

I will bring some light oil, i think in the manual it states 20-30 or something like that.

 

My official nick is Wog, i got it here when i arrived from Europe. My brother and i went to the same school and were called the wog brothers, hence, Wogs R Us.

 

It would  be great if you can pick me up, even happy to pay for fuel and so forth. It would be great to have an extra hand to get the Z running enough for what i need.

 

This is what i need to do i think.

 

1) Get the choke fixed, so i can start it by myself. This might involve some hand cables. LOL.

 

2) John, do you think it is possible to re-instate the brakes. Is the cylinders completely dry or moist. If they are moist i should be able to flush the line enough for some brake pedal. The whole brake system will be new anyway.

 

3) Pull starter motor out, i might have a new one redy to go, this is not to much of an issue as i think i can get away with having to persuaide it.

 

Anyhow, any help or lift or just company would be greatly appriciated.

 

In Terms of body, I don't suppose you got a chance to look at the rails, how bad are the main structural component. Replacing things like floors and main rails is easy, especially as the front half is the same as a 2 seater.

 

Battery tray will be ok, got a good fabricator. The firewall will be interesting, i think this will be a GENUINE part.

 

I think the doors are ok and can be brought back. Bonnet and alike as well.

 

Not sure about the boot, did you get a chance to have a look?

 

Anyhow if you have any more details about my impending money pit, let me know.

 

Once the car is running, i will get it delivered on a flat bed to the port and then drive onto the boat. Save any hustles on route to the port.

 

Thanks

[Zeddophile]

Hey Sirpent, just with the oil in the carbs. Adding oil can only slow down the speed at which the carbs react, so while adding some oil may be beneficial it won't be because it speeds up the reaction.

 

My understanding is that the oil acts like a viscous damper, so the carbs will be more responsive if you use a lighter oil or no oil at all.

 

You are correct in what you say, but the flipside of this is (speaking with strombergs here, but principles should be similar) if there is no oil at all, there is no damping effect on the movement inside the carby, and when you give it a rev from a high vacuum condition (idle), the rapid change in manifold pressure can bounce the piston further than it needs to go, causing to much fuel to go into the motor.

 

For example, on carby rover v8s with the strombergs, if one carby loses its oil, it presents as a distinct flutter/miss on acceleration.  I remember a mate of mine bought a carby range rover, and called me up saying its got a miss, and his boss wanted to change the ignition system and/or pull the heads.  "DON'T touch anything!" Turned up down there, had a listen, then told him to get me some ATF.  "What?"  Poured it into the carby dashpot, revved up smooth and clean.  He couldn't believe it.

[chris240]

I nominate John for a logie or an oscar ....beer maybe 

legendary help !!

[Sirpent]

I nominate John for a logie or an oscar ....beer maybe 

legendary help !!

 

Who me?