"common" fuse keeps blowing, requesting information

[fufu]

Hi guys,

 

My "common" fuse in the inner cabin keeps blowing, just requesting information on what items would be connected to this fuse?

 

Some more information: The fuse blows the moment the battery is connected up.

 

Would dusty wiring cause this? As I've had the wire exposed during the restoration process.

 

Results of the blow, doesn't let me do anything really with the car. Doesn't start, doesn't crank, no rear brake lights. The only thing i believe that works is... the engine lamp.

 

Some extra information: I've had all bulbs changed with corresponding designs. Also had the H4 bulbs done but... the switch is off, so i believe this isn't the problem.

 

I'll try dusting it all up from tip to end with a brush tomorrow hoping it might be the dust. Also a little bit of sand paper to clean up a bit of the rusty circuits.

 

 

[Zedman240®]

Fu, I think that "common" fuse is that main white/red stripe wire that comes from the alternator and supplies power to almost everything. You must have a dead short somewhere along from the alternator, amp gauge or under the dash. Best way to tackle it is a process of elimination. Once I remember a faulty amp gauge gave me a real headache!! It was open circuit from memory, ie wouldn't give power to anything.

[fufu]

Thanks Dimitri,

 

Yea its the big cable with the white and red.

 

My amp gauge is faulty, incorrect reading? or there's no power going to the unit because the fuel level indicator didn't work either, since day 1. However the car worked prior to dropping it off at the panel beaters. I think there's a lot of dust in the alternator because... the hood has been opened since day 1. To be honest it looks like the alternator bought a ski jacket, a white jacket... a thick layer of dust. It's specifically damp dust too.

[Zedman240®]

Has anyone played with the wiring under the dash? Check for any pinched cables under anything that has been removed and then bolted back on. A wire may be caught underneath and shorting to ground. It's hard to diagnose through the net!

[fufu]

ok, did a lot of cleaning today to the car. Cleaned all the ground points, cleaned all the sockets for the wiring harness, a lot were clogged with dirt and dust. Cleaned the alternator points and all electrical points in the engine bay. Cleaned that small "mini starter" thing, above the starter where the power goes through.

 

Result... still the same... still blows that "common" fuse. I guess i'll call the auto-electrician tomorrow, after i try changing the amp gauge.

[Mr240z]

fufu had the same problem about a year ago .the fuel gauge didnt work same as amp gauge.pulled it out the wires going to the amp gauge had burnt but not bad.so i brought a gauge of ebay from a 260z ,fuel gauge perfect ,worked, but the amp was different so i just bolted the 2 wires together and perfect no more blowing fuses just tape the wires really good.its all good now but no amp gauge

hope this helps        mr240z pauly

[fufu]

That's a definate good point for me to look at.

 

Problem is i have a 240z gauge and i also have a spare 260z gauge. Is this the same scenario as you?

 

The big white and red cable won't have a spot free as well. I think this is what your refering too.

 

So just find a way to bolt them together. I'll try temporary GAFFA TAPE (god's miracle bandage for cars).

 

*EDIT* i just read your personal desc and it says 240z lol... that answers my dilemma as its exactly the same problem then.

I'll have a shot at it tomorrow. Fingers crossed 

God damn the devil... why does it have to be a pain in the arse

 

Also a quick question to paul, is everything plug and play? as in if i remove the cables from the 240z fuel/amp gauge and transplant them in the same position to the volt/fuel 260z gauge, that would work right?

 

I think its just 3 cables. Then slam the 2 white/red cables together and use a bolt and nut to secure it and some duct tape.

 

I also found this writeup on how to get the volt metre to work with the amp wiring in the 240z. However the writeup was written with an alternator upgrade.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106163&highlight=amp+volt+conversion

 

Essentially the steps are: connect the white/red big cable to the black - red sleeved cabled at the back of the volt metre, the other black cable goes to a grounding point. That's it.

[fufu]

Utter failure today.

 

Still popping fuses.

 

However i think its my old rusty alternator thats the culprit.

 

Does anyone know how i can test it?  The auto-electrician guy said... i should try turning the car on without having the white/red cable plugged into the back of the alternator. So i'm thinking about giving that a go tomorrow. Upon closer inspection, the alternator has seen better days. A alternator point was really corroded upon further inspection, hidden away by the protector cap.

 

On the other hand i did do the volt/fuel gauge conversion... i don't know if it works yet... its pretty much a straight swap using the existing harness. I also did the temp/pressure gauge, exact same process, using the same existing harness.

 

Tomorrow i'll test the alternator and also install a later model clock, see if its a straight swap like the other two gauges.

 

*EDIT* some more information about the problem i'm facing...

When i unplug the... big white/red cable it still pops. However if i unplug the corresponding "common fuse" opposite cable to that of the white/red which is the black cable... it doesn't pop the fuse, upon i connect the battery.

 

This black cable runs out towards the engine bay... as I've tried disconnecting it at where the inner dash harness meets the engine harness. Once again this... doesn't pop the fuse. Following this black cable(really thick/big) out to the engine bay leads me to many places.

 

[fufu]

Hi guys,

 

has anyone got a picture of their battery? just a picture with the battery connected up in the engine bay.

 

I've got the 2 (1 starter, 1 ground) connected up to the negative and I've also got the thick fusible link hooked up to the positive. Is this correct?

 

I posted this problem on the web and it appears i may have my battery hooked up the wrong way around according to them.

 

If anyone could email their pics to me at this email address: fuscanonline@hotmail.com

 

much appreciated.

 

*Edit* it could be like my rear disc conversion, simplest things could solve the problem. In the rear disc conversion the calipers were on opposite sides making the nipple at the bottom.

[LC260z]

fufu, if your working on your car at the p.beaters your wecome to pop the hood on my car and have a look. luis

[fufu]

Cheers, Luis

 

Do you know they've moved factories? I have to go to the new factory every time and grab the key and drive back to their old factory to work on the car.

 

 

 

[LC260z]

been flat out with work lately havnt had a chane to get down there, dose my car look finished? luis. if i get a chance ill go tomorrow. when are you going next?

[fufu]

been flat out with work lately havnt had a chane to get down there, dose my car look finished? luis. if i get a chance ill go tomorrow. when are you going next?

 

I won't be going there anytime soon, kinda giving the gal (the Zed) a little space since its giving me the silent treatment  . They are calling a auto-electrician so when i get the details on when its booked in i'll let you know. Because more then likely they'll be calling me to grab the keys and open the old factory up for the auto-electrician.

 

Your car looks to be complete. Except the flares haven't been done. Your colour looks a bit funny under low light. Did you give them a colour code to do it by? I've yet to see the car under proper lighting.

 

 

 

[zedevan]

luis (or fufu), would u have any photo's of the mini colour on your car? I'm quite keen to see it as am thinking it would look quite cool, and am thinking of painting car car the colour of the one in my display pic, which also looks kinda weird under certain light.

[RBZ 260]

if u havent fixed your electrical problem get a multimeter (digital prob easier to understand) set it to ohm range ie low and on Buzz (continuity) make sure your power is disconnected. to test if buzz is working short the two multimeter leads together and check the number it shows. should be very close to 0. with the buzzer going off.

 

 

on car

one lead of the multimeter to chassis of the car.make sure it goes to the metal.

the other lead to that wire white red wire. if no shorts it will read "OL" or a very high number

 

if its shorted to chassis it will buzz and read similar to the number u had whenb the leads were shorted out.

 

to me looks like one of the main power cable has been shorted out. ie prob they forgot where the wire went ie to the fuse box or batery terminal but they bolted it to the chasis.

 

hope it helps.

 

 

[fufu]

luis (or fufu), would u have any photo's of the mini colour on your car? I'm quite keen to see it as am thinking it would look quite cool, and am thinking of painting car car the colour of the one in my display pic, which also looks kinda weird under certain light.

 

Hi Zedevan,

 

sorry can you clarify "mini colour". Sorry i'm not to technical on the terminology.

 

if u havent fixed your electrical problem get a multimeter (digital prob easier to understand) set it to ohm range ie low and on Buzz (continuity) make sure your power is disconnected. to test if buzz is working short the two multimeter leads together and check the number it shows. should be very close to 0. with the buzzer going off.

 

 

on car

one lead of the multimeter to chassis of the car.make sure it goes to the metal.

the other lead to that wire white red wire. if no shorts it will read "OL" or a very high number

 

if its shorted to chassis it will buzz and read similar to the number u had whenb the leads were shorted out.

 

to me looks like one of the main power cable has been shorted out. ie prob they forgot where the wire went ie to the fuse box or batery terminal but they bolted it to the chasis.

 

hope it helps.

 

 

 

Will try that out tomorrow. Cheers. Any advise given now is a stab for me to try. I've run out of ideas and am waiting on a friend whose currently in Japan to get back within the next 2 weeks to do the auto-electrician for me.

 

Fu