Query On Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Length

[gilltech]

Have just fitted a new clutch slave cylinder. The old cylinder was cast-iron and had rusted solid.

The new cylinder is a Protex alloy and comes assembled complete except for no pushrod, which OK seems to be the norm.

But re-using the push-rod from the old cylinder it just seems too short at 67mm tip to tip, as the internals go right to the limit of spilling out.

Anyone got one handy they could measure for me please?

TIA

 

[Andrew_L26]

Have just fitted a new clutch slave cylinder. The old cylinder was cast-iron and had rusted solid.

The new cylinder is a Protex alloy and comes assembled complete except for no pushrod, which OK seems to be the norm.

But re-using the push-rod from the old cylinder it just seems too short at 67mm tip to tip, as the internals go right to the limit of spilling out.

Anyone got one handy they could measure for me please?

TIA

Hey mate, What seems to work perfectly is the threaded part of a Dynabolt. If you take your slave down to bunnings you should find a size that fits in there perfectly. The cone on the end of the dynabolt also sits beautifully inside the slave. Once you've got it sitting in there bolt up the slave and take out most of the slack from the fork (with the throw out bearing just touching the clutch cover. Then just mark the dynabolt and take it out, cut it about 1mm shorter than your mark. The dynabolts are only like 30c each so might pay off to grab a few. Another alternative is to drill a hole in the fork and put a nut on either side with the dynabolt running through it, then you can adjust it to get the pedal feel you want.

 

Andrew

[gilltech]

Thanks for the Dynabolt idea, a simple solution, hadn't thought of that one! Adjustable too.

I think I need the rod to be about 5-6mm longer, but for the life of me I can't figure out what has changed & why.

Must get on to it. Much appreciated your reply.

Edited May 28, 2018 by gilltech