grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) looking for something like these if anyone has a set in Oz please let me know. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Edited September 14, 2015 by grimlynsan Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 14, 2015 Posted September 14, 2015 Thread bump. For those that require longer tie-rods when running increased camber, these tie-rod extenders are now available from SWM at a very reasonable price: They are a direct bolt in with no modifications. They have a HEAP of adjustment and they simply take the (RoadSafe brand) TE437L & TE437R ball joint. Quote
grimlynsan Posted September 16, 2015 Author Posted September 16, 2015 Hey Lurch, thanks for the recommendation. I contacted SWM (mentioning your referral of course!) and they have them for about $200 delivered express. But these are inner tie rods not outer tie rods, right? I am trying to reduce my bump steer, so these won't really work for that will they? Is that correct? Lee Quote
dat2kman Posted September 16, 2015 Posted September 16, 2015 The SWM items are simply rack end extensions, so that when you use adjstable LCA's and decde to screw on rdiculous amounts of camber, the standard rack ends are not into the tie rods by two or three turns f thread! No, they are not bump steer spacers. Those are a seperate item, correct geometry dictates that the steering arms should be at same angle, and as close to centres of pivot points of the inner and outer points f the LCA's. By lfting the outer end of the tie rod you will alter these relations between the pivot centres. Assemble a strut without the spring, establish static ride height, then move hub through bump/rebound, and carefully meadure what amount f toe in/toe out occurs at varios stages of up/down movement, then apply left/right steering input, measure same again. That indicates the degree of steer induced due to bump. Then alter one adjstemnt point, and go through all steps, checking what now ccurs. That is how you correct bump steer. Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 16, 2015 Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) . Edited September 16, 2015 by Lurch ™ Quote
dat2kman Posted September 16, 2015 Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) edited, To keep on topic,,, Edited September 16, 2015 by dat2kman Quote
C.A.R. Posted September 16, 2015 Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Wasn't directed at you, Willy... /Edited to remove confusion. Edited September 16, 2015 by Lurch ™ Quote
grimlynsan Posted September 16, 2015 Author Posted September 16, 2015 I already have the adjustable LCAs and caster rods ready to install. I am taking it to the mchanic to have him instal and align. The only other thing I need to get is some kind of adjustable outer tie rod end so that my excessively lowered car with large wheels will drive betterer. It seems like the T3 one is better at doing this because I can't see how the SW one would reduce bumpsteer. I can't afford both either. Plus the T3 one is RED :-) Also I don't think they would be compatible with each other since the T3 one requires drilling. Quote
grimlynsan Posted September 16, 2015 Author Posted September 16, 2015 All that said I am about to hit the 'buy' button on these T3 ones so if anyone has a set in Oz (or some other thing that will do the same job) and want to part with them, now is the time to let me know. Thanks, Lee Quote
dat2kman Posted September 16, 2015 Posted September 16, 2015 I've just fitted a fully adjustable AZC front and rear to a 240Z, its still here, about to get triples on a Kameari mani, with matching SWM headers. I dont like the AZC setup, it needs to be partial dropped for adjusting. Have kept front camber lw so that the rack ends engage into toe rods very well. As far as bump steer, car s not excessively low, but still plenty low enogh, of checking if it exhibits toe change on bump up from static, or droop down, in various pisitions of lock, there is no noticeable change at up to 50mm plus or minus, from static ride height, Above 50mm bump, with lock on, there is some toe change, but it is so minor, it is not f concern. Just get the T3 stuff, its good, as long as they are the lnger units to comply with the extended LCA's you have. The steering arms will require drilling to fit their rod ends, if you decide to revert back to normal tie rods, you'll need to fit standard steering arms. Quote
grimlynsan Posted September 21, 2015 Author Posted September 21, 2015 Thanks for your replies gents. I've now bought the T3 units and if I need longer rack ends/inner tie rods I will reach out to SWM. Assume they wont be needed since I'm not running crazy camber. Can't wait till these bad boys arrive! Quote
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