George Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 I'm just curious how components like the fuel pump and master cylinders were originally finished for corrosion resistance. Are they grey cast iron or cast alloy? If I sandblast them how can I protect them from corrosion? I rang some electroplaters today and some of them said they don't do cast iron as it's difficult to plate. Most only do zinc plating which is a bright finish where these components look like they were finished with a dull look. How can I replicate that finish with today's plating standards? Quote
PeterAllen Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 George. They need to be polished, not plated. Bit on a trip for us but I use Adept Metal Polishing at Wetherill Park. Quote
George Posted November 17, 2014 Author Posted November 17, 2014 Thanks Pete. Does that mean they are grey cast iron with inherent anti corrosion properties? Quote
PeterAllen Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 As I don't use Nissan M/Cs or fuel pump I can't tell what they are made from. My experience with cars of that period would suggest the M/Cs are aluminium and the fuel pump is probably a die-cast alloy. When their surface reacts with air it forms an oxidizing layer which seals the material from further oxygen attack, unlike pure steel where the oxidizing layer (rust) is porous and allows for a continuing attack - not that we S30 owners need any further knowledge of that. Quote
1600dave Posted November 17, 2014 Posted November 17, 2014 Cast or die-cast alloy / aluminium. They would have had no surface finish from the factory, just gradually "dulled" over time as the surface oxidised. Nissan only wanted them to look sexy on the new car lot. To get that "new car" look, google bead blasting, soda blasting, water vapour blasting, etc. Quote
George Posted November 17, 2014 Author Posted November 17, 2014 I have a sandblaster and have cleaned one of them. It looks dull which I do not mind. I was just wondering if they now need some protective coating but if it's good to use as is after blasting I'm happy to leave it at that. I did take some photos so I'll post some tonight. Quote
PeterAllen Posted November 18, 2014 Posted November 18, 2014 George. Internal surfaces which come into contact with fluids should be bead blaster not sand blasted. There is a risk with sand blasting that you create a roughened surface with minuscule peak which snap off under pressure of the fluid flow. You will need to hit them with a die grinder or Dremel thingo. All gasket surfaces will need to be lapped with 'wet and dry' on an ultra smooth surface. Wait until Kylie goes out and use the kitchen bench top! Quote
George Posted November 18, 2014 Author Posted November 18, 2014 You will need to hit them with a die grinder or Dremel thingo. All gasket surfaces will need to be lapped with 'wet and dry' on an ultra smooth surface. Wait until Kylie goes out and use the kitchen bench top! I have a Dremel so I'll give it a go. I'll sleep on the idea about the bench top. My primitive survival instincts are telling me to be cautious here... Quote
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