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Posted

Brand new in the box, # 365056 x4. Bought from Baz at Datsport for $530 inc shipping from SA (95% sure.. will dig up receipt) only a few months ago. Was going to put them in my 260z 2+2 with a spacer but am thinking of going another way now.

 

I'm waiting on some info regarding my other option and if it's not going to work I may decide to keep the KYBs... but if you're interested PM me an offer and I'll keep you posted.

 

Pick up from northern suburbs Melbourne, I can deliver if you're between Bundoora and Richmond or Bundoora and Greenvale as I frequent those areas. Or shipping interstate at your expense.

Posted

Quick update - definitely for sale now.  Don't be afraid to make an offer!  :)

 

Bit more info about them which I obtained from KYB...

 

361002 (260z front)  Extended 565mm, Compressed 410mm, Body length 379mm, 12mm mounting stem.

361003 (260z rear) Extended 659mm, Compressed 497mm, Body length 463mm, 12mm mounting stem.

365056 (Z31 front) Extended 558mm, Compressed 392mm, Body length 392mm, 14mm mounting stem.

 

361002 is 10% percentage firmer on compression than 365056 while 365056 is 50% firmer on rebound than 361002.

 

Posted

For 240z the strut tubes are smaller than later 260z's (I think 51mm OD).  They will usually fit from what I've heard/read, however they very tight and often require stripping/sanding back the paint on the shocks and cleaning up the bore of the strut to get them in.

 

Then the other mods are adding a spacer either at the top or bottom of the shock (as they are shorter than the original shocks) - I measured roughly 8mm (inc allowing for some crush to hold the shock centered in place) for the front - haven't measured the rears yet though they're longer so the spacer would also be longer.  You can a.) make a spacer out of some steel tube and slide it over the little foot/perch at the bottom of the shock (easiest option), b.) machine something up to space the shock downwards in the strut (harder option, though less likely to bottom out if you're running very low), or c.) cutting the thread down lower (M52x1.5 tap) for the gland nut and cutting down the top of the strut tube so the gland nut sits lower (may not be an option for the rears given the longer depth you'd have to cut the thread).

 

Also the thread at the top is M14, so you'd need to drill out the top of the strut from 12mm to 14mm.

 

Most guys apparently go for Option A, which means all you'd have to do is make it fit in the tube, cut off a bit of tube to make the spacer, and drill out the top mounting hole to 14mm.

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