PeterAllen Posted October 18, 2013 Posted October 18, 2013 I wonder if any of the racing chaps have fitted a Lexan rear window (without the OEM seal) and would describe how they did it. I'm worried that drilling holes in the Lexan too close to the edge will end in tears. Quote
dat2kman Posted October 18, 2013 Posted October 18, 2013 Sikaflex Black sealanton outide, a thin bead followed immediately with a finger dipped in strong detergent solution. To get the Lexan flush with the flat face of the hatch surround, use thin strips of blocking foan, get that from Clarh rubber or bunnings. A few dabs of glue to hold strips in place in the rebate on the lip where the original seal went. Quote
PeterAllen Posted October 18, 2013 Author Posted October 18, 2013 Sikaflex Black sealant on outside, a thin bead... Thanks - So just the edge (thickness) of the Lexan is glued and not the face that sits on the lip (now covered in foam). Have I got that right? What thickness of Lexan do you suggest? Quote
PZG302 Posted October 18, 2013 Posted October 18, 2013 Or as I did on mine, cut the perspex to sit on the ridge of the hatch and about a dozen tech screws through the perspex and straight through the hatch. But mine was race only, using 1.8mm thick perspex and I cared not for pretty. Quote
Z Shop Performance Posted October 18, 2013 Posted October 18, 2013 Fraser & Alan at Alfa fibreglass make ultralight outer hatch half shells. We Sikaflex the Lexan in & try to stop the water with foam rubber strips. 2 x Dzus fasteners at the top - bonnet pins at the bottom. Check with CAMS. You might need vertical Aluminium straps to stop the Lexan from getting sucked out. Careful Lexan scratches easily when cleaning - only pressure wash the grit off. Quote
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