HomeBuiltByJeff

In this episode I have a go at TIG welding a stainless steel exhaust for the 680g with a bit of help from Benny, aka The Mechanical Stig.

In this episode I put a few finishing touches on the exterior of the 680g and some of them may be controversial.

In this episode I go back and tidy up a bunch of loose ends on the 680g

In this episode I attempt to sort out the birds nest that is the wiring on the 680g

In this episode I try my luck at cutting and buffing the 680.

In this episode I swap around the brakes and have another go at bleeding them.

In this episode I tackle the rest of the diamond stitched trim in the interior of the Z.

There are some small differences between doors, but I would have to paint the entire side of the car again to match in a new door. I am good with it as it is.

In my area, but doesn't look great from the pics.

In this episode I sort out the final fit up of the front end.

I will head out to Zac's and see what he has in the way of door handles first. I am sure he has something around. It may just be a case of using the broken one on the passenger side and get a new one for the drivers. As for the inside of the door skins, they both look identical.

In this episode, I tackle the trimming on the rear wheel arches.

I think I will make up my own version of that for my seat belts. As for the doors, that sounds more like it. They are probably just 2 slightly different 240z doors. You can see on the video tonight, but the 2 door handles are slightly different shapes. The ends of one of them are more or less a rectangle and the others are wider at the bottom than the top (if that makes any sense ). The differences with the doors themselves is just a couple of the points were the window frame bolts in are slightly different, and just as I am thinking about it, it could also just be that I may have welded in a flat patch where there used to be a bolt hole

I am just guessing that one door is from a 260z as the handles are different and the bolting points for the window frame vary slightly. The window winder mechanism and the door handles appear to be the same so I don't see too many issues there. Either way I am not getting a new door so I am going to work with what I have As for the seat belt inertia reel, I did play with it and it still locks, but it does require a bit more force than normal. I think I will weld up new mounting bolts in the wheel arches.

The belts will still be 3 point, I am just removing the redirect. The rubber hose I am completely happy with. I am not going for a concours restoration, and they work great. Yes I could spend $30 buying the correct parts, or I could make them for free (I don't call it 'Home Bought by Jeff' for a reason ). As for the struts and hubs. I had no reason to believe that they were anything other than 240z hubs (an I believe the struts are 240z as they are 51mm). I don't know what is what on this car. I just found yesterday that one door must be from a 260 and one from a 240 as there are slight differences. I had no idea until recently how different the 240 and the 260's are. They look similar, but almost every single part is different. Bottom line is that I am moving at such a rate through this and I am waiting for things to be delivered. I am not sure what I will be doing next or what issues I will face until I get to it. I discover things as you see it. I am filming again tomorrow and I have an idea of what I am doing for that, but if something unexpected trips me up, I have to change tack at the last minute and do something else. I am grateful for all the help I get from everyone, and that is why I do ask questions when I have them.

I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors.

It will be interesting to see how well this repair lasts. I do like the fact that it is a bit more flexible, but who knows. At the moment the top of the dash does feel a bit different to the bottom. It feels a bit more rough, like overspray, but I think I can get it a bit better with another going over

I literally just finished buying a new valve 30 seconds before reading this. I have got one from ebay out of Japan for about $100 (Nissan here wanted over $300!). Mine is a bit different to that one though. Either way, it will be a couple of weeks before I can reinstall the dash so I will have to get onto other things

A tip one of my viewers just gave me for bigger cracks was using expanding foam to fill some space and then the flexible filler on the top. The method I have used I am sure won't last forever, but it will give the dash a few more years of life.

The bumper filler brand is Isopon and the paint just says Body Texture Paint, both were just found doing searches on ebay.

This week I redo my Datsun's dash repair with a factory style textured finish.

In this episode I have a go at repairing the dash and also modify and fit an accelerator cable to my Z.

Hey, if you can learn from my mistakes then it is all worth while. That is why I don't cover up stuff. I just show it as it is and try to work through it.

I have gotten myself some similar clamps to do the same thing. That is a great reference pic, thanks. Ahh, ok, I see what you are talking about. Mine only has the 2 lines as the others mentioned.

Sorry I am not sure what you mean here?