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Dyson

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Everything posted by Dyson

  1. Thought I'd see if anyone was interested in these panels before I put them on ebay. Just arrived from Resurrected Classics in the US. $1300 each plus freight and I have two. Dyson
  2. Before I purchase a set from the US, thought I'd ask if anyone has some. $84 each from Nissan Aust. ouch! Cheers Dyson
  3. You are right about the dash mounting points. I sat the 240 dash in place on the 260 front cut and some of the lower brackets are different and don't line up. The 240 also has a couple of extra mounting holes along the top section. Easy enough to rectify when your doing a complete bare shell resto.
  4. I'm starting to worry after what you've just said, but it's good to know - I want to know. I bought the front cut and roof off a guy in Gold Coast. He drives a bayside blue 260 flared with an RB26. He purchased a whole car and chopped it up cause he needed the rear for his. I think he was kicking himself for chopping it up, as it was in very good shape. So I scored the roof and front, my roof has a sunroof in it. I'm letting my panel beater decide what the best course of action is, but I think we'll use as much of the 260 as possible. (I think it's the only way to save the car) We'll probably attach through the 'A' pillars and half way along the sills. I want to cut out the entire 240 firewall and transfer it over to keep the vin and all the holes correct. My 240 radiator support is in poor shape. I've seen on ebay someone that makes them and a mob in England makes them too. I guess if I changed it, the front would retain its originality and please the purists - arghh it's only money! I'm still learning about the zeds but I was under the impression the 240/260 had the same dimensions, the 260 being a mere facelift at the time, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll check the dash mounting points, better to know now then when I'm starting to re-assemble. Thanks again.
  5. No ID tag just chassis number. Will try and make it look as 240 as possible (removing unnecessary brackets) All the 240 panels will still bolt up right? Guards, grill, bumper brackets etc? Have yet to sit them side by side for comparison analysis.
  6. Has taken me awhile to update this post. This is the 260 front cut I bought, very clean virtually rust free, just some mild damage to the RHF section. Heater and air con holes will have to be modified, but please let me know what else you notice that I might have to change.
  7. Just going to keep the sealed beams at this stage. Car will rarely be driven at night.
  8. Thanks Gill, I've been working through different sections of the car at a time. I stripped down the dash, sent the gauges away for testing/repair, and waiting to find a big enough box to fit the dash into so I can send it to Melb Dash Doctor. I'm media blasting the old chrome off the heater control panel, but might just consider buying a reproduction from the US as someone had chopped out the bottom section to accomodate an aftermaket head unit. All the dash wiring is good, just like to remove old insulation tape and re-wrap with cloth insulation tape (anti-squeak). Just set up my zinc plating workstation in the garage (purchased from Jane kits) It's amazing how a middle aged man can get so exited about restoring bolts, brackets etc (wife rolls eyes)
  9. Thanks guys, will just keep an eye out. One will come along eventually. I don't have the switch at all gill, car was not complete when I bought it. Now that I've started the resto, I'm noticing all the bits thats are missing
  10. Thanks gav, easy to miss this one as they listed it as a speedo? Do you know the difference between the 240 and 260 indicator switch? Cheers
  11. Please let me know if you have one. Thank you
  12. I'm also wanting to remove the vacuum applied chrome from the heater controls. Will take forever peeling off by hand. Did you have any luck??
  13. I've been slowly going through my boxes of parts over the last couple of weeks (thanks covid for the extra time) and restoring/rejuvenating them as I go. Searched every box but indicator switch is missing. I'm sure I'll find many other parts missing along the way. I can get my hands on a 75 260z indicator and combo switch, but Andbir mentioned they are different. Also Gav can you suggest someone in qld that can restore the annodising to parts like horn contact on steering wheel and under bonnet light and so on? Cheers Dyson
  14. Are the 240z and 260z indicator switches the same? Also headlight combination switch too? Thank you
  15. Already done. Thank you
  16. Recommendations on where to buy engine rebuild kits (short engine) for 240Z L24? Pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain kit and so on. zcarsource seems to have thorough kits. Cheers
  17. It's a big mix of rust repairs and crash repairs, probably all done on the cheap in the eighties or early nineties. No aussie compliance plate, but build 114
  18. I'm waiting on some better photos, but the two I've seen so far are promising. Just bought a roof off the bloke and it is spot on...no rust at all. The rear is rough but manageable. Just the usual rusty areas.
  19. Thanks for your feedback Gilltech. I wouldn't be overly keen to fab on the 260Z front end, I'd rather chop out the bits I need to keep the car as original as possible. The front of my 240 is in very poor shape. Just trying to make my old panel beaters job easier for him, fabricating new panels as you know is time consuming which = more expense. Here's a sample of what we have to tackle..............note the very very poor previous repair work.
  20. Looking at purchasing a 260z front cut as my 240z front end needs a lot of work (bare shell only) Are there any key differences I need to be aware of? Frame rails, mounting points, radiator support are they the same? Should I fabricate the 260Z front on or just chop out all the bits I need? All help appreciated
  21. Thanks for your recommendations. Gav I think its just Nissan OHC on rocker cover (I'll check monday) and as for the interior, it's very ordinary. On the plus side the dash isn't too bad, I have the original steering wheel and alloy rims. Being build no 114 does that make it a 70 model? Thanks again.
  22. Hey guys Joined the other night after more attempts of fueling my inner fire to start on a well worthwhile project. I bought the car about 5 years ago from a local wrecker. The previous owner of the car was old and gave the car up for retirement instead of trying to sell it. I hassled the owner of the wreckers for months to sell it to me, and eventually he gave in. $1000 changed hands and then it was mine. It's an early vin HS30-00114 with original engine. Unfortunately someone at some stage thought a sunroof was a good idea....not! I stripped it all back to the bare shell and then thought..........what am I getting myself into, the rust! the rust! It then got pushed around my workshop floor for a few months before being hoisted up and hung from the ceiling. Many people walk into my workshop and are fascinated to see it hanging from the roof and always ask if I'm going to restore it. My reply is yes, when I'm old and grey. But now I don't think I can or should wait that long. George's new project inspired me because I saw the rust he had to deal with and I thought, crap, mines not that bad. I just bought the book 'how to restore your Z car', thought it maybe worth a read. (more inspiration) In order for me to get started the car needs to be sandblasted and I need to source rust repair panels. Floors, front chassis rails, sills, dog legs, etc. It seems like the USA is the go to place for panels. I would rather support Aussie business but I don't know where to start looking. I've got over 20 years experience as a motor mechanic and 0 years experience as a panel beater.......no harm in trying.
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