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After not running and being caught in the rain for the past week I've got a few flecks of surface rust starting to come through. What's the procedure in dealing with this issue?

Thanks for letting me know about this one Sushi. Put me down in pencil, if nothing else breaks and I don't forget I'll be able to make it.

Yeah, but I'm poor now remember Thanks for the heads up on the eBay dizzy, that's got me a little worried now.

How did you do that? White man magic or something? Thanks Luke, I'll keep an eye on the thread. Reason I need a replacement is when I went to put the Pertronix kit in mine I found that not only was it not the original (the kit didn't fit), but the shaft that slotted into the cam was cracked. But seriously, who installs an aftermarket points distributor? I guess the same person who puts a racing cam into a block with SSS carbs :-\

Doesn't matter if it's points or electronic. I can pay PayPal, bank transfer or - if you live in SE QLD - cash when I pick it up. PM or reply here if you have one to offload or know someone who does. Thanks.

Got the car back yesterday and it's not too bad. Doesn't pin you to your seat or anything but it works ok but the jets do need fine-tuning which will happen on Tuesday. Hopefully after that there are no more dramas.

Well that's a bit of a downer, they're already back and on the car with the jets getting tuned tomorrow. Sounds like I wasted $840 given the twin 42mm Webbers going for 800 on eBay. Should I look at these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-240z-260z-twin-carbs-SU-s_W0QQitemZ330316901619QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item330316901619&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318? Hell I don't know anymore. And for those who were wondering, it's the floats that were fucked on the 180Bs. Excuse the french, I'm a tad pissed off round about now. Maybe I won't notice a difference coming from a 92 corolla and having never driven one with the proper carbies.

Might be interested, how's the condition and will it drop into a 260Z?

It's in at the shop now and they've said that the compression is okay and it's the carbs that need to be rebuilt. This was confirmed by the plugs which I put in last week that have completely sooted up in the time I've been trying to identify the problem. So the carbies were whisked away to the magical place where they charge lots of money to come back good as new. Funny thing is they rang me and they turn out to be 180B 38mm carbs and not 44mm 240Z SUs which could explain why I have a cable throttle instead of a pushrod now. My guess is that this will mean less power but better consumption. On the other hand I'll probably have to take it back to the guys that rebuilt the carbs to get the jets adjusted once they're back on the car. I'm hoping after this I'll finally get what I thought I paid for (a 260Z in good working order). Oh well, hopefully things will run smoothly for a while after I get a replace the radiator, hoses and leads.

Checked the carbs and they weren't the problem (though the front was clunking a little softer than the back) and I'm not game to try the valves myself so I'll get a mobile mechanic to come and have a look at it and pester him about everything so I'll learnt a few things. Is the oil in the carbs any special type, or just regular engine oil?

It's quite reluctant to go below 1000, it gets rather rough but it has had cam work which could partially explain that situation. I changed the plugs a couple days ago and it looked rich all round so I tried resetting the mix (screwed it all the way up and loosened 6 turns I'll check those out today. Thanks for the suggestions. What number is the carb slide on the diagram? Also heard it may be a vacuum hose issue. Is there any likelihood of that? You're talking about the air valve? What am I looking for, if there's low or no clearance what do I do?

I think I've sussed the problem, I'm getting no suction from the front carby (which would explain the fumes as well). Can someone please suggest something other than loss of compression in one or more of the cylinders caused by scoring or busted rings?

After some playing under the bonnet I managed to get the idle down to 1k but I suppose I didn't do it properly because it's pretty unstable, even when warm. My guess is I adjusted the screws in the wrong order which would be a pretty good assumption as illustrated in the diagram below (it doesn't help that I can't a good 240Z twin SU diagram). I got the picture from http://phreakmonkey.com/240Z/ebay/IMG_2331.jpg if you want to make corrections. Also the pic shows a pushrod set up for the throttle but mine is a cable with another screw at the top. Any pointers?

Please elaborate.

That's without throttle, I put the choke in and it just kept climbing so I freaked out and let it off. But now I'm thinking I'm a retard and have been driving with the choke in all this time (that's what happens when you have a noob without a choke light). I have to climb a hill before I go anywhere, does this change anything or just use low revs up? I'll check the air filter today.

I wouldn't mind the increase power so it would be more for economy but also restoring original performance, but just driving it today my right foot kept getting heavy so perhaps not. Having the mech doing the roadworthy replacing the rear wheel bearings put a dent in the budget as well. Basically I guess I'll stick with the carbies for now, play around, learn a bit and then move on. Couple more questions though: Does http://www.classiccarhub.co.uk/articles/perfomance/guide_to_setting_up_tuning_su_carburettors.html contain what I need to know for carb tuning? Should I tune plugs then carbs, carbs then plugs or carbs/plugs/carbs/plugs/carbs/plugs etc? Should it rev to 4.5K when it's cold with the choke on? How long exactly should I warm it for (we're talking QLD weather, usually 20C but as low as 13C if when I get up early in the winter)? Was $550 too much for replacing 4 wheel bearings (parts and labour, I have the feeling I was bent over a bit)?

I'm intending to use the Zed as a daily and being a uni student I'm more or less a tightwad so I'm looking for something that will run economically and deliver around the 160hp that the L26 did when it was new or perhaps a way to improve economy in the current engine (it's using 240 carbs right now if that helps any). I do about 50/50 highway driving so I'm trying to keep that in mind but right now I'm thinking a CA18DE(T) or RB20. Any thoughts or suggestions? L28 conversions seem popular, what's the take on that? Also would I need to change the box up or anything in the exhaust apart from extractors (I'm a newbie but I'm learning, slowly)?

I heard through a third party (Dr. Karl via a light aircraft pilot or flying doctor) who sprays a water/lanolin mix into every crack and crevice. Apparently it works to same as fish oil but doesn't smell and dust doesn't stick quite as much. Might give this one a try and let you know, assuming I'm able to buy it by the kilo where it won't cost a bajillion dollars.

Chased up the spoilernet guys, see what happens. AllZ has the covers for $140 so I'll get them there if I get the spoiler from them (just to combine the postage and make it easier). Looks like you'll have to set aside those 5 minutes after all

Thanks guys, I've chased the websites up and I'll get see if I can get into contact with Len tomorrow. @RBZ 260, I'd make an offer but I don't know how much they're worth. Suggest a price?

While I haven't taken delivery of it yet (en route from Melbourne) I want to get some parts lined up for it so they're good to go once it gets here. So...yeah I'm looking for the covers and spoiler, preferably from somewhere near to the Gold Coast or at least in the country but I'm having trouble finding any (though I have been known to google the wrong phrase). Something like these: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/ZHLC.htm http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/Z-70-4-carbonfibeerfrontBREspoilerwithducts-190-30lbs.jpg OR http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1404 Thanks in advance