Robstar

V12 or bust!

No, I'd say you haven't offended anybody in this thread, because first and foremost, we aren't 'keyboard warriors' and we are all well over the high school stage of life. EDIT: I wrote this huge too long; didn't read, kind of post! But realised, who the hell really cares Rob (Speaking to myself).

I'm paperstar on xboxlive, I haven't bought Forza 2 yet for it, but when I get around to it, I'll join you on that racing team escapade haha!

Damn Sushi, just.. damn. I'd gladly send you packaged seaweed to nibble on! >

The engine was a 6-cylinder inline DOHC 24-valve S20engine, the car itself isn't just rare.. it's priceless.

I figured for just boredom's sake, I'd start a topic on how much money we have/will invested. I'll start off with 5 grand (260z costs 3500 and VH41DE I bought for $1200!) and expect to spend 20k+ over the next year or two, having no obligations apart from rent/school and ditching a would-be girlfriend for a car helps a little. Bawhaha What about you guys?

I can vouch that a SR20DET or TT in a 260z, would own. It's quite an incredible engine for 4 cyl's.

Well I think that's the best place to read on about it from now on, I should have looked there first! They've done some real testing as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126574

From what I've read in the past.. well nine hours, I've come to the conclusion that theoretically, they will help! Also if placing VG's on the top of your roof isn't your cup of tea, you can place six or eight VG's along the bottom of the tail end and it'll help with aerodynamic stability instead of just improving air flow if they were above your rear window. (Keeping in mind this is all at around 60km/h and upwards..) But I'm mostly curious in to some real life testing on how this would effect the infamous fume smell in some z cars, obviously the lip spoiler helps, but I think with the VG's, it could further rectify that specific problem. Also a good way to find out how the air flows on the back of the rear window for our 240/60z's would be to make a dot like grid along the back window, of short strings of wool and some masking tape to tape them to the window, the flow down the back end while driving in a straight line would show just how the air moves along the car. Either that or a wind tunnel and last time I checked, they aren't exactly sold at Target! Hahahaha.

I've seen a couple of these go up on Ebay, would definately require a bit of work to set up and probably not that reliable. The car was a Triple Weber Twin Turbo, probably high risk of detonation. I'm not sure what the huge fascination with the Wangan Midnight style is though. Its a cool car but not the best looking Zcar. That's just my opinion though . Not probably, haha -is- a high risk of detonation. I think it's just like any trend, Wangan Midnight anime and Maximum Tune 1, 2 and 3 arcade games has alot of influence on the teenage generation, that and the fact that the skylines are on there way OUT in terms of trend setting. *coughs* stupid fast and the furious *coughs*

$750 for an RB? What RB is this? They don't really go that cheap.. Unless it's something shoddy like an old RB20. You can easily replace the back 260z tail-lights for 240 ones, I think that's about the only major difference in terms of looks, unless you go and buy a 2+2 seater 260z, which obviously has a longer wheelbase (12"). I'm not exactly sure how much it would cost to get your engine running well or even boost it, but this is a forum and about 70% of the zed's on here have been in shoes, they'll tell you what's what soon enough. =]

Welcome to the forums! The 260z sounds more bang for buck, even if it is 4k, minor rust can be repaired without completely stripping the car down to the bone. What's your reasoning behind an RB conversion, out of curiosity?

Recently I had a bit of an idea and thought I'd just run it by you guys, see if there is someone who already thought of it or just found it wouldn't do much in a realistic driving world. Vortex generators are found on the back of Mitsubishi Evo's. They improve the flow down the rear window, getting more air to the wing/lip. Would this borderline 'Ricey' mod help the poor aerodynamics of a 240/260's rear? Do they even work in the first place? I'm still reading up more and more about this as I posted this thread, so if I find something that proves that shark fins on a car do jack all, then I'll just leave it at that. 1. Vortex generators on cars can achieve measurable, scientifically proven improvements in car aerodynamics – reducing both lift and drag. The Lancer Evo is probably the shape of things to come – expect vortex generators (of whatever design) to be used on new cars, especially to improve the flow around corners towards the rear of the body. 2. Commercially available (and cheap) vortex generators like AirTabs can achieve a provable change in car aerodynamic behavior. Even a single vortex generator will alter local flow behavior, something to keep in mind when considering airflow into bonnet scoops and at specific problem areas. 3. Positive gains can be achieved only by practical experimentation. That’s the downside – the upside is that the vortex generators are easy to temporarily stick into place with masking tape, and just as easily removed if they are not achieving the desired results. They’re also cheap enough that buying ten or so for experimentation is a good investment. 4. The use of vortex generators under cars has zero visual impact and looks to have excellent potential for reducing lift without increasing drag. [stolen information from Autospeed.com] Give your opinions and even better, facts if anyone is a aerodynamics engineer.

Well, just for the record I hope I didn't acidentally bash the LS1 or GEN III! I love all engines, but I'm a big fan of keeping Nissan-Nissan. At first I was going to go with a T-56, just going to go with the Z32 manual tranny in the end, there is an adaptor thank god. Obviously the scene for a VH engine isn't large, considering the over-engineered engine was mispackaged into a luxury model car which had it's value depreciate at an incredible rate over the years, you could pick up a Nissan Cima half cut for about 1k - 1.5k. The JDM spec VH41DE is also superior to the VH45DE, the only difference between the two was 400cc and the duplex timing chain setup, VH41 never had troubles with it's timing chains. Also the heads flow better than the VH45DE and the VH45 internals can fit into the VH41, they're practically the same engine with different internals. The aftermarket scene is near zilch when it comes to the VH, sure, but it's incredible engine with an indestructible bottom end--more so than the RB25's bottom end. Lighter than an RB, Wide alloy block, fits closer to the firewall for optimum weight balance and makes 300 - 350hp easily with little to no changes to the stock internals, also the ECU is a 32bit IIRC and can be tuned perfectly for the engine for optimum performance, although with a VH, you'll have plenty of torque for 300hp. Gonna be hard putting to the ground without some good tires. =] I could go on and on and on, but I'll save taking over the OP's thread. Hahaha! (Also, for the record, when I start the project, screw intellectual property; i'll post how exactly the engine mounts, subframe & drivetrain was built specifically for a 260z chassis, right down to the MM for the world to try, I would love to see a more positive outlook on the wonder that is the VH, except the USDMVH41DE, that engine is a piece of rubbish). EDIT: Just edited out the swearing, haha; just to keep it sensible. =]

Forget the GEN III and the LS1 and go for a JDMVH41DE. If you need me to elaborate, I will.

I didn't think there were any screws to begin with, seems the sunroof is just welded into the top of the car. I don't know about you, but I plan to just smash the sunroof, saw it out and replace with carbon fiber.

Thanks for the advice Dazzed, but I've decided to get a 260z and I've already secured it and should have it on the Feb 12th by a local perthy, the owner seems quite reliable and a fellow Z enthusiast, so I trust what he's said about the the car itself, good history, rust isn't bad etc.. After contemplating nonstop for a couple months on what engine I was going to convert into the car and almost deciding on a RB26DETT, I scrapped the idea completely. I'll be fitting a VH45DE in instead and instead of being a daily driver, it'll be used whenever I'm not driving to and from work, just for track, showing off on hill-climbs with mates (that should be fun, since they all drive honda's and toyota's) and the occasional relaxing drive.. kekeke *evil-grin*. I'll be spending that extra buck on making the interior as comfortable and top-notch as the inside of a BMW, along with a chromed roll-cage. This year shall be an exciting and long one for me.

All I could find was this. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/MA001

Must find; ebay? Hahaha maybe a custom design or gift from Nissan themselves. P.S - V8's taking over the straight six scene!

I was thinking it might be a good idea buying those car manuals for it, don't they show exactly how the car went together in the first place?

After pondering a bit, I'm not in any rush to get behind the wheel and give it a drive at it's current state. Basically, I don't have many obligations to anything as I'm still a student and never went too crazy with my CC. So every penny I earn for the next 2+ years will be poured straight into the Z. I've also decided what engine is going to be going in it, the VH45DE. As spon as the baby gets into the garage, me and about four or five mates are going to strip it down and prep it for such an engine, thank god for the 240/260'z engine bay size! Hahaha. I'll post some pictures in the future when the car is in the garage and stripped, it does need a bit of work in there. Doing it right the first time. (Been reading every thread on this forum haha)

Well I've managed to secure a 260z from a friendly bloke, Paul, here in perth. The car is in good condition, everything is pretty much stock as well. L26 engine in there, needs a carb rebuild to get it going properly. Should be in my garage by Feb and ready to work on!! But I'm lost as where to begin, from what I've dicussed with Paul, the engine in it is still pretty good to go for another year or so I reckon and I wouldn't mind the idea of getting comfortable with the machine before I go ahead and do something drastic like ripping the engine out and putting something else in there. So I think for now I'd like to keep the original engine in there, but perhaps clean it up a little. I also want to eliminate all rust, literally, the idea (with the help of some good mates) was to tear the car down to the bone and fix up any rust inside and give it a spanking new paint job, but is there something I should be paying attention too first? Is it alot more complicated than it seems. No doubt some of the guys around here have stripped their cars down, etc. I'll let the thread take it from here, BTW don't be afraid to get technical on me, I'd prefer it that way.

Thanks for the replies! It seems that the 260z 2 seater option and change the tail lights is a good way to go! Isn't that what Sulio (toecutter) did? Or maybe I just read some of his threads wrong haha. To be honest, I though about the rb 25/30 way, thankfully though I'm studying Mech Engineering and everyone that I know who has done it longer than I have reckons that although it's a good option, they think the RB20 was a masterpiece within itself, apparently it's 'Crank can withstand upto 800 HP', I honestly have my doubts about that.. But I'm sure someone here could clarify what exactly was the appeal with the RB20 when they stated some of those claims. (Most likely after thousands of dollars in aftermarket mods to the engine and everything else but the crank is forged) If I'm looking at 10k or so for a good conditioned Z, well it looks like I'll still be saving up a bit longer, but I guess like Hellfire said, I'll be patient as soon as I do get it though, I'll be definitely making a thread of my own in the builds thread.

I wonder how much it would cost to get that rail fixed, mate had something like that in a 1200 a while back and his car always want to go sidewards a little driving straight.

What shape is the chassis in? Hasn't had any prangs or bends in the body?