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atticus

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  1. this may help, even though it's US codes: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html
  2. Hey guys - I'm looking for a 240 or 260 2 seater for a project. Preferably: - As original as possible - Matching numbers (or at least the correct engine size) - Manual - Drivable - Black interior Condition/price is variable. I'm in Melb so something in VIC would be great. I'm willing to buy from interstate if I can drive it home. brookeobrien@gmail.com Cheers
  3. Mate it depends what your goals are o/s. partying? travel? career? IMHO it's not worth being stuck in a miserable job for months at a time just so you can stick it on your resume. however if the money is a big issue and will fund further travel etc, it might be worth it. i have mates who did the london thing, ended up in jobs they hated and regretted the entire 6 months. it's hard for me cos i love my job and get paid decent money
  4. As far as I know, sand isn't radioactive. It can lead to this though: Silicosis (also known as Grinder's disease and Potter's rot) is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in forms of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs. Silicosis (especially the acute form) is characterized by shortness of breath, fever, and cyanosis (bluish skin). It may often be misdiagnosed as pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs), pneumonia, or tuberculosis. When small silica dust particles are inhaled, they can embed themselves deeply into the tiny alveolar sacs and ducts in the lungs, where oxygen and carbon dioxide gases are exchanged. There, the lungs cannot clear out the dust by mucous or coughing. Silicosis is an occupational hazard to mining, sandblasting, quarry, ceramics and foundry workers, as well as grinders, stonecutters and those continually exposed to silica dust. Silicosis is an irreversible condition with no cure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis
  5. Aha - thankyou so much Sam
  6. Hi Guys, I'm hoping you can clarify something for me. I've read articles on the history of zeds, some saying that the 260 was only produced from '74-'75, but I've seen '77 260z's advertised for sale? I'm guessing there's a difference in the US and Aussie markets? In the australian market, when did the model/body change to the 280? I only ask in case I end up with a 280 that's been re-badged And if so, is there anywhere I can find out what the factory colours were in the Australian market for the 260's? Also - can anyone recommend quality rust repair and paint work in melbourne? Cheers
  7. yeah i know what you mean with the silver, that's why i like black! IMO any of those except yellow. just doesn't look natural on that car to me
  8. Wow guys - thanks so much for the responses. If I had the cash, I'd buy it anyway - but judging from your advice it's just going to cost too much to get it up to scratch. Nice to know that I should be able to get what I'm after within my budget though. As for the black - I guessed it would be a bit more prep/coats of paint to get it to black, it's just a personal preference, i reckon it looks brilliant against the chrome detail! i guess silver would be my second preference i terms of body/cost and it will probably look a bit more original too. As for transmission, I'll only go for a manual, I've never driven anything else, and they're much more fun! And I'd prefer a 2+2 for practicality's sake. If anyone else is interested in this one, bargain hard, and be prepared for a road trip into the victorian countryside! I've just spotted another one in broadford, I'll probably pop over there on the weekend. Thanks again! Cheers, atticus
  9. Hi guys, Well I've been looking at zeds for a couple of years now, and I've found one on the trading post that might be a light restoration project for me. Just thought I'd get some opinions before I spend my hard earned cash! Here goes: The bonnet has a pretty bad crack across the nose of it from a kangaroo accident. Not sure, but it looks like its mostly just the paint, except the left corner is pretty banged up. Rest of the body is very straight. Rust: spots of surface rust on the doors, some existing patch work around the wheel bays, some pretty nasty stuff along the very edge below the doors. (looks like these panels are available as replacements.) The rest pretty good. Interior: both front seats split in centre leather (?) fabric panel (are these repairable?), dash A1, rear A1, instruments A1, carpet average, bits and pieces could be cleaned up/replaced eventually. Seals: doors need replacing, some flexibility in rear window seals, is this normal? Mech: had a 280 engine put in about 10 years ago professionally. new radiator (custom built) alternator and distributor installed by current owner in the last few years. So much fun to drive! Started fine, sounded fine, transmission feels good. Brakes felt quite soft/delayed and i wasn't sure if this was normal? He's asking $6700. Is he dreaming? Should I steer clear, or is it a manageable project? Apart from the rust the body is great, mech seems good, all original bits are there. The other thing is the owner hasn't got a RWC yet, i think it'll need a bit of work for that (the left indicator isn't working either) How much do you reckon it would cost to repair the bonnet, body rust and respray black? that would be my initial expense, the rest i can fix up bit by bit later on. I know i have so many questions but any help would be much appreciated! Photos below. Cheers, Atticus.
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