maddos

Yeah think that’s what I’ll be doing. Spoke to the local brake and clutch place yesterday and it’s about $130 each side. Plus whatever pistons cost extra.

Hi all. I’ve pulled my brakes apart for rebuild and the front right caliper had pistons seized due to failed seals. I think the bore will likely be stuffed so am either looking for a new caliper in condition suitable to refurb or possibly the S12+8 upgrade. I have already mistakenly purchased a set of S 12 W calipers which seem a bit large and aren’t a direct bolt on. Any options welcomed. Cheers Maddo

Looking like it. Second time it's happened. Because was blaming dowel, didn't even think about needing exrtra washer. Oh well. Looks like head had a minor leak from jacket into no. 3 anyway.

I have an electric fuel pump fitted as I have an L28 with EFI fitted. I know the one you're talking about though on the original L26. I think that's quite possibly the most likely scenario with it bottoming out. In any case the head is coming is coming off right now as I can see I have a few bent valves going by the slack under some rocker arms. So when it goes back together this time, will add those extra washers and hopefully I'll get more than 6000 Klm or so before I have to pull it apart again. ?

Haha could be my alias. Just removed the bolt and really had to swing off it so it wasn't loose. Did only have a spring washer under it though.

Oh. Well if that's the case I have misunderstood. Wouldn't have thought the bolt tension alone would have been up to the task. The washer isn't the large eccentric one either so that may not be helping matters.

Has the large washer under the bolt still. The actual cam gear hasn't moved, it's the dowel which is usually stuck solid in the cam has migrated forward to the point where it is still inside the gear (can't fall out due to washer) but is no longer engaging the cam.

Hi all. Been a while. Just wondering if anyone else has encountered the locking dowel in end of cam coming free. Mine has just done for a second time. Last time had to rebuild head due to bent valves and I'm guessing when I look into it tomorrow will be repeating. I even loctited the little bugger in last time. Can't remember the number but was pink.

How about that. Glad you got to the bottom of it.

Even if it hasn't shorted, check that the brake pedal is physically making contact with it when not depressed.

I'd be looking at your brake switch. Considering the problem happens when acc is switched on this rules out a problem with your parker's cct because they would be on whether key was on or off anyway. Try pulling the wires from the switch attached to your brake pedal and if you have a meter, check the resistance across it. I'm guessing it may have gone short. Happy fault finding. Just a tip, 12v is constantly supplied to lamps with the earth being switched to complete cct.

Nice. Very unique.

I went down the complete 280zx donor car path. Much easier as already stated because everything is there for you including the engine. Like the ebay ad says, your head also wont be suitable because it doesn't have the notches for the injectors. I used pretty much everything off the 280, ECU, loom, dizzy, manifold and fuel pump. They pop up every now and then rusted out beyond help going cheap. Either that or an old skyline or 280c. Wiring up isn't so difficult just have to pretty much find some switched power to supply ECU and fuel pump relay etc. One problem I ran into was with rego where they wouldn't pass it with a pod filter unenclosed. I ended up getting and airfilter box from the US from a 280z which makes it look like it all belongs. You probably still have the 260z carbies on it though and a swap to the 240 style is always a much easier option with good results. Good luck with it

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=270815478292&kw=270815478292 This car looked like a bargain.

Anyone have any info on the "specialiast" I drove past on Scoresby Rd the other morning?