datozed

Hi all , I believe the front bumper bars to be of good quality and are a top mob to deal with ...I was the guinea pig 2 years ago and at that time they dropped the price from $399 to $299 and that's when i told you all to get one ....And have no problems with mine at all and was very happy with its quality

zedman240 , just saw the picture of your injection set-up in the for sale section .Saw the air temp sensor mounted to the inner guard , Is it possible to run this system ( ITB) with closed loop ? Or do you just run with throttle position and revs ? thanks for the help .

Thanks for the reply zedman so are you saying you've just got it mounted to the side of the inner guard ? I thought it should be mounted somewhere on the the inlet manifold so the temp being taken by the sensor was of the air that is going into the motor .eg inside the manifold .

Hope to be converting to ITB injection soon . Anyone who is already running ITB could you please help by telling me where you have fitted your air temp sensor if possible a photo would be great thanks all

will post pic asap bumper comes fitted with internal mounts. no holes to drill or modifications required as far as i can see. still haven't fitted the bar to the car yet. mounts for number plate are also fitted

Hey I bought one of those front bars off e-bay $299 + $60 p&h sounds abit pricey but when you get a reco price its only way to go . saw these for $499 at the start of the year then went to $399 ....get them now while they are $299 .... Came very well packed virtually arrived the very next day after payment and great guys to deal with I'm very happy but still haven't gotten around to fitting it yet So I guess I'm the guinea pig lol

Brake problem is now solved, have had my brake booster rebuilt and all is good. The brakes have a full, firm pedal and stop the car very well, balance feels good. No thanks to the brake specialist who originally vacuum checked the booster and told me nothing was wrong with it!!! At home in the shed I made a tee piece so I could plumb a vacuum gauge into the booster line. By doing this I found that vacuum was lost when pressure was held on the brake pedal. So, as first thought, brake booster failure. Thanks to all those that replied, all is good.... what does this say about professionals? Sometimes you've got to go with your own gut instinct

zedman: Have checked and adjusted rod length when i installed cylinder it needed to be legthend: About 5mm. when idling with brakes on...hard pedal let brakes off and car will roll. nzeder: My prop valve is located on firewall brake balance feels okay. Fronts will lock before the back. While driving at speed 100 km and then braking once off the brake there seems to be no brake drag. Question: I'm running a fairly lumpy cam, I don't know what specs (Duration and overlap) I'm thinking I'm not getting enough vacuum because of over-lap. Any of you guys running cams come across this? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies regarding the 7/8 MC have heard this information about removal of the valve on the rear break when changing to discs I do not understand why this is needed when you look in the manual and the front discs also have the same valve fitted in the MC and as mentioned the 15/16 MC should already be adaptable to discs as the 280zx are already running them....brakes a very responsive when driving requiring very minimal pressure pedal is only hard when vehicle is idling .There is absolutely NO sponge in the pedal yet the pedal is about 100ml from the floor . Any more suggestions?

I also thought it was a vacuum problem because the pedal goes rock hard Ive changed the valve and have had my brake booster checked for leaks and was assured that there was no problem with the brake booster. I also checked it with a vacuum gauge and also looks fine to me What next? Thanks ???

Have upgraded my brakes.. Front - 4 Spot callipers - Hi lux Rear - Disc conversion using pintara discs and callipers Mastercylinder - Upgraded from 7/8 to 15/16 The problem .. The brakes are very aggressive the require very light pressure to work but when the car has stopped and the motor is idleing the brake pedal goes rock hard giving you the feeling the car will roll away. How do I stop the brakes from being so aggressive? And why is my brake pedal going rock hard when motor is idling? Thanks.