sid280

Painting a car can be done really cheap provided your willing to slave your ass off sanding. You can hire a spray gun for under $100 a day which is all you will need if you plan it right, and some decent automotive paint should be under $100 for 4L - dont use crap even if its a temp paint job because you will have to strip it all off later on. Pickup a can or 2 of a undercoat with some kind of filling agent in it, and spray a thick coat of that over any minor scratches then sand down flat, it should remove small scratches and marks without a problem and make the final paint job alot nicer with little cost / effort. On top of that it cant be picked up by a magnet unlike bog, so people cant accuse you of using bog anywhere Sand down all your patches with a 300 grit wet and dry sandpaper (wet) and give it a very light coat of undercoat followed by some 800-1000 grit also wet. You can do all this before you hire a spray gun and just do all the final work - 2 coats, over 1 sunny day. Make sure you use 1200 grit over the whole car before you spray the first top coat, and use 1200 again very lightly before the 2nd coat. If you still have time (and money) clean the spraygun and put a coat of clear over the whole lot. All the sanding gear should cost about $20 as you will only need a few sheets of each type of sandpaper and a rubber or cork block. I forked out another $100 in beer and had the whole thing done about 3 days with a Cortina Wagon with LOTS of dings. I have a spraygun at my parents house with an automotive nozzle, so if you want to meet up and do a spray job let me know because I need one too, and its easier to do 2 cars at once. Sid.

I just got a plate welded onto mine since i know i'll need to change to cable throttle instead of linkage. Looks nowhere near as nice as the one on that 240. Cost me $50 for the TB at a wreckers, and about the same to get an adapter made up and welded on.

For Noltec N51945 N81147 N11044 N12075 N21135 N91045 N61946 N61948 $370... This is using only 1 radius rod bush, no 22mm sway bar D bush (will come with whiteline bar), and the non adjustable bushes for the Rear trailing arms. You will be hard pressed to find a better price on those parts, i promise.... For Superpro SPF1215K - $55 - F Control Arm SPF0050K - $15 - F Steering Coupling SPF0033K - $30 - F Steering Rack Mount SPF0927K - $40 - F Radius Rod SPF0246K - $65 - R X-member Sid

Fronts are exactly the same for the 240z / 260z After 06/1974 (or a 2+2) the rears are not the same. However we have adapted the 240z rears into the back of a 260z without much of a problem. We use Z31 300zx Koni's in the front of the 240/260z, as they are externally adjustable. Hope this helps

Waz @ Zworx on Beach St in Mordiallic (spelling wrong?) is where I go for ALL my Z parts. I used Centre Road Wreckers when i did up a Cortina and I'll 2nd everything blue_leaf said AND add that theres MASSIVE spiders all over the place, no joy. Pick-a-Part in Camblefield at the top of Sydney Road isnt too bad at all, picked up a Front 1/4 panel, front bumper, side bumpers, rear side bumpers, a mirror and a bunch of inside parts for a 910 Bluebird for under $200. No-one knew we smashed it..... If you can get a hold of the www.partslocator.com.au magazine you will find more parts than you can poke a stick at, including L28 Turbo parts, L28 Diesel parts and a decent amount of import cars. For Imports only, East Keilor Wreckers has one of the biggest ranges i know of, lots of RB Parts, 1JZ, SR's and other little bits and peices. EKW - Phone: 03-9274 4444 66 Emu Rd. West Footscray (Maidstone) Melbourne, Australia, 3012 www.ekw.com.au Hope this helps

Hi Brian, just ask for Sid.... or the guy with the 280zx... Although the odds of me NOT answering the phone are pretty slim.

ARRR heheheh - As of last week i moved into a new place with my OWN mini workshop (Garage), but the workshop i was referring to is GT Suspension down in Flemington as this is where i spend my days working... 9376 0777 if you want to contact me at work.

Hi Brian If you want to meet up in Essendon tonight I'll take you for a spin in my car which is 35mm lowered - and THEN decide if you want to have standard height or lowered springs... Installation will be between $50-$150 depending on where you take the car, our standard price is $100 a pair for installation however i do good deals for Z Drivers Basically, Rear springs installed, including the springs is $200, drive in drive out - and we'll do a full inspection on the vehicle... Sid280 (1982 280zx with T-Tops, 17s and minor engine mods)

Hi Brian I spoke to Lovells Springs on the phone today and they have standard height and raised front springs that will fit in the 280zx. They are in stock and I can offer a 35% discount on 240z, 260z and 280zx springs - or about $220 a set of 4, I also have my old standard springs sitting in the workshop if you want you can have them for free and see if they work for you. Thanks Sid280

Hi Brian Lovells do Lowered, Standard Heavy Duty and Raised / Cargo springs for the rear of the 280zx so if you want to replace just the rears you could use the standard height ones. They only make lowered front springs though - 30-35mm lower. I'm not sure about Kings but I'm running their lowered springs are they are very firm, i'm hoping swapping to Lovells will make the ride nicer. Eibach USA make some springs for the 280zx but they are once again lowered and will need to be imported from America (not Germany where Eibach is manufactured), and if your going to import springs you might as well import some Tokico Illuminas which have a very good reputation in the states as a reliable and quality setup. Lovells or Kings springs will cost between $250-$350 a set of 4 depending on where you get them, Eibach's or Tokico's you should be willing to spend about $1000 to cover all customs and shipping costs. Otherwise, get some custom springs made up (Brooklyn spring works? Browns Springs?) - Not sure about the cost, we use Lovells at the workshop and they cost around $300 a pair for custom springs and take 4-6 weeks, this is an expensive option but is handy if your looking for a specific design. Hope this helps

Its got an F54 Block / N42 Head, and from the best of my knowledge Waz @ Zworx has been working on the car most of its life, until i started tampering with it...

I know this is an old post, but i need to say the L28E is better than some of you are saying, for starters i've had a $35 pod filter dangling out the front of my engine bay for over a year now without a problem, i havent even cleaned it and its still running sweet. As for 105kw ? are you serious? Thats at the wheels doing 5500rpm, completely stock, with a dodgy clutch and 2 deg advanced timing (factory is 8 deg adv). Since then I've fixed the timing problems, put the pod filter on, muffler (stock pipes still), big leads / plugs and leaned out the mixture a little on the AFM. Now it chirps my 235/45/R17's into 2nd without a problem. Also, for those interested, at dyno time it was running standard 7/11 lead replacement petrol (blue line), but on the 3rd run we added the NOS branded Octane Booster that came with some injector cleaner pack i bought, its the green line and if you look REAL close you can see its actually made a 0.02% increase in power - wow. Go the L28E its a great motor, its (mostly) reliable and it will bolt directly into your car so there is more potential for performance because you wont need to engineer it and can spend your cash on go fast bits. If you are going to use an RB30 avoid the GM models, they overheated more due to design flaws (GM stamp on head, radiator mounting position).

I spotted a black 260 at a servo in Preston (melb) one night about 6 weeks ago, had exhaust and wheels but it was an auto, the guy behind the counter said it was for sale and its a staff members car who was going to be there the next day..... I'm going out that way today so if its still there i'll check it out. edit: fixed typo