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mjfawke

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Everything posted by mjfawke

  1. i still have a shed full of bits he never came back to collect. The two CR gearboxes (one steel, one converted to Warner) weren't part of the deal, and neither was the viscous R180 setup. The E31 & block are there as well. I really should chase him up...
  2. Update - the car was sold two years ago... Last I heard, he changed the starter motor without disconnecting the battery and shorted the battery through the EFI harness and ECU. It no go at that point. No idea what happened afterwards.
  3. No worries. I LOL'ed at the "DIY type" comment, because owning a 40+ year old car pretty much guarantees that you either a DIY type or you have very, very deep pockets. The car is now off the market while I fix all of the issues. I'm disappointed there isn't much interest on this site, because I didn't want to sell it to some 20+yr old with more money than sense who will write it off within a week. Reminds me years ago (early 90's) of a very clean and original 240Z that got bought by a kid from the local rally club who within a few weeks had broken a rear strut sliding it into a kerb... then used it as a setup car for a forest rally.
  4. Bottom of the front guards in the only place I know it has rust. And the PO. cut out the top of the airbox inlet to clean up a small rust hole. I was slack with this car, I never had the front guards off, so I don't know what the front of the sills look like. This car lived around the Albury/Cooma district before coming to Canberra, I knew the previous two owners.
  5. Some old photo's.
  6. Can do. Anything in particular you want to see?
  7. Give ZSpares just sold an absolute rust-bucket which had an asking price of $9.5k and needed floors, roof, guards and everything behind the diff replaced... I think that's a bit below what I'm prepared to let it go for.
  8. Well - the wife's car got written off two weeks ago and the insurance money won't buy a decent replacement, so the 240Z has to go - $8K as a rolling shell (without the diff), $12K complete with 12 months ACT rego. Either way, the spares can go with the car. ONO. Happy to negotiate. Michael. 0414 685 464.
  9. Take existing carrier, take to a machine shop, have additional slot cut at 180 degrees from existing slot. Or get one from an Auto box or from one of the other Nissan boxes that had the locating tang on the opposite side.
  10. Just an update... currently registered, but when I started driving it again the motor appeared to have had a small coolant leak from the front cover, I'm guessing it's coming from the pump and running down inside the front cover. But the last few weeks I've been driving it, it hasn't misbehaved again, so I'm not sure if it actually needs attention.
  11. Still for sale. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10801.0.html Price negotiable.
  12. And if you do swap a box, just remember... not all the tailshafts are the same. There were two-piece tailshafts for the really early boxes, and (on the later ones) some gearboxes have the dustshield and some tailshafts had the dustshield. You also need the shifter to come out in the same location unless you want to end up trimming the floor and finding a new way of doing the shifter boot.
  13. I had to do the brake test as part of the original conversion (weight changes affecting braking blah blah), but after cooking the front brakes big time... vented conversion. Brakes are awesome now... but not mentioned on the engineers certificate. Which brings back to the self-certified. If it's the same components as the "sports option", why not argue the point that it's the factory kit? You could buy the cars with the front vented conversion in Japan, the only difference with mine is that I'm using a replacement disk (Brembo).
  14. +1, it's a box-out job. For whatever reason, a selector sleeve isn't where it is supposed to be. And don't try and tow the car, I'd jack it and pull the tailshaft before trying to move it. Or disconnect a half-shaft. Plus... fix your clutch. Most likely that the master or slave has leaked fluid, or the clutch diaphragm has failed (unlikely). Even more unlikely... someone unlocked the nut on the clutch master push rod and it's wound itself in.
  15. Annoying thing for me is that the only thing that isn't engineered is the brake conversion to vented. Swept area and piston area are unchanged, it just went from a 14mm to 27mm wide disk. It will take all of 20 minutes to test it and write it up.
  16. The "I don't drive my car" rock. It's being used as a "semi-weekly" now, gets driven two or three times a week to work while I iron out the problems. I'm trying to work out if I actually need to get the brakes engineered or if I can do it as self certified as it's basically the FIA 4-spot vented brake package which was available in Japan as a purchase option. I've been told $1200 for a certificate, in which case I'll be refitting standard rotors and calipers. I have a window regulator assembly to fit, I'm still sorting the door locks (key barrels), I need a door lock assembly (ex-US at this point), after which it just needs a new exhaust (thin) and four new tyres (old & the rears are a wee bit worn ).
  17. Mine's still for sale.
  18. I like the external water pipe, years ago I talked a mate into doing that setup on his turbo motor because the previous engine had lots of damage to the head from excessive temps around the chambers. We modelled it off the pictures from the crossflow L head (or was it an FIA head... can't remember). As an example of how bad the head had been corrorded, the return feed to the water pump near No.1 spark plug had about 1mm of metal left. Probably a combination of pump cavitation and nucleate boiling around the exhaust valves.
  19. mjfawke

    ID type of L28?

    A very, very belated reply. Yes, I wasn't thinking. The F54 block as used with the P90 head has coolant flow slots cast in the webs between the cylinder pairs, as opposed to the earlier F54 blocks.
  20. O.K. - I admit I've been out of the scene for a while, but now I'm trying to get the car into a saleable state I find that every supplier I used to use in Aus seems to have disappeared! All-z-parts website... gone, and given the hassles of trying to buy stuff over the phone from Warren in the past, I don't want to go there. ZSpares website is gone, and the associated zshop site hasn't been updated since 2008! The ZCarWorkshop website redirects to some random car article list. Should I just start ringing around the old numbers, or is there a current list or reputable suppliers? Or have they all been replaced by EBay?
  21. Car is still for sale... ... if I fix everything up and sort the engineers cert., price will go up accordingly.
  22. Still for sale... but lack of any requests for photos/details suggests nil interest here.
  23. Checked over, put rego sticker in car...... Yeeeeeeeehaaaaaawwwww! I'd forgotten how much fun this thing is to drive. 24mm front swaybar, 20mm rear, 200lb/inch front springs = big gokart. Oh, and the 4.5kg CrMo flywheel does wonders for gear changes.
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