fluegel Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 I have just checked the uni joint at the diff end of the drive shaft on my 260z because I started getting a nasty vibration at 110kms, as I expected one of the four bolts had dropped out. I used M8 bolts with a hex head from nissan because that is what I originally found on the car. I now suspect that these are the wrong bolts for this uni joint I found another set which have a round head with a flat on one side. They fit nicely in place with the flat against the casting to stop the bolt from turning. Are these the correct bolts for the taleshaft uni joint to diff flange and what do I need to do to keep them from undoing, would locktite be a good idea? The pic shows the bolt as well as self locking nuts which I found in the same bag would these be the correct set and does the star washer have anything to do with things. Richard Quote
nizm0zed Posted October 31, 2012 Posted October 31, 2012 the star washer is a good 'anti vibration' washer. However, following a more modern path would also work well. Use a Nyloc nut (nut with the nylon insert in the head) to secure the whole assembly together. The nylon cuts its own thread and holds secure, resistant to vibration, however they are 'theoretically' only good for one application. In practice you can undo them and re-tighten them, so its not too bad. It depends on what is available easily to you, either will work well. As for the bolt, the round head with the flat side is (in my opinion) the best way to go about it, as you know the bolt will only go in one way and stay in place when you tighten the nut down, however saying that, i have regular 6 sided bolts in mine and they secure just fine. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted November 1, 2012 Moderators Posted November 1, 2012 That is the right bolt for the tail shaft but wrong nut. That's just a "whizz lok" nut and they aint much good. Ultimate lock nut is a "Glenlock" nut which uses two metal tabs that bend out when tightening but when you go to loosen, the wedge up against the thread and side of the nut preventing movement. Expensive, as a box of 100 cost around $300. They are used on 2 piece brake discs (disc / hat bolts and nuts). Factory setup was just a spring washer and nut as the load was on the thicker part under the head of the bolt (shear or radial) rather than the bolt head/threads. Just make sure you torque it to the correct figure and it should be fine. Quote
fluegel Posted November 1, 2012 Author Posted November 1, 2012 Factory setup was just a spring washer and nut as the load was on the thicker part under the head of the bolt (shear or radial) rather than the bolt head/threads. Just make sure you torque it to the correct figure and it should be fine. I have used the "wizz lock" nuts and locktite . Torquing then to correct figures was guesswork , how do you adapt a torque wrench to work a ring spanner? I will have to take them apart again anyway because I need to replace the diff front insulator. Richard Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted November 2, 2012 Moderators Posted November 2, 2012 Oops...sorry! They weren't just spring washers and normal nuts, they were a small flanged nut only. I was thinking of the half shaft bolts. If you have any "crows foot" spanners, they can attach to a small torque wrench. But like I do, just tighten them up almost VFT but back off a touch.. Quote
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