FYI

[desertmonkey]

Would this work? A lower left rear bushing is worn and clunking so I was going to use a nut splitter on the one side and tap the shaft out and chisel out the old shell. The bushing is the one at the inside rear of the lower arm where the exhaust crosses over. I would keep it in position with a floor jack so I could insert the new bushing and shaft at both ends and just put a new nut on and torque it. Does that sound like a way to go?

[luvemfast]

Generally those bushes are in TIGHT.

You'll need to press them out ideally.

But I have seen people burn the rubber out, then cut the outer shell.

[desertmonkey]

After looking at it again I see two brackets secured by four bolts like a sleeve could I support the arm and remove the entire assembly bushings and all and work on it in a vise? As long as the arm is supported by a jack with a section of 2X4 it won't go anywhere.

[desertmonkey]

I shall buy a butane torch and burn them out I just hope that bolt comes out easy

[desertmonkey]

According to the service book the inner part of the rear control arm is supported by two brackets and the bushings sit inside. If I support the control arm and remove the brackets one at a time I can melt the old bushings and apply heat to the bolt and bust it loose. Does that sound like a good plan?

[xa1973]

As long as youve got a handle on the process, wheels chocked, body supported etc there will be no issues....keep it real and slow and dont forget some never sieze when you reinstall the new bolts...

[desertmonkey]

Good news the brakes are now working fine and the E brake has been redone. The rotors and pads will need to be deglazed. The bushings that were dry rotted have been replaced. Now comes the body work and paint. Will be posting a link to phots on Photobucket soon              Thanks