desertmonkey

Good news the brakes are now working fine and the E brake has been redone. The rotors and pads will need to be deglazed. The bushings that were dry rotted have been replaced. Now comes the body work and paint. Will be posting a link to phots on Photobucket soon Thanks

The new booster works and so does the check valve but now it feels like the fronts are dragging at times. I did not adjust the rod to the M/C and the rod to the pedal has roughly an inch play before the brake lights go on. When I pump the pedal with the engine off I feel it stiffen and hold pressure. After I start it up she goes down about 6 inches and I hear the squishing sound from the booster not a hiss. Perhaps I just need to recheck my settings after I take a run around the area.

Just replaced the master cylinder and booster but I just aligned the rod to the pedal and after a few drives it feels like it's grabbing on accel. I noticed a lot of brake dust on my rims in front. I will take a short run today and raise her up and spin the wheels and see what it feels like. Perhaps I need to rest the pedal travel and also therod into the M/C.

bolt on spacer for brake booster to firewall on datsun 260z Google Images on page 3 shows two boosters and one has a spacer. Do I need that spacer for a proper installation?

Tomorrow I will get another booster and test it off the car but I have no spacer so I may have to manufacture one somehow. Perhaps I can come up with some aluminum stock and make one.

The old master cylinder leaked into the booster and now both are ruined. I purchased a reman booster and master cylinder and forgot to remove the spacer from the old booster. Once the two parts were on the car we have a hard pedal and squealing front brakes. My vacuum gage shows a steady 19 inches at idle and no change when braking. It seems that I am using the master cylinder and not getting any booster action. I have two new check valves and hoses and no apparent leaks. The system was powerbled and when I tested the booster with engine off and restart the pedal did not move.

According to the service book the inner part of the rear control arm is supported by two brackets and the bushings sit inside. If I support the control arm and remove the brackets one at a time I can melt the old bushings and apply heat to the bolt and bust it loose. Does that sound like a good plan?

I shall buy a butane torch and burn them out I just hope that bolt comes out easy

After looking at it again I see two brackets secured by four bolts like a sleeve could I support the arm and remove the entire assembly bushings and all and work on it in a vise? As long as the arm is supported by a jack with a section of 2X4 it won't go anywhere.

Would this work? A lower left rear bushing is worn and clunking so I was going to use a nut splitter on the one side and tap the shaft out and chisel out the old shell. The bushing is the one at the inside rear of the lower arm where the exhaust crosses over. I would keep it in position with a floor jack so I could insert the new bushing and shaft at both ends and just put a new nut on and torque it. Does that sound like a way to go?