RB26 engine mounts on an L

[d3c0y]

Hey Guys,

 

Has anyone tried fitting RB26 engine mounts. I saw it on a japanese website and it lowers the motor and they are a lot stronger just having trouble picking up the finer points. If anyone in bris has a pair they dont wont I'll grab them and report back on findings.

 

The goal is to run RB Nismo mounts apparently they are a good thing and my current ones are shot!

 

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww5a.biglobe.ne.jp%2F~satotats%2Fmakingofs30%2Fztop1.htm

[garvice]

Are you talking the rubber mounts or the aluminium section?

Might still have some of the rubber pieces but sold the aluminium parts.

The 26 parts are slightly different to rb30 ones (what I ended up buying because they were so cheap)

[d3c0y]

The rubber bits in the middle. From what i could decypher from the translation the RB ones are less prone to collapse, are strong and lower.

[garvice]

I'll have a look, not sure the benefit would be that great though. It will modify your driveline angle resulting in needing to lower your diff nose.

[d3c0y]

Yeah i was thinking that might be an issue.

 

On that blog they also lower the front crossmember with a 1cm spacer plate, which would make the lowered suspension geometry even worse but i think they mention that.

 

Could you just space the nose of the diff down an appropriate amount?

 

[garvice]

The diff is supported from below standard, you can't space the diff crossmember down because it sandwiches some bushes.

You can make a whole new mount though. Not hard, just got to keep it in mind.

See this link

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9260.msg91562.html#msg91562

[d3c0y]

it would only have to point down a few mm to get the angle right though wounldn't it?

[benny]

if you were to use the existing GB Mount I cant see why you would need to drop the diff. Your not lowering the entire driveline just the motor!!

[garvice]

I had to lower mine a good20-30mm. Depends how much the front of the engine gets lowered though

[garvice]

Benny that is why you have a problem, because you are moving the front of the engine without moving the gearbox. Ie you are changing the angle of the engine/gearbox in relation too the duff. They will no longer be parallel. If you lowered the gearbox mount too then you would be fine. Think it is easier to lower diff though. Brad

[Roberto]

If you attempt to lower the L series engine, you will have the engine sump hit the crossmember and steering rack.  There is only about 5mm clearance to the steering rack clamps as is.  Then you also have the risk of the oil pump hitting the sway bar.

[d3c0y]

One partis lowering the crossmember too. You can do it thought the guy in the link i posted has done this and has used the RB26 mounts in it.

 

Since the tail shaft has two unis, does it really have to be exactly in line too? Is close enough good enough?

 

Roberto have you actually measured this or are you taking a guess?

[Roberto]

No, I haven't actually measured this with an instrument, but trust me it is very close. When I changed my steering rack bushings, the clamps nearly touched the engine.  At the same time i upgraded my front sway bar to 25mm and it hit the oil pump. I spoke to MSA about this and they said I should replace my engine mounts as the old ones will have sagged over the years.  I did this and everything clears but not by much. 

 

If you lower the crossmember and steering rack by the same amount as your engine you will be ok.  As for the sway bar, that can be lowered a little bit too but best to take measurements on your own car as the 240Z sway bars were thinner than the 260Z bars. Good luck 

 

 

 

[garvice]

^Your engine mounts sit on your crossmember. Lowering your crossmember will not help the clearance between engine and crossmember. I'm sure you could use the rb26 engine mounts, but if you are trying to use them to lower the engine you should jusy bold your own mounts. Having two units is why you want them parallel (so they don't run at different speeds). there are tolerances to which you can run unis though.

[peter mc]

REBERTO is right if you have a aftermarket sump it can not go any lower ,it will hit

[d3c0y]

Looks like the idea is canned  :-\ ah well at least it generated a bit of discussion.

[garvice]

Don't let or criticism crush your ideas. Just trying to point out that very few ideas are simple, cheap and effective.

 

Just remember the formulas.

Cheap and fast = not reliable

Cheap and reliable = not fast

Fast and reliable = not cheap

[d3c0y]

Oh i totally didnt take it like that! It's all good!

 

I just check the forum pretty regularly and there seems to be an extreme lack of technical discussion at the moment. Thought i would just throw a couple of threads up like this that interested me to get some discussion of the tech heads going.

Just never ending threads about people wondering why their +30 offset wheels dont fit and if they can run 10" wheels without flairs...

[Riceburner]

I did the rack and engine rubbers on my 240 a month ago, like Roberto said it is very tight. I actually had to jack the motor slightly to get enough room in the drivers side.

 

With the RB type could you make a spacer plate so they are the same height as stock ones? It could be a good source of cheap stiffer mounts 

[d3c0y]

Yeah after re-reading the article that's what i took as his reason for doing it. $350 for Nismo mounts.