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Posted

My stock master cylinder leaks a bit, and I've bought a 1" for use with whatever brake upgrade ends up happening but as thats awhile off, i'm wondering if there's any real issue with using the larger master cylinder in in the mean time with just the stock brakes

 

I assume the pedal will have about 25% less travel as it has roughly 25% more area? or is this not how it works?

 

Cheers

Posted

Youd be going from 7/8 ie 14/16 ths to 16/16 ths ie 1 inch, pedal will be harder will cause braking effort to occur earlier in pedal travel, and pedal wont travel as much as your used to.

Yes you ,ay get front lock up, but the car should still have fitted the brake proportioning switchy thing, along with the rear brake line pressure reducer thingy, which stops the reats from locking as easily.

When you fit it, let us all know, but only when safe conditipns, hey maybe do some before and afyer vids?

Posted

i made a thread on this exact subject earlier this year. i tried the 1" (for forward thinking reasons, same as OP) and it was really hard to brake. ive since fitted a normal m-cyl because i found a new one for sale for ~$75. have yet to drive the car though.

Posted

Thanks guys, i'm a bit confused as to how it would change the proportioning at all, maybe i'll just try to get the car through a roadworthy with it as is then worry about it

 

neRok where did you managed to find a new one for $75 for?

Posted

Proper proportioning means using a pedal box, where the brake pedal operates two individual master cylinders at same time, by varying the master size of each, as well as using a screw in/out or more apt description side to side pedal pivot bar, allows more or less pressure to be applied to either side. Common race car practice.

 

The"proportioning"valve which is often mentioned, is more accurately a line pressure reducing valve, and is screw adjustable.

Our Zeds come with one, but, it is a fixed rear line pressure. By removing rhis and fitting an adjustable, we are able to increaee/reduce the amount of pedal effort affecting rhe rear brakes, it wont do anything for the fronts, if we use our normal master.

 

Why fit it? So we can "balance"the car a little better under brakes.

I like to have mine with a bit more rear pressure to nduce a touch of lock up going into cornets( race Group Sc 280z) in this way the guys up my arse crsp themselves, dont know wtf i am about to do, they back off, and i get 10 feet further in front, also rear drums need a bit more bias as the front stock calipets and discs cant handle race situations, so, why not get rhe back to help a bit more!

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