RB25 Oil pan for 240Z

[garvice]

Jamo,

 

How deep is your sump?

I am making one for my car and due to how low I have set my engine, it will definitely be below the crossmember. I ummed and arhed for a while about how deep it was, but my gearbox bellhousing sits that low too. So even if my sump was higher, I would still hit the bellhousing.

[jamo240]

Righto ladies

 

Here is the finished article, sans a bit of deburring and cleaning up before it goes to the platers.

 

Although I haven't done it on this engine because it's not running big bearing clearances, you can also add mesh (like coarse metal flywire) to the top of the windage tray (in between the vains) to help control splash as the oil comes off the rotating parts. The oil flow rate from the crank/rods increases a lot as you up the bearing clearances, and the mesh can settle down the spray and foaming; a bit like when you squirt a garden hose at mesh...it kind of diffuses the flow and gets the oil back into circulation. You want to set it up about 5mm from the upper surface of the tray so the oil goes thru it and then flows across the 5mm gap back into the surge chambers.

 

Garvice: The sump is 130mm deep from the pan rail to the bottom, as measured along the crank centreline, and on the plane of the bores....sorry for such a complex answer, but RB engines are canted in the body, so the depth varies across the width of the pan.

 

Cheers

 

Jamo

[garvice]

Cheers mate,

 

Completely understand your definition. Sounds a touch shallower then a Z200R sump.

Below is a picture of a Z200R sump beside my sump. Made mine 140mm deep to start with.

[jamo240]

Garvice

 

Yes, the Z200R is a good deal deeper, though I can't be blowed going downstairs to measure the difference! I took one look at it and knew it was no good for what I wanted. I could of course have cut the bottom out of it and then shortened the pickup, but then it would have had too low a volume, and I would have been back into making a custom, so I decided to just finish off the Patrol-derived one.

 

I set my RB up on the same crank centreline and rear-face-of-block location as the standard L series. I did think about moving it back a little, and perhaps 25mm further rearward would have been nice. But at the time, I did not have a spare car to measure up on, and was concerned about whether the gearbox would fit in the tunnel if I moved it too far back. I never contemplated lowering the engine as it's not a race car, and I didn't want to deal with driveline angle and exhaust ground clearance issues. The whole point of my build has been to build a refined 500hp 240Z. It needs to be quick, and it will be, but I don't want all the shakes, rattles and whines that go with race cars.

 

Good luck with your oil pan...it's certainly a beefy bit of kit!

 

Cheers

[nat0_240_chevZ]

Hey Salty....I meant donor RB sumps...not L series sumps (as in out of a 240/260/280C). I would need donor rear bowl RB sumps.

 

I think Nato 240Z was going to make some RB sumps from scratch at one stage too...don't know what happened there though.

 

Yep still alive mate,

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7897.0.html

was my original build, lifes getting the better of me at the moment,

have it all ready to make, just busy with a rotisserie strip down to bare metal and renos .....etc

but need to get it back under way soon, not interested in proceeding if i dont have a car to put it in....lo

nat0

[jamo240]

Good to hear old mate!

 

I hear you on the need to have a car to put the sump in. You might just have to explain to the other half that the reno's have to go on the back burner.....I told my wife that I can sleep in the car but can't drive the new kitchen, so the car comes first. She then told me I could prepare the next 240 dinners in the workshop, so you should use that line with caution.....

 

Anyway, my sump is sorted now, so that job is out of the way. Looking forward to seeing your finished article though...the patterns are promising if the internals are sorted out properly.

 

Cheers

 

Jamo

 

 

[garvice]

Hey Jamo,

 

Another question about your sump, this time in relation to your cover plate.

What did you use to secure the plate down? Looks like some sort of screw/bolt?

 

I was contemplating nutserts, but not sure how they will go with vibration.

[jamo240]

Hey Garvice

 

I weld M6 nuts onto the underside of the frame, then use button head cap screws to hold the cover on. You probably could use nutserts without any problem, but your cover would sit the width of the top flange of the nutsert above the frame, and hence you will have a gap where oil will leak from under acceleration/cornering forces (although I suppose you could put some silicone sealer in the gap if you wanted to). From memory we did used to use either conventional cap screws or bolts with holes drilled through the sides for lockwire on the race engines, but I'm not sure it was required...more of a safeguard as no-one wanted to find out it was necessary 7 hours into Bathurst! I have not worried about the lockwire for this engine...it will just have 262 loctite on the button head threads when I put it together for the last time. It should be back from the platers this Friday, so I'll do some final pics of the whole lot back together. Oh....I also have to drill the hole for the dipstick!

 

Cheers, Jamo

[jamo240]

Well folks....here are some pics to draw this 'how to' session to a close. Stay tuned for the next episode where I'll show you how to make a muffler!

 

Cheers, Jamo

[jamo240]

And a couple more....

[Scando]

Very nice finished product.  I've definitely got some good ideas from this thread.

Thanks mate.