maddos Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 On my way home from Wakefield a fortnight ago my car overheated in the last half hour of the 4 hour trip. Let the engine cool for half an hour and topped up with probably 5 litres of water. Ran the last half hour home with no problems. Checked radiator level next day and was probably 2 inches below full. At the time was blaming a faulty radiator cap possibly letting a bit out at a time as when I was giving it a wash when engine was barely warm noticed it bubble a little into the overflow bottle. Tonight took it for a drive into town 10 mins each way for pizza (not important). When I got home started looking at the oil pressure/ water temp problem which had decided to start fluctuating at Wakefield. Manual suggested if both varied, problem is likely voltage regulator inside gauge, so swapped gauge. Checked radiator water level again and was about 2 inches down again. Topped up again and ran engine for probably 15 mins while checking gauges. So now to my point after this long winded (for me anyway) tale. When running engine, my exhaust was extremely steamy and didn't seem to get any better. I pulled all the plugs but they all looked perfect. Checked oil, again perfect. Checked water level in radiator after cooling for about 5 min but was still full but didn't overflow any when pressure released. Put this down to water still being hot. So my question is, has anyone heard of (or had experience) of the head water jacket leaking straight to the exhaust somehow without leaving any other trace? Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted March 10, 2011 Moderators Posted March 10, 2011 The head can corrode in any number of weird places...have you tried running the engine without the rad cap on? Does it erupt like Mt St Helens? Quote
nizm0zed Posted March 10, 2011 Posted March 10, 2011 the coolant is 2 inches down from the very top of the cap? or from the normal coolant level? VERY important to clarify that one... On the older cars, they use an non recovery system in the radiator, they require an air gap in the top radiator tank to allow for expansion of the coolant. If you fill them to the top they'll purge out the excess (normal) till they get tot he level they like. If you have fitted a recovery tank AND recovery type radiator cap, then they will like the radiator filled to the brim, with the expansion space in the overflow tank itself. As mentioned, run with the cap off, look for tell tales like oily slick on the coolant surface, excessive bubbling, caramelizing ect. If you have a exhaust gas sniffer (or access to one) you can sniff the coolant for traces of exhaust gasses from the cap, helping to diagnose a blown gasket. last time i looked they were a cheap tool to buy, a good investment if you want to play with older cars. Quote
xa1973 Posted March 11, 2011 Posted March 11, 2011 Youve done your head gasket................ Pull it down...put some bearing blue over the head edges and rub it down with some 200 grade over a sheet of glass this will bring up any defects, you may need it machined Quote
maddos Posted March 15, 2011 Author Posted March 15, 2011 I was hoping not to hear that I started it yesterday and no steam but didn't warm up fully. Just need to get it roadworthied before I do anything serious as my rego is due in a fortnight. This always happens around rego time Quote
maddos Posted March 31, 2011 Author Posted March 31, 2011 Roadworthy done today so time to take a look. Quote
luvemfast Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 How did I miss this thread? Correct, you have a blown head gasket! Oh wait, you know that now......... Looks pretty standard to me. Good luck with fixing it up tip top. Quote
DAZDA Posted March 31, 2011 Posted March 31, 2011 Well the steam certainly cleaned the carbon off #6 piston for you. Quote
maddos Posted April 1, 2011 Author Posted April 1, 2011 Beautiful isn't it. Wish I had a bit through every pot. Quote
luvemfast Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 Beautiful isn't it. Wish I had a bit through every pot. Be careful what you ask for................... Quote
maddos Posted April 1, 2011 Author Posted April 1, 2011 Do these numbers mean anything on the end of the cam? Quote
maddos Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 I have got the engine back together and running but I stuffed up along the way and hope I haven't created another problem. When i first put the head back on I had the timing chain marked to the sprocket so as not to mess it up. However I stilled managed to. What i did was put the sprocket back onto the cam onto number 1 when it came off number 2 when I pulled apart. Prior to firing engine in this first attempt, I did a compression test to make sure everything seemed right. Compression was fine and engine turned over fine without any issues. I then completed putting everything back together and fired up. Ran fine but sounded like a diesel around the head area. After thinking about it overnight, I removed the tappet cover which is when I noticed my error with the cam sprocket. As I was trying to rectify, I managed to forget to put my chock back in and so began the whole process of timing cover removal and we all know what a long story that is so won't go into it. Second time round did the same thing turned engine over to check compression all good. Fired up again and I swear it sounds too noisy around the tappets. Hoped it was oil related so went bought new oil (same HPR30 as came out previously was in it) still sounded fairly noisy. Took for a test drive and drive and accelerated fine but could hear a tapping noise at cruising speed. I'd put foot on clutch while cruising to hear tapping go when engine revs dropped. I didn't touch anything on the head when I removed it only gave it a bit of a clean up and had no noise before pull down so don't really suspect tappet adjustment is the culprit. What I am wondering is if when I had the sprocket incorrect would there be the possibility of bending valves when I couldn't near any contact whilst doing the compression test? I'm hoping if they can't physically contact when engine isn't firing that they can't have been damaged when engine was firing. Please someone put my mind at ease. Quote
maddos Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 Just had a good chat with Peter Mac. Hopefully I can get it back on track with his advice. Quote
xa1973 Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 Just had a good chat with Peter Mac. Hopefully I can get it back on track with his advice. In brief for all to share...? Quote
luvemfast Posted April 17, 2011 Posted April 17, 2011 In brief for all to share...? It will be private now......... Want to know why? Because Someone is a d!ck and drove one of the best L series builders and tuners underground. And now we don't get the benefit of learning his thoughts. Quote
maddos Posted April 17, 2011 Author Posted April 17, 2011 Okay, briefly. I've been steered towards timing chain noise after a short checklist of other possibilities. Something I neglected to mention (Peter) was when I went in for the second time I removed the slack-side chain guide ::)don't know why thought it would make easier to put chain on or something. So after our conversation I pulled out the old How to rebuild.. Tom Monroe. I know, good time to start reading after the fact. But noticed it sounds kind of critical the adjustment of this. I thought I installed as removed going by bolt marks on guide but could have been out a bit. Could this also be a contributing factor? Quote
maddos Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 They say a pictures worth a thousand words so here's a short story. Here's some pics I took yesterday prior to reassembly. And below are some pics I took today when investigating. Hope you can make it out ok. From what I can tell everything appears as described. Hope something jumps out from the pics. Send me a message Peter if you want me to give you another bell. Quote
maddos Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 That look better? Restores your faith in mankind when a total stranger actually calls YOU up to help with your problem. Can't thank you enough Peter Quote
maddos Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 here's what it sounded like when I first reassembled. Quote
maddos Posted April 19, 2011 Author Posted April 19, 2011 Just about got it all back together tonight. The family's getting back from 10 days away and I'm pretty keen to spend some time with them, especially the wife. Hopefully tomorrow night she'll be ticking over with less chain slap. For those interested, the slack side chain guide I removed and replaced in what I thought was the original position is most likely my problem. Pete got me to adjust hard up against the chain then release tensioner which was cable tied up. Quote
PZG302 Posted April 19, 2011 Posted April 19, 2011 The family's getting back from 10 days away and I'm pretty keen to spend some time with them, especially the wife. Hopefully tomorrow night she'll be ticking over with less chain slap. so many lines.......... Glad the engine is now running as it should. Quote
maddos Posted April 20, 2011 Author Posted April 20, 2011 Running much quieter now. Haven't checked the timing yet or valve clearances but it's on my to do list. Took for a drive and there's a small noise which I'm not sure isn't a bearing. Will take a/c belt off tomorrow and see how it sounds. Thanks again Pete. Now just need my extractors welded up properly and I might be game to do the drive to Goulburn Sunday. Quote
peter mc Posted April 20, 2011 Posted April 20, 2011 Good to hear nice to be able to help a fellow z fan Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.