Any tips for sump re-sealing? about to re-install turbo sump on L24e

[DatPilot]

Im about to install a turbo sump on my L24e,

 

I have a new sump gasket, and genuine Nissan sump bolts to suit too.

 

Any tips or pointers on making sure it seals correctly? I have no idea whether to just use the gasket by itself, or to use a sealant aswell?

 

AND, while the sump is off, anything I should look out for? (I will be giving the oil pickup mesh screen a good clean out) I was thinking to so an ARP bolt kit while I was down there....

 

10 PSI here I come!

[Scoota G]

There are 4 points on the sump that require sealant, where the rear main cap bolts on and where the timing case joins. Give the sump a very good clean and keep the dust out of there. You could also check play and if you're fitting new bolts you can check condition of the bearings.

[Six_Shooter]

If the engine is fine, leave the rod and main bolts ALONE. You should only ever replace the bolts on a new assembly (re-build/build). I have had a couple friends now run into problems because they thought they'd be "While I'm in there..." Crushed bearings or worn quickly bearings were the result. These were pretty car savvy people too. Engine builds were not foriegn to them.

 

When I replaced my oil pan the last time, I used a new Nissan gasket, and lightly coated the entire gasket, on both sides in some RTV. I did this mostly to hold the gasket in place, but also to help provide a slightly better seal than just the gasket alone.

[DatPilot]

Cheers for that.

Good advise!

 

Ill save the ARP bits for when I build the L28 frankenmotor. (thats for when I grenade this L24e)

 

' oh sorry wife, i was driving along and boom.... now i need a new engine'

 

' oh ok hun, just nothing too expensive'

 

'....ripper...'

[kobes]

Ok, I have bumped an old topic, as rather than start a new one, to show i try and look for answer first and people might get some help of this.

 

I am needing to replace my OIL PAN gasket on a 260z L26, as there seems to be a small leak at the rear, have purchased a ACL easy fit gasket, and about to start the adventure of replacing it, are there any tips / tricks / suggestions an experienced hand might like to give?

 

my main questions are

1. is a normal fibre washer used around the sump plug?

2. when installing the new gasket, what sealent is best used?

3. the tightness of the bolts when doing up, can you get away with just doing them up tight? or do you need a torque wrench?

4. Any other tips or tricks appreciated.

 

P.s I do not have a car lift, will be doing on the ground or at best with some car ramps.

 

Thanks

Kobes

[nat0_240_chevZ]

use sealant,

clean all faces thoroughly,

ensure sump faces is flat, ie not bent from removing or doing bolts up too tight.

apply gasket sealer i use blue permatex on most stuff except exhaust.

apply with your finger, smear it around and make sure its even.

apply to sump first, lay gasket onto sticky sealer, then re-apply to now the clean face of gasket, (use a couple of sump bolts downward through gasket & sump to kep it aligned with holes so it doesnt flide off when applying)

Again make sure its a nice even spread.

let this sit for 5-10 mins to allow it to go a bit more goo-ey.

apply to sump, only use say 4-5 bolts evenly spaced around the sump, only do them up finger tight, IF THAT.

grab sump and wiggle it, this will spread the goo over the gasket and sump.

install all bolts, all finger tight if that, ie use a screw driver with a 10mm socket, but not tight, not even firm.

once all bolts are in, wiggle again.

then leave for 20-30 mins for the goo to go even more tacky/solid. (this is so when you do them up, with your hands, the goo does not spew out of what you are trying to seal.)

Only tension bolts to a light hand tight ie about firm on a screwdriver without haveing the driver jump out of a phillips head screw, or to advised manufacturers spec, but most torque wrenches dont go this low unless you have a 3/8 or 1/4 drive torque wrench, which most dont.

 

hope this helps, most sups i install without any gasket, just sealer, in a similar fashion to above,

main idea is to let it tack off well before doing up, or sealer just gets squished out and does nothing.

nat0

 

[kobes]

Thanks Heaps

 

That answer was perfect!

 

Have my xmas Weekend Job sorted

[DatPilot]

I overtightned my auto trans sump (at 3:30am before a 1300km trip), and made the bolt holes in the gasket expand enough to let the fluid leak out... no fun.

 

screwdriver tight is a prefect explanation....

[nat0_240_chevZ]

yea well its how i do it....lol

use a 1/4 driver with a small screw driver handle.

although lately i been using my snap-on electric screw driver, i set the clutch to 1 then 3 and thats it,

also clutch is a bit more consistant over 30 odd holes

nat0