PeterAllen Posted April 25, 2014 Posted April 25, 2014 I have a question to ask about adjustment and cutting the struts for fitting the rear coilovers. My query is rather detailed so I would like to contact someone who has actually fitted them, i.e not someone who had them fitted. Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 26, 2014 Author Posted April 26, 2014 Thanks Paul… You’re probably just the person to advise on this as your car is probably lowered significantly. I have removed the spare tyre well and I’m running narrow, high aspect ratio tyres to keep a period look on the GTO. The rear tyres are 29” dia. This allows a huge lowering capability while retaining over 100mm ground clearance. The installation guide on the Arizona Z site suggest retaining 3 ½’ (85-90mm) of the strut tube, but, where the adaptor sleeve is welded onto the tube depends on individual ride height requirements. To get the lowest ride height on my car (100mm ground clearance) the threaded adaptor sleeve needs to be welded almost touching the hub carrier (like the front struts), i.e. 50-60mm lower than the starting position recommended in the instructions. Also, with the shock screwed as deep as possible into the adaptor sleeve there appears to be about 50mm of safe height adjustment (up). A couple of questions: Am I going about this the right way, i.e. working from the lowest ride height upwards? Is 50mm enough ride height adjustment or am I likely to want more? Quote
Ledge Posted April 27, 2014 Posted April 27, 2014 HI Peter I cut mine 25mm lower than Dave says on his How To page. I found its about spot on for what I need. I would probably cut them at the length specified and put them on the car with no welds, and no springs then get the car and tyre to the height you want with jacks and stands. Have the coil over exactly half way down the threaded section so you will have plenty of adjustment up and down from your desired ride height. If it is still to high cut it then till its right, Tack weld it like that in the car then remove and fully weld. Because the rear has the long bolt through the bottom I would definitely set it up in the car dry and tack weld in place. you wouldn't have to be out by much to put extra load on the rear arms. Front doesn't matter that much as it is a ball joint on the bottom. Hope this helps Regards Paul Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 27, 2014 Author Posted April 27, 2014 Thanks Paul. I agree, I think it has to be done on a case by case basis. I'm running the 250lbs/inch (5kg/mm) springs which may also vary from what you are using and could make a difference. Quote
benny Posted April 27, 2014 Posted April 27, 2014 peter do you already have the kit?? There are much better coilover options available these days that are base height adjustable, the weld on coilover sleeves dont have a whole lot of adjustability. Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 28, 2014 Author Posted April 28, 2014 peter do you already have the kit?? ... Yes, I've had them for years just sitting in the lounge room (along with the Wilwoods) waiting until I could fit them. The AZC's are base adjustable as I understand it, however, I need a different datum point to that recommended by Dave. Quote
benny Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 My mistake peter.. I thought the AZC were just a weld on sleeve like the otomoto type. What you've got will be a great setup. Quote
PeterAllen Posted April 28, 2014 Author Posted April 28, 2014 No worries Benny, I appreciate the interest and input. I've been busy today attaching the sleeves to the front hub carriers. Rather than the AZC approach of a single weld I've followed the advice of a Kiwi on here and prepared for a series of rosette welds in addition to the circular weld at the base. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.