trev

you still have to door cards?

hi all thinking of getting some new wheels for my Z, but just not sure what size. currently the car has 17x7 with pos16 offest running 215/45/17 tyres. these barely clear the suspension on the front... maybe 10mm at best, very hard to measure the rears have no issues at all with clearance, but i would like them to come out toward the fender edge a bit more. they seem a little inward to me. thinking of performance superlites or ROTA RB in 17x7.5... but what are other members experiences or recommendations for best sizes? the superlites now apparently have a rough sand cast finish, not the nice silvery paint finish... my choice of colour would be silver with polished lips thanks in advance!

hey gilltech... thanks for that. i think the upper plastic bush may just be an upper "bumper" to stop metal to metal contact when the damper piston extends. lucky me I have access to a machine shop, so may grab the remaining one and have 2 made from a nylon material. I think ally would be too hard. then I will have a go at rebuilding on the bench first with oil and see how they feel... after all this, I am now going to have a look at the rears too!

hey everyone so I pulled apart the wet legs I removed on the weekend... see what I found inside! on the DS, seems to be in pretty good condition aside the discoloration on the lower part of the shaft. the PS one seems a little worse for wear with the plastic stopper from the mid part (I guess there purely to keep the shock piston straight in the tube) had completely disintegrated which explains the shattered plastic parts that drained out with the oil! the lower plunger parts has a bit still stuck around it too. but should clean off. despite all this they both still seemed to "work", but I just thought it was time for an upgrade/rebuild. I gotta say I was surprised that these were in better condition than expected. I dont think they have been looked at from birth! now I debate shortening the piston rod to accomodate the lowered springs. my idea was to take about 40mm off the threaded top end, so to move the piston back to it original travel area within the inner tube with the lowered ride height? but will this stop bottoming out? or i just get a set of bump stops for the outside. and yes, i also have the issue that when unloaded, the lowered springs sit shy of the top hat.. about 30-40mm short all good once the car is the ground... just dont get airborne! but I figure taking 40mm off the piston rod may help with this issue too? pics mainly for reference of anyone wanting to see inside these without having to pull them out of your car! but 1 question: does anyone know where I could get the new plastic bit???

what i will mention is the oil was very black and very stinky!

hey guys success in a way... i managed to extract the old dampers and now have fitted the KYB's... on your advice, locky i have not discarded the old "wet legs", if they prove to be serviceable i will refill and replace them again... ended up not being that difficult when i used a bit of slide hammering to get the old dampers out! in any case, its ready to drive again!

Hi guys thanks for your responses. yes, I am trying to pull out the original oil dampers and replace with KYB inserts. if they are just supposed to slip out, perhaps I need to pull a bit harder! they seem to be a bit stuck. i am guessing they have been in there for 40+ years! will try again and let you know how it goes

Hi all many years ago, i replaced a front set of oil dampers with KYB shocks... they simply slipped into the front damper housings... I bought a set of these 9 years ago and have finally gotten to changing them out in my 260z, but can anyone advise how to remove the guts of the damper? i cant remember what i did last time as it was probably about 25years ago! i have removed the front damper, taken off the top retainer cap, but not sure what to do next? thanks in advance for advice

hey everyone well going to put my hand up for being a bit daft after all that it appears if a plug has failed you dont get to signal down a lead... i assume because it has no ground? in any case problem solved.. car is back running on all 6! lesson learned... and maybe valuable for someone else BTW the plug "looks" fine... i guess they can be deceiving. in the bin it goes! thanks god for a bank of spares!

thanks dude.... its got me stumped unless i just lucked out and both dizzys have the same prob. but i guess if they both have the same issue, its further back? the coil is almost brand new though (GT40) but def the first one has collapsed. i pulled it apart a bit more and the half circle of plastic retainer and ball came out. so now basically the stator jams the rotor i still have an old points dizzy... but no resistor type coil. how much of a danger would it be to run the points dizzy without resistor? or run the resistor with the GT40?

you mean 123ignition??

hey guys update to this, i found i had a spare dizzy, fitted it and have the exact same problem... misfiring on no2 also tried diff cap and rotor, and even tested and swapped lead to no2 with no change but with the timing light i get signal through 1, 3,4,5,6, just nothing on2! any ideas?

i am pretty sure mine has died broken plastci bearing retainer and stator off centre, found ball bearing loose and magnetised to side of stator! can this be repaired? if not i am hoping to buy one in good running order let me know thanks