Moggie

Iv just got both my breathers running to a catch can filled with steel wool and a little filter on it. Or if you want to keep a simular setup as if you were running a pcv. Weld a tube in at 45deg in your headers collector and connect the crank case breather to that. That will draw air in through the top breather and out throught the cranks case allong with all the crank case gases. The hot exhaust will burn the oil vapor aswell.

I got just under 500km to the last tank of 46L to fill up and that was highway driving street driving mostly spirited because iv been loving how well it goes now compared to the SUs

Yes definitely need an airbox because i know the rear carb will be running leaner because the air will be hotter. Im going to tig one up out of alluminium when i get a chance.

I went the 40s because all the people I spoke to said not to go 45s for a street car. Its only a mild cam so i decided against the 45s ot not all about peak power its the area under the power curve and this pulls well from 2500rpm throght to 6000rpm. Im really happy with the 40s thus far I will get it on the dyno next week and see what she is putting out. My wife has an r34 skyline with an ls2 putting out 290 rwkw so thats the car that normally hits the track, when the wife lets me haha. But if I decide to track this z and I find the 40s arent flowing enough il just put some 36mm chokes in.

Do you still have the steering wheel? Also do you have a poc of it please.

I Thought id share my experince with going to tripple webbers on my 260z,because alot of people said not to go tripple webbers because of drivability and fuel ecconomy on the street. After doing my engine rebuild (2.7L 9.8:1comp cam ect) After the rebuild i could not get it torun right on the twin british SUs so i got them rebuilt, got trumpets for them and new k&n filters. $400 later they were better but ran too lean with the new setup. I looked into new needle and regrinding the ones that were in there but then decided to bite the bullet and triple Webers because I was sick of messing with the SUs. I bought brand new 40 dcoe 151s with redline manifold and linkage. At first it ran rough so i advanced the timing and bingo it was sweet straight out of the box. With the standard jets that were in the carbs the car drove beautifully with only a slight hesitation as you stab the accelerator. The mixtures are a little rich around 12.0-12.5 under load and 13.0 when cruising. I have put in larger idle jets and it fixed the hesitation as you stab the accelerator. Im still yet to fit diffent main jets to lean the mixture out a little just because it is driving so well at the moment, every spare moment I get im driving the car haha IMO the webers are way better than the SUs even when they were running right on the old engine. With the webers the car drives better when cold with no choke needed, has instant theottle responce, more torue down low, way more top end power, fuel economy is about the same if not better and did I mention the sound! All of the cons that I heard with tripple webers I have not experienced. These carbs drive beautifuly on the street and have not let me down in any way yet. Any way just me 2c.

As title states, I also dont mind if it a remanufactured wheel. Im located gold coast but happy to pay for postage. Thanks Ash Txt 0402337794 or PM

Are you serious or taking the piss haha, Im presuming taking the piss because it cracked me up, either way they are going in because red makes you go faster If you are serious I think red is acceptable seeing Nolathane brand is red.

On a positive note I received presents in the mail, full bush kit, Arp head and Rod bolts. The block has been dropped off to the machinest for acid dip, rebore and hone. Going flat top l20b pistons 85mm bore. Even though the engine was rebuilt 20k km ago the previous engine builder didn't clearance the bores enough for the new oversize pistons and both the pistons and bores were scuffed up really bad. Everything else is perfect though.

GongZ after a manic 30min of hunting around the engine bay I found that thread and read it, so luckily it's still registered and the car isn't listed as stolen or written off and it still has matching engine to body numbers. The vehicle plate is basicly unreadable bsides the stamped number. Thanks for the info. The whole engine bar has been re sprayed in that anti rust ripple coating when the car was restored in 1998. So it was probably taken off than and forgotten about. Unfortunately that was 3 owners ago so I don't think Il be tracking it down. I can sort of see maybe there was 2 holes on the fire wall that could have been it. Thanks for the support guys haha I was thinking my mate and I got bent over, didn't even think to look for a compliance plate after we did a revs check

I can't find a compliance plate, am I screwed? Freeking out right now

Hi Richard, yeh we made it home only just lol, A few hours out of Melbourne started feeling and hearing clunks and then just got worse and wrose to the point when we were driving through sydney we went though a really big thunder storm and were getting blown all over the road with wind gust as the toe on the rear was wobbling all over the place. Everytime we inspected it more of the control arm bushes were gone lol It was nice meeting you and thanks for the chat.

Just looked through the history 2 owners ago the guy used to live in Highett Victoria so yeh not too far away

Thanks guys, Triptych how far along are you in your build? definitely see you around at some stage. A little bit about the car, Lucy is a 1974 model (im not sure what month or how to tell if is early or later 74) she is in pretty good condition but far from perfect but hey its over 40yrs old, with the car was a full history on every dollar that has been spent from the past 3 owners since 1998. The stack of recipes are over an inch thick In the history was all the pictures from when the car was brought back from the dead and restored in 98. which was a real plus for me The drivers side door is rusted at the bottom and also in the rear hatch seal. Also a few rust bubbles coming through around the trims. But beside that there no rust anywhere else. Back in 1995 all the drive line was refreshed and the engine had a full rebuild with balancing, a mild cam bigger exhaust valves and 84mm bore. Still has matching engine no. The interior is nice as it was retrimmed but unfortunatly not in std form. That so I can pass road worthy I am currently tearing all the drive line and engine down to replace pretty much everything as all the suspension was rooted and the diff, gearbox and engine are leaking oil. Body wise il fix the drivers side door for now and tackle the rest next year. When I tore the engine down everything looks good besides the bores are glazed so going hone or re-bore if I have to and chuck a set of flat tops with new rings in to bump the compression up a bit. I just had surgery on my hand so I cant do anything on her for at least another week so i find myself just sitting in garage looking at everything lol. Looking forward to meeting some of you guys.

I just thought id introduce myself "Ash" I was fortunate enough to recieve a 260z 2+2 for my 30th bday from a good mate. A 240z has been a child hood dream since my sister owned one when I was 8yo. My mate really wanted to get me a 240 but way out of his budget so he gote the next best thing. We picked up "Lucy" from tasmainia and drive her back to Qld. Pretty much evey suspention bush fell out on the way home but beside that she didn't miss a beat. We met a clubember on the boat back to the mainland and was great to chat with. I will definitely be trolling these forums for advice and knowledge. Thanks Ash

How did you go did they fit ok? What p/n did you use Im about to replace shocks in my 2+2. Thanks