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Sold! Keep an eye out for it back in Victoria

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Bump from the grave. Head gasket has now been replaced with a genuine Nissan item, head was decked and a small amount of corrosion was welded up in one of the water passages at the rear of the head, it was also leak tested and showed now signs of issues, the radiator has been repaired and it's retaining all it's fluids Rego has been renewed and is valid till late September 2014. Price stands but is now firm.

Original post updated to reflect recent events.

I'll have to remember this next time I meet a Ferrari Dino owner The screws holding the blade framework came loose and all I have left is the arm with nothing attached to it (and a dirty big scratch in my screen ) I know you can buy aftermarket wiper assemblies but I wasn't sure you could get the clip part that attaches to it as well, I assumed it was an OEM part.

Hey guys, I need a set of wipers. My passengers side one made a bid for freedom on the M4 in the heavy rain last week and tue drivers side wont be far behind it. Pm me if you have a set you can part with please? My bus is a daily driver so its kind of important :-\

Hey Lurch, you wouldn't happen to have a set of windscreen wipers by any chance? My passengers side one launched a successful bid for freedom the other night and the drivers side one looks like its about to follow suit :-\

No not stock ride height, tokico Illuminas that dropped it significantly (check the photos from the start of the thread ) having said that with these rims on it's jacked the ground clearance up again When I calculated rolling diameters I guess I didn't compensate for sidewall flex. Or just plain goofed. It's possible. The wheels are 17x9 -13 & 17x9.5 -19 with 225/45 & 255/40 front and rear respectively. No spacers

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [uPDATE] Just this week the poor old duck has blown a head gasket. It's not too bad, it still starts first go and only misses slightly at low revs (at idle mainly) and it doesn't hydro lock over night. I've just put a lot of hours and a few hundred bucks into fixing up a few minor issues, which I'll list in a sec, but I've just about had enough of working on it. Over the last few weekends I've; Replaced the faulty ignition switch Fixed the oil leaks which involved replacing rear "side oil seals" (incorrectly called "rope seals" in the OP) front timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rocker cover gasket (not yet fitted) oil pump and dizzy gasket, and i replaced front and rear mains as a matter of course (They were only 12 months old but I couldn't tell if they were leaking or not) new clutch slave new fan clutch and fan belt went to replace front brake pads but discovered they were fine, still have two new sets of old asbestos type pads that I'll throw in The car still drives fine but I'll have to replace the head gasket at some point but here's your chance to pick it up if you have the time and the energy to fix it yourself. I'm offering it for $13,000 negotiable as is with all the other bits and pieces listed in the OP. Price and negotiability will change when I fix the head gasket. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I couldn't honestly sell this outside of the Zed community as it is right now. There's a few small, easily fixed issues that might put the unversed off but those in the know it means a few hours labour and a small outlay of $$$ which I'm willing to do, but if someone is happy to take it as it is, aware of what it needs, I'd be happy to let it go. Anyway, on to the listing; MODEL: 1977 260Z 2+2 Manual. LOCATION: Western Sydney PRICE:OFFERS AROUND $16,000. Price and negotiability will change as I fix little bits an pieces. Updated to $13,000 in light of recent changes CONDITION: Fair to Good. Some parts even Excelent REGO June 2013 This is my daily driver. I'm just going to put that there. Sure, it's lacking here and there but it gets me to and from work, does the peak hour schlep into the city when I need to (which was once a week up until recently) and has done plenty of trips up to Newcastle and back loaded to the brim with my drumkit. I've put that out there first so there's no doubts brought up by the faults that I'm about to list. The Bad; It has rust. It's a Datsun so that's no shock. But as far as I can tell, and I've had this car for close to two years, it's very minimal. There's two decent size bubbles in the top of the passengers side guard. Easily repairable. It still has the holes in the doors for the old mirrors. Get 'em patched up at the same time as the rust in the guard and save a few bucks Engine isn't perfect. Reliable, but not perfect. It's jetted all wrong. Was dyno'd and rejetted by Stewart Wilkins but it's still not right. Could need rejetting or swap the 45's for 40's. It leaks oil. I know the rope seals in the rear main leak and it's leaking from the front timing cover, possibly due to poorly configured breather setup I am planning on fixing this soon, but as I said earlier, as is... The clutch slave cylinder weeps fluid, probably on its way. I plan on changing this when I fix the leaks. Might look at replacing the clutch too while I'm at it. Interior fan doesn't work Ignition switch is dicky, likes to turn itself off. I have a brand new genuine nissan replacement waiting to go in, 15min job Fan clutch is a bit old and cruddy. sounds like a hovercraft when you first take off, quietens down straight away though. Have a replacement unit for it waiting. Not all the bushes have been swapped to poly, just a few difficult ones in the rear end. Have the remainder of MSA kit to go with it. Speedo reads slow. Might be the speedo gear in the gearbox is the wrong ratio. Easily available and easy to swap, could be due to what I suspect is a K gearbox The Good; If you're still reading this far it has a lot of redeeming values. The motor, L28 (will post head/block specifics a bit later) with slightly higher compression (trick pistons, can't find details at the moment, will update), tripple 45mm webers on a redline manifold with K&N Filters Head ported to match carb manifold (36mm from memory) matching gasket made and fitted by SWR Rally cam, 42deg from memory, pretty mild. The body was resprayed by a previous owner and they've done a good job of it. Good solid paint with barely a dent (if any if I'm being honest) and only very minor scratches and chips (daily driver remember) Straight original rear bumper and brand new repro front bumper The really good bits on the body; Front Airdam, unsure of manufacturer but fit and finish is very good ZG Flares made by Restored supplied by Otomoto. Wheel arches have been cut (rear re-welded) and coated in what I assume is POR-15 or similar. Only bolted on with hex head self tappers at the moment. Would have preferred nutserts. Both of these items have been painted and fitted by Outer West Customs in Penrith just last week Genuine Nissan Fender mirrors, restored and supplied by a bloke that goes by the name of Affa operating out of Malaysia somewhere. He's on a lot of other forums and is a champ when it comes to finding rare second hand and NOS parts. MSA headlight covers that unfortunately don't fit very well and cracked the day after I fitted them but they still look ok and are only fitted with the double sided tape included in the kit so no harm if you were to take them off. JAF badge not included Wheels - 17x9 -13 & 17x9.5 -19 Rota RB-X wrapped in Khumo KU19 225/45 and 255/40 (I think?). Mild stretch on the fronts but nice and square on the rears. Fitted and driven to work for two days (15-20km round trip) and taken back off as the 5-0 get kinda active on the M4 and I don't feel like getting into a stouch over their legality at the moment. They are, of course, included in the sale. Fitted with KYOEI Project Kics Bullock lock nuts in black. Came as a pack of 20 so there's 4 spare. I'll throw in the old wheels because I'm generous like that Interior is very tidy, not mint but for what appears to be all original looks great. No tears in seats, unsure if they've been recovered or not, looks factory if it has. Has a dash cap but it's not very noticeable. Centre console is a bit beat up but it's functional. Has a CD player installed good news is there's no holes cut in door trims for speakers. Carpet looks to have been replaced and is in fair condition. Currently is rocking a 240K steering wheel as the original one was shot (as they all are) MSA Woodgrain 5-speed knob (not pictured) All the suspension bushes I could get to were replaced with the poly bush kit from MSA. The leftovers are included. Has Adjustable Tokico Illumina inserts with matching lowered springs. 12 months old, not many K's covered. HEEEAAAPS of spare bits and pieces, most important of which is the original L26 motor with early round top SU's. Motor was ok (will need a freshen up after being in storage) but the SU's need a rebuild. You'll want to take this with you as it's engine number is still the one listed on the papers Lots of odds and ends including the original front chin (bit wonky) and a pair of straight but poor condition bumpers. Heaps more than I can remember. But it's all included. I hope I've not been too long winded about this but I wanted to be open and honest about this car. It's not a concourse winner nor is it 100% perfect but it's a solid car that, if you were inclined, has a lot of potential. I plan on patching up the little issues over the coming weeks and will alter ad to suit. Open to offers and maybe even swaps for a more sensible (but still fun) daily. Don't be offended if I knock a swap back though as I'm a little picky on what I would like. My reason for selling is that I'm not doing this car or myself any favours using it as a daily. Plus After 2 summers and winters with no AC or working heater I'm missing the creature comforts of a modern car. Plus I feel it's just time to move on. PM me here with any questions, or contact ZERO FOUR THREE TWO, ONE NINE ZERO, FIVE FIVE FOUR (spelled out so Skynet can't find me)

Bloody heavy would be my estimate :-\

Finally! after months of fart-arseing around I've at last got the flares painted and fitted (incl cutting the arches. In for a penny....) I'm pretty pleased with the result Now that it's done though I'm a little iffy on the wheels. They're just too damn big in diameter! I've actually taken them off for the mean time as I'm still using this as my daily and I'd like to avoid a defect and with these it'd only be a matter of time I think. Anyway, with all that said I'm ready to sell it again. I just don't have the room or money for another weekend car and it's just gotten too out of hand for a daily driver. It's been fun but it's time to move on. I'll be posting in the classifieds shortly.

Does anyone know of any panel shops in the west Sydney area (or a reasonable drive from) with experience in doing the rear wheel arch chop and weld job required to fit flares? If so what were you charged? ive been in talks with Outer West Customs in Penrith but I would still like to shop around a bit. Problem I'm having though is a lot of people dont have any idea what I'm talking about or what's involved. Like I said the guys in Penrith that I've spoken to are OK (they did an alright job of fitting my front air-dam) but I'd like to know what options are out there.

So, erm... on Sunday I accidentally ended up in a car show Let me elaborate. I was recovering from a rather large Saturday night when I remembered that SDC's All Datsun Day was running out at prospect pub which is fairly local to me. So I pile in my Zed (keeping in mind that it's my daily driver, my only car) and cruised down. I pulled into the carpark and it's packed with people and many many gorgeous Datsuns (mostly 1600's) so I'm crawling through trying to figure out where to park when I bloke in a Sydney Datsun Club shirt waves me over and says "park it over there" pointing between a rather tidy 1600 and a really nice 1200 coupe right in the middle of the display! I tell him I'm only dropping in for a sticky beak and not entering the show (it was about lunch time at this stage) to which he grins and replies "doesnt matter! You're in a Datsun!" Alright, I figure. What the hell. So I back it into the spot just opposite Stiva's embarrassingly (for me) hot (and low!!) sled and a pants tighteningly clean and original 300ZX Turbo complete with beige and maroon velour interior and digital dash and wonder how long it'll be before someone notices my crappy rims, rust bubbles and derp-face bent front bumper. Didn't need to wait long it turned out, but not quite what I was expecting. I'd barely finished parking it and people were grinning at me, taking photos and then some guy asks me to open the bonnet! Surprised the hell out of me! Luckily I had washed it a few days before but it was little more than a quick rinsing off of all the dust that accumulates on it at work and a pretty half arsed wash at that. So I left it there with the windows down and bonnet open. I even caught a few more people checking it out a bit later. I didn't hang around long, the heat was not doing my hang over any favours and I managed to pick myself up an afternoon project while I was at it too! I bought a new repro front bar to replace the afore mentioned derp-face bumper I was rocking. The result has transformed the front end of the car and I'm no longer embarrassed about people seeing it! Before: After: Like I said, huge difference! I enjoyed my albeit brief entry to All Datsun Day and it's given me a bit of encouragement to press on with the old duck.

For the sake of stating the obvious, the search button would have been the best place to start. and while you're at it read this But for the sake of not coming across as a douche heres a snap of my bus wearing 17x9 -13 front and 17x9.5 -19 rear. They clear the strut towers by a fair amount and protrude the standard guards by a good inch. The flares are only taped on for dry fitting but they are needed for this size. Offset and tyre size are all crucial factors in choosing a rim/tyre combo. Happy hunting.

225/45 fronts and 255/40 rears They have the same rolling diameter as each other and if I've calculated right (HAH! math? me?) they should have the same rolling diameter as the stock rim/tyre combo. At least I hope so, I'm so sick of my speedo being wrong. Also worth noting is the fronts have quite a pronounced amount of stretch, but the rears are almost square to the rim, just a smidge narrower. I could have gone 245 rears to match them but honestly I'd rather not have the stretch at all but I did it on the fronts to keep the tread with down (skinny arms, y'see?) Also while I'm at it, the fkn headlight covers all cracked around the screw holes last night, one of them is quite a long crack too Didn't think I over tightened them but perhaps I did. Either way, not impressed.

Yes I did and I do remember you saying you had a bit of trouble with them too. In hindsight that's probably why they were offering them on their eBay store. Not a big hassle, I don't need to bend them that much for them to fit, I'm just worried its going to pull the tape off. I didn't really want to screw them into the buckets but I might need too. Oh well, to quote someone from here "its only metal, it can be restored" although these are made from fibreglass aren't they?

Next lot of new parts to go on. Headlight covers I know they're not to everyone's taste but I like them, I think they finish of the front end properly. They're only stuck on using the double sided tape for now, I'll see how well it holds. I did notice that they're not moulded quite 100% right, they're a little mis-shappen and you need to rely on the screws to pull it (as close as possible to) in line. There's a few gaps here and there but its not too bad. If I have to take them off again I'll try to colour match the brackets, I don't really like them in raw aluminium.

Oh, I forgot that I took a few more photos. For those of you curious about strut perch clearance here's the front: And rear: Heaps of room. To recap, the wheels are Rota RB-X, fronts = 17x9 -13 offset, rears = 17x9.5 -19 offset. Heres another shot of that front wheel. Again, not quite square on and the wheel is tuned slightly but it does show where it's fouling on the guard:

BULK PHOTO DUMP (In case you were wondering why your computer just started swearing at you ) SO after a bit of a wait my wheel nuts finally arrived. The cruddy wheels I have at the moment have gawd-awful shank style nuts whereas the new Rotas use acorn nuts so I had to wait for the set I ordered to arrive (Side note: has anyone else had similar problems dealing with VisionR in Perth?, I mean, I don't want to write them off but there was a hold up both times I've ordered from them. First the wheels took a few weeks longer to an email blunder and now the nuts took a few weeks extra because their web store filled its shorts :-\ ) I took a few shots with and without the flares bodgily taped to the car. Now, does anyone think my Castor is out in this photo? Have a good look at that front wheel, I think it's way too far forward. I noticed this back when I replaced the shocks and redid all the bushes. Is it possible that the poly bushes I put on the castor rods is too thick and its pushing the whole lot forward? It's actually making the fronts foul on the bottom (front) corner of the guard where the apron meets it. The bushes that were in there were already poly but they were much softer so I swapped them out anyway, I think I still have them so I might swap them back. I got a little concerned at this point. The wheels were sitting too far outside the guards to not run flares, but I didn't think they sat out far enough to fill flares. But I needn't have worried, they sit real nice with the flares, not flush with the edge of them but I don't mind (oh and I will be painting those drums black too when these wheels go on) And one more shot just for poser-points Sorry for the swarm of photos but I'm really excited about how it looks and I can't wait to get it all finalised and get these flares on properly. Still can't make up my mind about bumpers though, can't decide between chrome or black.... I've got some photoshopping to do.

Yeah I figured I'd rattle can it just to see how it looks. Pro Tip: Dont stick your arm across the poorly insulated out put on your new high energy coil while your car's running. Not unless you want your neighbours to think that someone is being brutally beaten in your garage

Thanks Gareth. Now the Jury's out on whether or not I still want to paint the bumpers black too. I'm thinking that they'll need to break up the black a little by being chrome Hmm...

Ok quick update. There was a bit of an issue getting the flares on so they've been put on hold for a little while however they were able to paint and fit the airdam which i think came up real nice Only crappy phone photos at the moment. The fit and finish is real nice. I took a punt on a piece on ebay from a seller called "mybodykits" and I'm pretty impressed. It feels nice and sturdy too. It seems to take the attention away from my bent front bar too which is a good thing. Hopefully the flares will get done soon (it was more of a time issue really) so I can get rid of these fugly wheels. Oh and if you're wondering what the chrome disc on the grille is, my JAF badge fell off :-\ Luckily I found it a few days later on the lawn

Optimus Prime face-palm does not do this justice. Ok, bright and early Sunday morning complete with hangover, lack of sleep and stiff and sore muscles from playing a show with my band the night before and getting home at about 2am, I went and picked up my old points distributor from my parents place (I don't have a shed. At all. All my parts are still in Dad's garage) and set about swapping out my electronic dizzy for the old points one to try and prove that the ignition module had failed. (thankfully) before I removed the electronic dizzy I tried to wind the motor around to #1 top dead centre to make it a little easier to set base timing with the other distributor and that's when I noticed it. I was fumbling around trying to get a socket to the bolt on the harmonic balance wheel (not made any easier by the fact that its a massive BMW unit, for some reason. Whoever built the motor put it on) and I was positive that I had the right size socket seated on the head of the bolt but I wasn't getting any resistance. The bloody thing was lose. Like, two or three full turns before the slack took up. I asked my partner to put her foot on the brake while I tightened it up so the car didn't rock as much and she jokingly said "wouldn't it be funny if this was the problem all along?" to which I replied "stupider things have happened, I'll try fire it up." just to entertain the idea. The bastard started. And idled. And revved freely. In fact, after a run around the block I felt that it ran better than it's run in months (probably down to the new coil, I don't think the other one was right) So it's now at the panel shop getting the new flares and front apron painted and fitted which I'm really looking forward to, as well as getting the new front bumper painted and bolted on. Of course I'm not letting if off the hook just yet. The timing is a little off still, not surprising considering I did pull all the guts out of the distributor. It's beautiful to get off the mark as it doesn't stammer and flat spot off the line anymore but if you plant it it goes a bit fluffy so I think the mechanical advance is going a little far. I'll stick the timing light on it when I get it back from the panel shop. Slightly off topic but is there a way to set up vacuum advance with webers?

This one's really throwing me a curve ball. So far I've; Changed plug leads (and plugs) Removed all the jets in the carbs and cleaned them Checked fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator made sure they're flowing Replaced coil (with new Bosch HEC 716) Checked Mechanical advance in distributor to make sure it's moving freely (it is) Repaired broken contact on back of ignition switch Hotwired ignition switch bypassing the mechanical operation of the switch itself Sworn at it (sometimes works, worth a try) And it still wont run. The only issues that leaves me with that I can think of is either the ignition module on the distributor has packed it in or the distributor drive shaft has jumped a tooth. Neither of which I'm feeling good about addressing as the former is more $$$ and the latter is work I dread having to do. I might just try and dig out my old points system and see if it'll run then, that way I'll be sure its the ign module before forking out the dollars for a new one.

No dice. One of the wires on one of the fusible links was a bit stuffed so I cut it, striped it back and re-soldered it back together. Don't know how long it will hold but it's solid for now. Pulled the tops off the carbs and gave it a good check over and everything was pretty clean except for the pump jets in the front carb. they were a little black on the ends so I cleaned them up. While I was in there I wrote down all the jet sizes just out of curiosity. Only things I couldn't get out were the starter jets (last time I did it I tipped the whole lot upside down on the bench) and the little valve in the bottom of the float chambers but they looked clean. Interestingly I noticed that the idle jets had different numbers stamped into them. Now i said different numbers rather than saying they were different idle jets as there may be something I don't know about going on there. They were marked as follows arranged by cylinder number; 1) 50F6 2) F640 3) F640 4) 6 50 (the number six was stamped above the number fifty with no letter) 5) 50F6 6) F640 Now I know thats not the cause of my issue but it is interesting, could it be the reason why it's always run rich? I started looking at the coil and the distributor after I put the carbs back together. I wasn't able to get a reading with a multimeter from the coil. I couldn't get the probes to stay in the connectors and get the car started and keep it running all at the same time. I looked at the module but theres nothing I could see (cracks or broken wires) but who knows, it's not more than 9 months old so it's not likely. however to check the ign module I took the dizzy cap and rotor button off to get a better view and thats when I noticed that the distributor shaft doesn't feel quite right. I can turn it a few degrees by hand, and it will stay where its turned to. Also, it sounds like its catching on something. Could it have skipped or broken a tooth on the shaft? I don't have a timing light here at home so I don't want to pull the distributor out just yet. I'll have to borrow dads on the weekend. Fingers crossed I've still got my points distributor at mum and dads with my pile of parts. Quick question though, can you get the shaft out of the engine while it's still in the car by removing the slash guard and swaybar?? I don't feel like pulling the motor this weekend if I can avoid it :-\