luke240ZED

Well I've gone with the HEMCO lap/sash static belt and they have installed perfectly. Both buckle stems are made for left and right specific so they fit spot on. I spoke to Wayne at the shop and he knew just the items I was after for my 71 Zed. Here's some snaps of all the products I received and a scan of the codes for anyone interested. Cheers Luke

What about the standard lap/sash seat belts for the 240z from HEMCO. Does anyone know the model numbers for these? Thanks for the info guys.

Hi Guys, I seriously need to sort out my current seat belt situation. The magnets or something are just not holding like they used to and I can be driving along and the seat belt just falls open. So far I've found limited information on HEMCO seat belts. Does anyone know the model and sizes I need for my 1971 240z? Can the inertia ones be an option? Perhaps someone has a spare pair they no longer require? Any ideas would be great. Cheers Luke

SOLD. Thanks Larry

Sale pending.... Thanks for the extra info dat2kman. Cheers Luke

Hi Guys, I was going through my Zed parts over the weekend and I found this solid diff mount with adjustable stops. I bought it for my 1971 Zed from Alan at the Z car shop in Brisbane a while back and have never installed it. Not sure how much it's worth. Make me an offer. Cheers Luke

The pertronix is in and I am very impressed. Only a 5 minute install once the old was out, turn of the key and we were off. The idle is a lot smoother than the XR700 module. This could also be the new coil (GT40 3.0 ohm) as well but either way it's a big difference. The response is fantastic. I didn't think there would be much of a difference between the XR700 with the high output Echlin coil and this new setup. A big thumbs up for the pertronix. Now I hope this one lasts the next 10 years Cheers Luke

Hi Kent, If your going down the Weber path with your L24, spend the time and research what others have done. There is a bucket load of infomation out there and eveyone has there own specific ideas and settings. I run triple 45mm DCOE's on my L24 with a mild cam and some head work. My settings below are just as a guide as there is plenty more out there, for example in this thread from the states: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/ Model: 45 DCOE 152 Choke 32 Aux venturi 5.0 Idle jets: 50F9 Main Jet 130 Emulsion Tube F11 Air corrector: 160 Pump Jet 0.45 Fuel pressure @ 3psi Cheers Luke

After much reading I've gone with the Pertronix Ignitor matched with a new Bosch GT40 3.0 ohm coil. I like that simple setup keeping the original look. I'm interested to see how it compares to when the XR700 was in good working order. The HI6 setups are pretty serious, so I'll save that idea for when I do an L28 one day. Thanks for the help guys. Cheers Luke

Will I notice a performance difference over the XR700? I don't think I need a rev limiter at this point as I'm not that serious with new gadgets on old technology. Maybe stepping up to the XR3000 as I won't think I need change anything that's currently installed and it should be plug and play. More thoughts? Thanks for the ideas guys. Cheers Luke

I'm new to the ignition area, will that still work with my standard 240z dizzy? What are all the components required? Cheers Luke

Hey Ash, Hope your well. All the goods are finally in and the brakes are sweet Pulls up extemely well now with the Hilux fronts and R31 rears and a reconditioned master. I was probably more impressed with the steering! With the new ball joints, tie rods and nolathane bushes, I have no shake at all in the front end. I thought it was the steering rack but now I would say it was the old stiff ball joints. Now, my XR700 ignition has just crapped itself after 10 years which is pretty good going in my opinion. So I am looking at buying another. Can you get a hold of these and if so, what price can you do? Cheers Luke p.s. a few pics of the final install

The booster is back in the car and it looks sensational. I finally have the brakes I was dreaming about before I headed into this conversion. Took her for a strap today to bed them in, but because I have done so much else under the car during the past 3 months the brakes were not the star today... After getting new the ball joints, tierods, nolathane bushings throughout the front end, the steering is just beautiful. I had a bit of a wobble before, thinking it was the steering rack and since the upgrade it feels so smooth on the highway with no wobble at all. Well worth the time and effort. Thanks again for all your help guys, I really appreciate it. Cheers Luke

Just dropped it off this afternoon at STOP Masters at Brendale. They refurb them on site with a full sand blast and paint inside and out all new seals and kit for $275.00, Should be ready in 3 days. You beauty! I'll be pulling up hard this Christmas

Do most good brake shops have the kits to refurb these things or are they a special order job. Because everything else is new in that department I would like to follow the trend. How much do they cost?

Hey guys, About 3 months ago I ventured into the front hilux 12+8 vented front brake upgrade, followed by the R31 rear upgrade after my brakes gave out on me driving home from work one afternoon. I did some investigating and found a rear line and front line to be dry and no fluid had been passing through to the caliper and drum, obviously for some time... No idea why I had not noticed this. So while I was under there I thought I would give her some love and replace all the bushings with a nolathane kit from the states, get both hilux front and rear R31 calipers reconditioned, all new brake lines, new JB1419 master cylinder, new matching shortened clutch cylinder, new ball joints, new tie rods and new rotors and pads. After all the metal fabs and lines have been prepared and it was time to put it all back together. This is where the fun started. I'm not sure about the other who have ventured into this mod but I must say every time I have had to troubleshoot something throught this journey it ended in bleeding the master cylinder and brake lines. I must have done this five times by now, wondering why the peddle was soft, the pressure wasn't there or it just felt too squishy... maybe just a bit paranoid because it is the brakes and all. Today I happily signed off on everything only to test the brake booster and THIS was a problem. It worked just as well if the car was running or not. Now I've added some pics for someone to help me either replacing or refurbing this booster. I was so keen to get it out and back on the road only to find this probably being the major issue in the first place. Any help will really be appreciated as she hates being on stands in the garage Cheers Luke

Perfect mate. I've done one side and I must say I think the next will be much easier after working out the grinded angle bits on the strut so the bracket sits flush. I'll take some good photos to post here to explain this part better for the other guys heading into this mod. Cheers Scoota

Come on Scoota, my grinder is awaiting your video. Now should I mount them at 12 o'clock or at 10 o'clock towards the front using the opposite sides caliper??? I'm sure a nice video could solve this Cheers mate

I have seen this thread, the modded plates that went between the calipers looked pretty damn serious. With the tools in my shed, certainly not an overnight job. And as for Gareth's call, "I think 50% of the 'bolt on mods' I've done have been anything but bolt on The bad thing is it's only discovered after the car is in bits." This is spot on at my house mate. My Zeds been up on stands now for 2 months as I problem solve my "bolt on" mods, but with the help I'm getting in here, the light is now at the end of the tunnel Cheers Luke

Scoota, could you take some pics of your rear brake setup please. In particular the orientation of the caliper and the handbrake setup. I finally got around to getting those brackets done. Found a great bloke locally with a C&C mill, made it a breeze. Cheers Luke

So I've had a bit of a tinker with some stainless washers to find if I use only 3 x 1mm washers between the hub and the rotor bolts it all shapes up pretty well. I will however need to widen the gap in the caliper as it's only got about a bees packet either side. See in photos. What's the best way to widen that gap? Probably only need 2.5mm either side. Cheers Luke

OK, so I'm almost through my front brake conversion and after all the machining, drilling, grinding etc... only to get to the moment of glory where I bolt up my new calipers and THEY DON'T FIT !!! After even more reading I now see that if the calipers are the S12+8 for vented rotors, I will need the 260z rotors to make the 9mm difference in the offset that my original 240z hubs have not. Does anyone have an alternative solution to this conundrum or does anyone have a pair of 260z they could help me out with Thanks guys Luke

Hi MagyZ, Is it just a matter of milling down the caliper tab 9mm to make them fit or is it a bit more complicated. I've got a good contact locally with a C&C mill that could do this, I would just need the specs. Any help would be great. Cheers Luke

Hi, I am almost through my front brake conversion and after all the machining, drilling, grinding etc... only to get to the moment of glory where I bolt up my new calipers and THEY DON'T FIT !!! After even more reading I now see that if the calipers are the S12+8 for vented rotors, I will need the 260z rotors to make the 9mm difference in the offset that my original 240z hubs have not. Please help me with my dilemma. Progress so far is here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9932.0.html Cheers Luke

Hi Guys, I'm having trouble locating someone to weld up the holes on the brackets, hone out the centre to 86mm and cut them to sit between 9 and 11 o'clock for my Zed. Preferably on the Northside of Brisbane, or I could probably post them to someone who has done this mod or a workshop they used. Roughly how much does this rear bracket fab cost? Cheers Luke