bens1088

55Ws are typically 10-15% brighter than 35Ws (which is pretty bright already). What bulbs are you using right now? We're using H1 bulbs in these kits. Our manufacturer's 5000K is really about a 4700K. Our 5000K is a pure white with some yellow hue in it. http://imgur.com/bJODEwn

On a side note, is anyone familiar with any parts dealers in AU? We'd like to get a distributor/dealer in AU to eliminate the painful shipping charges for you all. Would welcome any suggestions! Thanks, Ben

Hey guys! Sorry I'm not on this forum very often. If I don't reply back quickly, please shoot me a quick email at ben@dapperlighting.com. I NEED to finalize the RHDs by the 3/23 at the latest! These are custom orders and need more time than the rest of the units. We need at least 5 orders to make this happen. We also need to decide who the order will be shipped to and that everyone consents to that person accepting their order. Once we ship the units out, we can't be liable for what happens to them after they arrive in AU. We have no problem shipping direct but the cost will run about $75-85 with insurance. Here are the responses and the group buy list for RHD: 1. Kirby260 Not Paid (Halo/Chrome) 5000K 55W HIDs Shipped to AU w/Agno (RHD) 2. Agno Not Paid (No Halo/ Chrome) 5000K 55W HIDs- Shipped to AU (RHD) 3. Candy33 Not Paid (No Halo/ Chrome) 5000K 55W HIDs- Shipped to AU w/Agno (RHD) 4. OZ001 Not Paid (No Halo/ Black) Shipped to AU w/Agno (RHD) Did you want to add a second set? Just a heads up, this is our V1 kit. The V2 kit will look slightly different. These are H1 bases. You will receive all wiring for an HID kit. The only part you would need is a set of H1 bulbs. You can reuse your ballasts as long as they are AMP/Aftermarket plugs. Did you want to confirm? Like I said before, you will need H1 HID bulbs. You can use your existing ballasts (if you have HIDs). All sets come with halogen bulbs regardless of ordering HIDs or not.

Unfortunately none of our units have auto height adjustors. You can also run our kits with halogen bulbs and still have a significant improvement over stock light output. We can make a special order for RHD. We just need to make a minimum amount. Usually 5-8 kits.

Hey everyone! Sorry I went MIA for a few days. Here's some answers to your questions. I need to dig up some threads about these. I'll post back when I find them. LED bulbs are great..... in the proper housing. If you try and run LED bulbs in a projector housing that is designed for HIDs or halogens, you'll get awful light output. We carry high power LED bulbs for foglights/high beams but not for main beams. Your only solution would be Trucklites or JWSpeaker. These all have curved glass lenses if that's what you mean? If we can get 8 orders, I can make a small batch of them. I will start a RHD list.

Hey guys, Ben from Dapper Lighting. I frequent most of the Z forums and thought I'd chime in. 99% of the stuff on ebay is garbage. They are fake projectors and are extremely dangerous to put HID lighting into. The bi-xenon V2 projectors that we're using exceed FMVSS108/DOT specifications and will give you clearer, stronger, and better cutoff light than OEM vehicles. A good projector costs $120-150 so for kits to be selling for $99 with projectors and HIDs is a big red flag. Let me know if you guys want more info and I'll dig up some photos of the comparison shots between the two. Thanks! Ben

Good information: this is also a good site for people retrofitting: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html Our projectors are the standard headlight projector patterns that you see OEM on cars and motorcycles

The only variations that I am aware of have different cutoff plates? I'm not sure what you are asking. With my projectors, you can adjust the light focus if that's what you are talking about. The light output with a conventional halogen H4 is not good at all. People use higher wattage halogens which can be dangerous because it can blind oncoming drivers. That is why projectors are meant to be used with high output lighting because you get that cutoff. If you live in the mountains, you would love the high beams on these. I drive through the mountains and forests often and cannot tell you how much quicker I react to animals and obstacles because I can actually see them now.

It shouldn't matter?.... H1, H4 are just different types of bulbs. The light output is the same. I personally think H1 is better then H4 because H4 has a moving part and uses 2 different bulbs (for high and low) which isn't any brighter than an H1. The bulb doesn't produce a pattern because it is regulated by the projector and has a built in high/low switch. It's less problems to move a little flap that regulates the high/low as opposed to using a bulb that moves and uses 2 different lights. I hope that makes sense.

HAHA thats the best one I've heard so far. Tell her it is for your safety and well-being...or will that not help? lol

Are we talking classics here or the black modern kits? I only have the black kits (modern kits) at the moment. They are $400 shipped. The classic kit has not been finalized or funded yet so it won't be available for 6-12 months at the very least. The estimated price at the moment is ~$300. Other then that we don't have too many more details about them.

It all depends how much you want to spend. Like I said, we will have a kit similar to those for much less money. You could paint the light any color you want and you do not need to use high temp paint. (High temp paint actually turns white-ish after a while.) The housing does not really get hot because the projector inside is absorbing most of the heat.

I just found the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XE7-VALEO-CLASSIC-CHROME-BI-XENON-HID-PROJECTOR-LAMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d276e61bdQQitemZ400093503933QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Lol $800+ for 2 lights.... They are made by XE7 VALEO which is a sister company of Sylvania which is actually made in America. That's why they are so expensive.

I think you copied the links twice? I'd be interested to see the chrome ones. The classics on the other hand will have fluted/reflective lens that hides the projectors to look stock. The ebay kit that you posted is all hand/custom made. All of my kits are made in a manufacture and are tested 100,000 times low/high/low/high beams. Also my manufacture makes projectors for Suzuki motorcycles and a few German car companies. Price wise, we are much cheaper because we use a assembly line as opposed to 1 by 1 handmade. The classics should be under ~$300 USD for a kit but that is not finalized yet. Also you don't need a 50 watt kit for the Z's. The last thing we want to do is draw more power and fry our harnesses. My kits are 35 watts (plenty bright) and are directly connected to run off your battery as opposed to your stock light plug. Let me know if you have any more questions. Also please post the chrome link if you can. My manufacture stopped making chrome lights because it is illegal to chrome in Taiwan. So you know those kits are probably made in China

Wow! you read through like 15 pages?? That thread on hybrid has become way too long haha. The classics are going to do very well but they are very very very expensive to create. Roughly $75,000 USD is what I need to get that together (plus all of the legality, patents etc). I have posted on many forums and usually there is good response but very little action. I think it would be fair to wait until I started selling some kits before I donated. I am not trying to be cheap, I just have ALOT of expenses to cover for all this. I sacrificed doing my engine rebuild for this project :'(. I have been doing the thread on hybrid for more than half a year and only sold 1 kit through it. For reversing the cutoff plates, it is a fairly simple task of just taking it apart and flipping the plate. What it looks like now Cutoff plate reversed (notice the high beam switch has moved inside) Wires come out nicely Clears with the high beam (just a paper clip sticking up to hold the switch) I didn't test it out if its too hot for the plastic switch on the inside. You should be able to put up a little heat guard to protect it. Again, it doesn't look like a huge problem. If it gets really popular, I'll just have the manufacture send me a bunch of cutoff plates. Let me know if you have any more questions. Sorry for the bad pictures, they were on a camera phone from a while back.