Roberto

I agree with Mick.  Must catch up soon.

YES!  Absolutely yes, but clean up your work space! 

This looks like an impressive L28.  You must be itching to fire it up.

Hey Johnny,

Up and forward mate.  Great that you are back.  Hopefully things will settle down and you can finish off your beast.

Is that the undercoat or are you going black?

Looking forward to seeing how this car turns out.

Cheers Gav.  This is the black primer that has been wet sanded with 400 grit and then made to shine with a wetting of wax and grease remover.

Getting closer to paint time. 

Dale, here is your old roof (after lots of wet rubbing and several coats of primer).  I am still yet to have the whole body at this stage, but nearly there.

Yes, but without a price people just won't take action.  It's just the way it is! 

240Z race car around Monaco.

(for a moment there i thought it was the real deal on my iphone  )

What induction and size will you be using?

A standard wheel alignment won't fix the problem.  I had this problem too.  One wheel slightly closer to the valence although caster identical on both sides.

Best way is to remove washers on both caster rods if they exist and then get a wheel alignment.  If there are no washers on the caster rods, either get new rims, smaller diameter tyres or adjustable caster rods and adjust to get the wheels further back.

I simply went with a new spoiler that removed that panel. 

Yes empty the catch can when full.  Mine comes with a little plastic tube on the side which tells you the level.

The vent on the rocker cover ONLY sucks in air if the system is connected up with a PCV valve to the manifold.  Otherwise it will simply have oil and oil vapours come out.  That's why it can go to a catch can.

The Haynes manual is correct.  Filtered air goes into the engine via the air filter box into rocker cover and comes out the block breather to a PCV valve where it is directed to the balance tube and burnt.

If you want yo keep a PCV system with triple webers, you need to tap into each of the runners to keep it even as there is no balance tube.  According to PMC, sealing of the rings with the negative pressure is not necessary and it can all be vented to the atmosphere. 

Get a catch can and plumb both rocker cover and block breathers to it and have it all vented so pressure does not accumulate.

Google images has tonnes of pics for mounting ideas. Apparently steel wool in the can helps oil vapours condense and stay in the can. As Dak2kman said, do not plumb back into engine.

Why not put in the supercharged LS3 out of the VF GTS?  Crate engines are only $8000 and you have a very reliable, 550hp with plenty of torque and room for improvement?

What do you mean they are not available anymore?

There are over half a dozen online auto stores with the illumina bz3099 in stock.

Thanks for the input guys.  Apparently this particular product is ok for wet rubbing and you can apply it really thick and use it as a hi-fill although technically not one.  I have wet rubbed it in the past with no issues, but i think will try 400 dry and see how it rubs.

Here is a link to a no BS article for the painting of cars with this product (2K epoxy primer) and the "normal" grey Acrylic Primer Surfacer (APS) Spray Chief makes.

http://spraychiefcustompaints.com.au/images/spraychief-tips.pdf

No etching required.  No spray putty required.  No Iso-cyanates.  This stuff is almost foolproof.....

Nice job [/img]

Slowly getting there......

All the body filler work is now completed.  I applied filler where required (UPOL fantastic) to bare metal and primed over it with Spray Chief 2K epoxy primer.  I did it in stages so that no surface rust would appear after the panel was complete.  I should have probably used this approach with the paint stripping instead of stripping it entirely all at once.  Oh well, live and learn. 

Now blocking back of the primer until all of the ripples are cut out.  Will probably start with 180 to 240 grit dry and finish up with 400 wet before colour.

I am 99% sure on the colour.  See cars below with black wheels,  flares, bumpers etc.....

Any updates on this?

I recorded it on my PVR and just finished watching it. 

Nice car Dimitri and well done.  The 370Z was ok, but had nothing compared to your segment.

Watch for another surge in prices....

Roberto,

Thanks for info. But the 240's struts are taller than the 260's, so those springs you quote will surely be too short to achieve full spring retention?

Cozza,

I have an early 74 260z fitted the 240z low king springs and my springs are completely captive at full drop or when struts are disassembled from the car.  Does that help?

The tech dept. is dreaming.  Those rates are very stiff for the street.

The correct King Spring rates:

KDFL-08  305mm 100-170lb (progressive) FRONT

KDRL-09  285mm 175lb REAR

Cheers Johnny.  Great hospitality........

If there is no restriction, block off the return completely.  See if that helps things.

Thanks guys, Roberto do you have a part number?

 

No, I don't have a part number, but here is a link.

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/rear-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z

Great.  If Mick can't drive me, I will accept your offer.  Cheers