Kent

awesome mossy, that will solve the diff clunking i have then (yeah! one issue off the list!) Dewit, do you want to pm me the details etc and we can sort it out thanks Kent

Hi Mate, I am pretty sure they fit series 1 cars too (without modification)?, can you check with him? if so i will take the other one Kent

Hi Guys, I have been driving the car for 2 weeks now to work and back.. getting used to the gearbox, but it definately needs some work sometime in the future.. I had filled the tank up twice and didn't see any fuel leaks until friday night.. i filled it right up to the filler neck.. went and paid for the petrol then came back to a massive puddle under the car.. the car was parked at a slight downward angle, but petrol was washing over the back left side of the tank and dripping onto the floor, right next to the exhaust.. i presume the connection to the fuel filler neck, or the fuel filelr hose itself is the problem.. does this sound right?

Hi Guys, not 100% Z related (though my Z does have rust i really do need to deal with.. just scared to).. I am building an RB powered 240K coupe, i have just had it sandblasted and it is in pretty good condition overall.. there are a few areas that need some attention (as i expected), mostly small holes and a little bit in the front wheel well frame. I am picking the car up on saturday, but going from the pictures it doen't look to bad. I had originally planned to leave it in with the restoration shop next door to the sandblaster.. but their idea on pricing (couldn't give me a quote) quickly skyrocketed way past what i could afford or even consider (like $10k+ just for metalwork.. another $12-15k for paint.. i could understand spending that on an e-type jag or gullwing merc.. but unfortunately i am not that gifted/lucky). Does anyone have any recommendations on who i can take the car (or pictures) to for a quote on getting it repaired? i don't want things hidden under lot's of bog, but having said that, i don't think the car needs to be fully unpicked apart to fix what rust there is. I am cautious of taking it to the "average" body shop as i want the car to remain rust free for a long time, and it seems a lot of their skills now relate to bolting new panels on or bogging things up (obviously that is a generalisation, and doesn't blanket all shops!) I have been scared off getting the car past this stage for a LONG time (mostly due to cost and quality concerns).. i thought i was finally over the hump.. but now i am back to square one. as an aside, the Z probably really needs a full metal restore too.. the previous restore was/is pretty bad.. and there are a few cracks in the paint with bad rust underneath.. It is double depressing me.. of course, after the bodywork, i will also need any recomendations on body people and painters, so if you have any, please pass them on.. Thanks guys Kent

Thanks Guys for the info (and Sorry too for salty, i lost my best friend to stomach cancer 2 months ago, he left me this car and the webers, hence why i am keen to get them going) For the time being, i am just after a nice streetable car.. it is a weekend car.. but would love to be able to drive it to work more often (across the city).. the car needs a little work on it, but long term goal - realistically 2+ years (after i finish my 240K) is to upgrade the L24 a bit, bigger cam.. head work.. nothing wild just something to liven it up a little more.. not interested in breaking the original numbers, which limits me somewhat (otherwise i would be RB'ing it).. i have been waiting for these webers to roar into life for some time.. they were always a work in progress for my mate.. however much i pushed I would rather spend the extra to get the car working well now and for the next 2 years though than compromising the next 2 years until the cam/headwork goes in. I don't really understand the relationship between the choke and aux venturi to judge between your two starting points. Would i be better off going down to 32's (with whatever changes that makes in the jets and auxilary venturi) now, then back up to the 36's when (if) the head/cam goes in? along with the set of larger manifolds. If this will make the engine happier now, i am keen to do it. If so, what aux venturi should i get (would the current 4.5 work?) and do the 200 air, 40-45 pump jet, 50-55F2 idles remain the same?

Is that on an L24?

No, but it looks like they make chokes for the 45dcoe in sizes 28, 30, 32, 34 etc.

Thanks, unfortunately for now.. an engine swap is out of the question (early matching number car, and i don't have the room to store the engine for later), and both the car and webers have sentimental value. So i am reluctant to sell them up for a set of 40's. I am still very new to carb's, but wouldn't a set of 32-34mm chokes in a 45DCOE not be similar to a set of 32-34mm chokes in a 40DCOE (i presumed that is why they made them in the more restricted 28-34 sizes) Thanks Kent

almost forgot.. can anyone recommend any decent mechanics / tuners in Sydney (northern beaches, north shore or inner Sydney) who know Z's and weber's inside out?

Hi Guys, I was hoping that someone here would be able to give me some advice on some starting settings on a set of triple Webers. The Car is a standard (as much as i know) 1970 L24, it was rebuilt by the 2nd last previous owner, but details are scarce, so i can only assume it was not modified. It currently has twin roundtop Su's but is running way to rich i swear, my clothes usually have more petrol in the car than the tank does). I have a set of 45DCOE152 webers on a lynx manifold that use to be on a friends standard L28. They were tuned (badly might i add) a couple of years ago, but either the top or low end was never right.. I would love to stick them on the 240z. I know that 45DCOE are to big.. but it seems easier to put in larger chokes than it would selling them and getting 40's or smaller (eventually i may look at slightly working this engine.. but that is a long while off). The current setup is: Venturi (Choke) = 36 Aux Venturi = 45 (i presume this is 4.5.. 3 of them also have a 1 on the front, and the other three seem to have a 1c on the front it is very hard to make out.. no idea why they are different) Idle Jet = 60F6 (6/60, 60/6.. got them all mixed in.. i presume they are the same) Air correction = 180 Emulsion tube = F15 Main Jet = 145 Pump Jet = 35 from what i can gather a set of 30's or 32 chokes will be better for me, can anyone recommend a setup that i can buy, fit in and at least get the car driving (i know that the "perfect" setup will never be found over the internet ) Thanks Guys

no problems.. just let me know if the numbers do eventually get up there. thanks

if it ever pans out, you can put me down for a fiberglass one. where would you get the elbow pipe attached to the box shown in the picture? Kent

Hi Guys, thanks for the response, atleast it sounds like a whole rebuild is off the cards thankfully Gareth, i will check this out first thing on the weekend. Was the hose one that can be replaced easily with generic hose? or is it one of the funny shaped ones i have heard about? Thanks all once again Kent

Hi guys, I have just inherited an early 1970 240Z, The car isn't with me yet, but i do know it has a couple of issues that i need to get sorted out so that i can drive it properly.. One of the more annoying problems is a really sloppy gear shifter, so much so that it is pretty hard to drive (yeah, i am afraid i am use to newer ones ). the other one is a leaky fuel tank when filled over 1/4-1/2 way.. really got to fix that one quick From what i can gather, it is a FS5C71A gearbox with the flange setup. I have am slightly more familiar with the newer style gearboxes from the 240k.. but from a photo i have seen of this type of gearbox, the arrangement that the shifter goes in is very different. I had hoped just to be able to buy a set of bushes to install and fix it.. but i fear it is probably a little more complex than that. Is anyone familiar with these boxes and how this issue can be fixed? or am i up for a rebuild? and if so, any recommended places in Sydney? Thanks guys Kent

sorry, no i totally forgot yesterday. at this point, it seems to be sold, if it falls through i will let you know.

finally guys, a pic of the diff: The Z style rear cover and 260Z output shafts fit the diff no problems

bubble wrap i do have There is a sydney guy who has said he will take the nose, hinges and spoiler, so if it falls through i will let you know. Kent

Hi James, left you a voicemail, how is the 240Z going? i have a set of rear tailgate hinges from a 260z to give you too Kent

Hi Guys, i don't have any boxes big enough to fit the gnose in, but if you are happy to arrange a courier and they will take it as it is, i have no problems with that (will just have to arrange the date so somebody is home) The G Nose is pretty solid though , it would take a BIG bang to crack it. i would recommend www.smartsend.com.au I will grab some pics of the bob tail this weekend for you.

Hi Guys, I have a one piece fibreglass ZG nose. My friend had it fitted to his 260Z 2+2 and fit seemed ok (from memory a little work at the front fender would have made it really good). It comes with the set of ZG bonnet hinges required to make it all work. Pickup only due to the size of the nose cone in Baulkham Hills, Sydney. Only selling together $300 (from what i gather the hinges alone are worth $200) I also have a fibreglass 2+2 bob tail (too long for the 240Z), looking for $150.. should be able to find a box to post this one (Assuming Austpost takes the length) Kent

Hi Guys, i have a spare long nose R200 Diff which is suppose to have a 3.7 open center. It currently has Z31 cut half shafts and a Z31 rear cover (it wasn't in a Z31, it was from a 260Z, however i swiped the arms and cover for my R200 LSD) i don't have any method to ship it, so it is pickup only, It is located in Baulkham hills, Sydney need to get rid of it quickly to make room $200

Here are a few pics of them Kent

Hi guys, Thanks for all the responses. It is a 1 piece version, I will get some photos today and try to find the hinges I did notice there is a 5 piece one on eBay if anyone is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170625861791&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123

Hi Guys, i apologise in advance if i am in the wrong section (i know some forums frown upon selling things without a price), My best friend (a Z fanatic) recently died, he left me some Z bits and pieces which need to be sold as i have to clean out his garage for his family and i have no use for them. Two of the items are a reproduction fibreglass G-Nose and a set of matching g-nose hinges (i know he did have to buy these in from the US). The fibreglass nose had been fitted up to his 260Z 2+2 (we also breifly fitted it to my 240Z shell to see if it fitted that too), and is in primer. The hinges had been fitted but the car never really got driven (he really wanted a 2 seater ) he also had a set of ZG fibreglass flares, and a bobtail for a 2+2 (this is still in gelcoat) What sort of price range should i be asking for these things? i recall he had to pay quite a lot for the hinges, but i have no idea. Kent

thanks, just have to get them all into a car.. and the car going The engine is sold pending payment.