Gaijin

If your interested, this is the ATTESSA E-TS ECU and its wiring diagram. Without understanding this, the chance of using the famous GTRs 4WD capacity and the data tables that are stored in this ECU (seperate from the engines ECU) will not happen. Whats marked up in green is ok and managed by including these parts from the GTR (eg. G Force sensor) or from the 240z (eg. brake light signal). Others to work out would be, range of throttle position in volts, and the engine speed signal. Pluggin a meter into a R32 ECU (either E-TS or Engine) would have these values known. Unsure if the engine speed signal would be sine or square wave at this stage. Perhaps someone would let me gently poke a sensor probe into the input/output of either ECU from a R32? Glenn Martin ?> :-) The ABS portion of the E-TS ECU would be ignored, as these are outputs only (assumption). I could utilise this portion later If I wanted to add more weight and complexity to the car.

So its another trip down to see the man John, and to run through what needs to be done. Since Id rather have everything fitting as it should, he grabs the light covers back to fit them, make the holes etc. Same goes with the mirrors, they need a backing plate under the gaurd to ensure they dont disappear at speed. Ill email him some side profiles of some zg's so he can put them where they should, all looks while little chance of them being of much use... A battery should live some place at the rear end on the passenger side, mounted low. Ill bring the gas tank back down next weekend. Ill leave the XXXL battery box alone and place a smaller gel battery in there. The seat still doesnt fit as well as it could. I cant move to a smaller seat due to me body shape, so its further choppin required. The sill area gets a full length step down from last time, and completed on both sides of the chassis. Ill also remove the seat runner on the drivers side to gain an inch, and make the seat position somewhat unadjustable. The seat brakets so allow different positions, but not easily done while in traffic.. Ill also make a right angle against the trans tunnel to gain a little more room, to also get the seat shoulder off the roll cage on the door side. There is a small indent to the tunnel at the rear of the seat mount, so cut it out! Bloody seats! Who choose such a small chassis>? Handbrake issues, bought a GTR handbrake for a few bucks, seems like a suitable option. Will sit on top of the tunnel, but dropped into the tunnel a touch so it doesnt sit too proud. What is a half decent idea, is to see if a GTR box (R32) would fit into the chassis (if at any stage in the future I need my head read to progress with 4WD). May as well do it now since its here. Ya really feel this thing in the boot rolling around... It may not fit due to the .....seats? Lets do a rough check, Itll be the inner seat bracket to transfer case being the issue? Maybe...er.. Hmmmm, looks kind of ok actually, the gods are smiling.. The white outline is roughly where an obtrusion would eminate from the tunnell, sitting under my knees, so there is plenty of room actually, What about this driveshaft going to the repositioned front diff>? Extend a small section of floorpan to accomodate, So then, to mock fit this box in, Ill bring the RB26 dummy block down next weekend, and move forward with this trial fit. There is not much destruction required, apart from cutting of the existing gbox mounts, but they can be rewelded on later when the RWD box goes in. I may as well make the GTR one fit, itll be easier now than later.

The next and last panelbeating stage is the small stuff. Engine & box out to tidy up the engine bay Help accepted from all arigato Miu Work completed to lower the seat & rails, have suitable clearance for head height/helmet. The cage has a lot to answer for here. Where the inner sill and floor pan meet there is a 45 degree section to meet each other. This is made perpendicular, dropping the seat maybe an inch, all vital gains for my swede Issues still apparent, - left elbow/funnybone rests on side intrusion bar of cage, this will become very annoying after a few metres drivin, - suggest remove each side and notch, make a bend in the bar to clear elbows and reweld both sides of the car. - Steering wheel too close to body, get a more narrow profile boss kit for steering wheel, easily done. - handbrake needs to be relocated - battery mounted low and rearward somewhere. While we complete the final tin work, Ill take the time to drag a GTR box/transfer case down and see if the transfercase will clear the seat mounts/rails. Looks tight. Front glass work included making the nose section more rigid, keep some vague shape while at speed. Playing with front diff position at home, now suitable for current engine position in the zed. BEFORE AFTER If I spread this lot around the bedroom, Id get the misses on board to complete the car....

Spent a few hours tidying up the inside of the car, removing the 'not that old' sound deadening and foam stuff, so that the sandblaster can do its thing soon. Gives us a chan ce to fill the multitudes of holes throught the firewall, tunnell, floors that have been made, and many not required. the next step for me is to get the engine and box out for a final fling at the engine bay, which requried some work, harness tabs, holes, weld splatter, its all there and needs to be sorted. The stock seat mounts fouled the proposed seating rails, mounts and seat itself, so have been drilled out, leaving a smooth floor on the drivers side. Im still sitting too high, so along the outside chassis section, there is a 45 degree angled floor section that joins the floor to the inner sill. The outside mount fouls this, so by dropping the 45, we can gain 3cm maybe. Ill try that, and if its not enough, the whole floor drops under the seat, to gain the head room for me - 191cm, + helmet, which is hitting the cage & hoop. The handbrake also requires re-positioning, since the seats are wider than usual. On top of the tunnell, mounted further rearward will do fine. Could go for a floor mounted by the pedals, but a quick acting, accessible handbrake is important. Bonnet catches are in, with mounts securely welded to the front cage bar. Catches are lockable, sit above bonnet just a touch, after a paint should blend in enough. Now here is something that could kill the project.... I know there is talk of recession, even more recently talk of 0.1% growth in the economy. Im betting for great growth in my business, so In this majikal plan of growth and earnings, Ill need somewhere to throw a portion of this wedge. Dont stress, the car will continue as is, but with a small backroom project to gather necesary parts to make it happen later IF majikal plans come together.

Both front and rear zg flares on this car are wider than typical off the shelf items. bullet proofing the headlight to gaurd area bonnet shut lines looking better attach gaurd to inner support, more bullet proofing. Imagine this dodgy body kit peeling off on the motorway.... Bonnet looking smooth to the rest now to fix the gaps at the end of the flares, we had to break a few eggs to bake the cake Bonnet catches in welting in for the front gaurd, looks kinda overkill, might look at some smaller profile stuff rear bumper in one peice and shaved of its lumps and bumps the panelbeater has finished the body now, the seat mounting is left, and a quick beating of frame rails under the floors and we are painting. I will probably pull the engine out soon and get the engine bay tidied, since its had a lot of work done around there.

Ah yeah sure, the flares are wider than standard zg's. These Super ZGs are approx. 3 5/8" wide flat on the ground laid out, compared to the normal rear ZG version of approx. 2 1/4” flare. That’s 1 3/8" more width.

Yeah illegal that's my understanding. Dispensation, I need plenty of that! Ill give that a go. Once the mounting tabs are gone, its open to interpretation as to the fitment 'position' = opportunity to argue position/need for sticker type plate. Xmas, yeah see how everything pans out. Panel beater could still eat up a few months at this rate....c'mon already...

I believe they are a mold off standard items, apart from the arch itself is forward by 75mm. Don't think they come out wider at all. Starting to look the part.

Let it be known that the reason that I went with the G-nose is that the misses reckons 'it looks classy' (compared to original front with spoiler). The g-nose looks like a frogs face, its long and the overhang over the front wheels can look too much. With chrome headlight rings/covers and mirrors I'm hoping it balances out a little. Ultimately I want someone who knows NOTHING about cars to look at it and say, 'beautiful car'. It'll happen more often with the G-nose, after some quick (mostly female) market research. No dodgy body kits eh, nothing stays the same eh! OLD NEW Bonnet is on and some cutting and repositioning of the frame has been done. It needs more work to straighten up the shut lines. Catches are next. G-nose hinges were part of the G-nose deal from Kapiti Mike. Hinges are single pivot, not double like the standard ones. Areas to further tidy up; Gaps; Some fat to trim, under front guard; Arches looking the part, kiwi style some more stuff to chop out, all the tabs gone please. Don't want a dirty numberplate hanging in the middle of my precious airflow. Where will you go? Hmm... Right side front arch to complete Time to get more help to fast forward to/through the next stage. - Rip out everything inside, dash,heater etc. Prepare for sandblasting the inside of the car smooth. - Rip out all drive train and review engine bay. Require some re-work, old harness clips removed, holes filled etc. - Cleanup of old colour paint around front wheel wells, some of it is flaking off after applying paint to tar under seal too soon. Better dust of the overalls

, this looks shizen this looks ok

A mate came round and showed me what he's been doing in his spare time, over a beer and grub. Its the intake pipe ( air filter to turbo intake) I wansnt 100% with, Im looking for the japan style many welds look It would do very little to airflow vs pressure drop over the original 'digital' version, 45 degree angle styles. Looks smooth, and is a mock up. Test fit it today and works ok. We might swing the air filter horizontal, rather than up/down, being the only change.

Hey thanks Adam, Im looking forward to getting some paint on and some re-assembly happenin'!

He can be fussy, but far from ridiculous. It should be presentable, not much more. cheers Mike

Mike, got any RB parts left? thanks

thank you

Phoarr, anymore waiting and Ill have forgotten about this thing. As mentioned, the chrome bumper has been axed in favour of a glass unit from japan. chopped for cheaper postage reasons. Still has bolts and seams molded into the glass version. Odd. They will be smoothed over. Hard to see, but I borrowed Glenn MArtins front spare gaurds and copied the rearward support for the glass gaurds on mine, as they lacked sufficient support close to the door. Feels solid on the car now. The front wupport looks way out, but a little shaping and urethane will sort it. I picked up a pair of racetech wide's in glass with Ally mounts from Mr Black in Chch, who has helped with a great price. Seats were fresh off the press and sent that day. They fit me well, but not the car well. We will remove all the exisiting seat mounts in the S30 chassis, and look to make a section of floor lower than the rest, so my head&helmet has clearance to the roof. Ill detail this next time. The steering wheel is close enough to me, probably not requiring movement rearward, or replacement with a dished wheel. A sliding rail will sit below the alloy side mounts to give some fore/aft adjustment. The front gaurds had no face to bolt the headlight buckets to, so a steel equivalent was made and joined to the gaurds, bogged over. This will allow me to run the stock lights, buckets, chrome rings for the factory look. The gaurds are on and shaping work started. They need more work around the lower edges, but generally there. What an effort tho, chopping up the steel units would have been easier. Need to move that front bumper edge away from the flare, its too close. Inspection flaps cut back in. We had placed an oil filter and washer bottle accessible under them, so thought Id better get the flaps back in. Cut/place. A new catch has been made - area in red in pic. New old stock chrome S30 mirrors from Japan. To avoid the bonnet pin crap look, aerocatch install planned. Since the bonnet has its structural rim on the underside that covers over where I was planning to put them, another catch will be made, similar to the inspection flaps closing mount. Thye are lockable, fit almost flush, and seem to look OK on other customs Ive looked at. The front requires some 'air giudance equipment'. i.e. make sure we get sufficient airflow across the desired areas, its a pity the bonnet swings back into it all when opened.... The front inner part of the nose has been strengthened up, as it wasnt able to support itself in the right shape. The numberplate mounts will go.

Eh like I say not me talking, look forward to your updates. Look forward to chasing you across highway 16 too...

Almost forgot about this thing down south after 3 weeks off. how very refreshing! Last time I talked to me man John, he said "we'll finish the metal work, then I want bills paid" Fair enough. Either that or some of the 40k odd persons following these threads globally start sending their cars to this guy...virtually immediatly Hence why the work finishes clearly where the metal stops. On the outside at least. Havent told him about a few minor things to chop later.... seat mounts, bonnet struts (eh Mike), holes Ive made in the engine bay etc etc..... All good so far. right side still ok, just needs the gas flap keyhole welded up Note that window chrome & SS into position. Had to move a couple mounting holes for the rear quarter glass windows, as cage fouled chances of getting a screw in......unles your hooked up? Save it. Few other issues at the rear.Did some costing of rear metal bar, take one dull but straight unit, de-chrome, weld up all exisitng holes and seams, straighten/smooth, re-chrome etc = $$$$ vs buy new glass bar and paint a colour and sell old dull bar. no contest. Plus minus many kgs, pity its the wrong end eh. I can break many glass bar before asking for mr dull chrome back. Chrome could always be thrown back on later if I have a spare wadss of cash. This pic is to note. What is going on here. Surley a clean body cant be painted with a skin looking like the close up of the moons surface? BEADBLAST approaching. A new step added to the build. Argh well....I might get back 1/20th of it upon sale price..... Not me talking Panle beating getting a flash boring, time to spice things up a little I reckon RSVP

The panel beater fellow is a pushy bugger, so its off for another epic drive to hand over parts that are requried to help work on the next areas. Thanks to Glenn for the gaurds, these will help take moulds for the front end work which will start next week. After a quick review today, it looks like as much time as the tin work has taken. ie. Quite a bit.... Ill ecplain over the next few weeks. Here's a better pic of something I mentioned a while back talking suspension, If the rear end still feels too mushy with softer tires at the track, the hard bushes you see may get replaced - rose jointed, etc. Indicator hole filled up. No warts here. Hatch likewise with opening device. Dove tail hatch area all done & sealed Left hand side continues, almost there. Rear quarter replacement panel originally from Tabco, some USA outit. Not much went back on the car. The front pillar needed a bit of love, so love applied. Few other parts/areas furthered

Yeah, Mike,back to Kojak look, but minus another 10kg. Re. the cable opening boot, petrol flap, bonnet, agree completely to all of them.

Pardon the delay, the panelman has begun some work. Its been about 1.5 weeks work for 1.5 men roughly so far. In no specific order. Butt welded everywhere, minimal filler rod used - (oxy acetylene) 60% metal work complete. Few holes to recover in places, otherwise Im happy. Car was treated with Tectyl?, spray on goo stuff to help minimise rust , from new. It looks like rust , on the inside of panels, but its just this tectyl stuff. OK? Welder could tell, weld bead wouldnt look like that, welding to rust alright...already Enough of the boring rusty 'looking' stuff, Arches at the rear. Folded lip flat, and butt welded again, so that the inner arch comes flat. gives the tire more clearance. if the chassis hits (not gonna due to bumpstops etc) the tire wont be hit with a sharp edge of the gaurd. ie. no crazy high speed blowouts from this scenario. One side of the (metal) car almost complete, The rear end is looking 50% done. Ill get the sparky to wire up a solenoid for the hatch release/lock. Left side has started, but requires the fundamentals. Nice section constructions around the pillar. Nice butt welding on the door. My excuse for lateness, forgive me Cancers, chemos, transplant and heart issues. Dedicated to the Datsun cause. YEAH

Lets check my 'off the cuff' front spring rate choice last year..... Arm chair engineering Motion ratio at the front is not far off standard, even with lengthened arms +50mm roughly. Spring rate, as a function of motion ratio, corner weight and desired suspension frequency. Could back up this pile of gobbledegook by pulling out the strut inserts and measuring the natural frequency doing the bounce test. This would include additions of bush and movement frictions. Google has the answers as usual. Corner weights are guessing within a range, as is suspension frequency. Looks like the current 250lb springs will be too SOFT, giving lower frequencies than desired.

Gavin, two g-nose kits were offered a while back from Mike, ruler of a clandestine Z hoarding and storage operation here in NZ. He had a 5 peice - but incomplete in steel, and a one peice in glass. Took glass for quick and easy install, light too. Since mods were likely to be made with/to the gnose, glass was going to be cheaper/easier to hack up. Swapped a new front bumper for it. He also provided the light covers. Good man!

If things got real bad, these light covers could cover the mortgage... maybe not

Yeah, keeping HICAS probably a little silly. Best to remove something variable like that. The beast needs to be tightened up, without any wobbly back wheels. Would be interesting to run the HICAS thru the ECU, and to do your own map. Id call you a geek if you did! Re. the subframe. Its reasonably straightforward. You will chop S30 chassis! If your into no chassis mods, you'd need to shorten the track of the subframe (more custom parts, driveshafts etc), all of which increase costs further. I may have done it in a somewhat cost efficient way. ie. Cut some chassis, shove it in, weld her up. The subframe could have been moved higher up in the chassis, but would require further chassis mods, new rear floor, new fuel cell etc etc, ie. more costs. Thanks for the support, REALLY enjoying the build myself, as you would. REALLY impatient to get the ECU in and car wired up.... Looking to do some work that even Julian Edgar would be proud of. (Early Zoom editor/ECU tech man) My day job has stepped up so the car has been lonely. better post something - keep the thread alive eh... Mike again comes to the rescue for the new light covers. Dont see these floating around too often They are mint. Perfect. Let the panelbeater make them fit nice. Blame the truck body for taking time - worked on by the customer, then brougt back to the shop, jumping the queue. RUDE ! Never mind. Once the truck cab is out, Im up.