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If you have access to an engine crane, i found that unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the motor up a few inches made everything a whole lot easier.

Thanks for that! Andrew

Hi all Am trying to get the L26 started, is running a haltech E8, fuel and spark. Have a couple of questions: 1) with 440cc GTR yellowtop injectors, what should the injector duration be (in milliseconds) at idle (say 1000rpm)? Just need a ballpark to start with. 2) what should the startup timing be? It's currently set at 10 deg BTDC on no.1. Any help greatly appreciated. Andrew

So I pulled my heater core and so forth out of the car some 3 years ago planning to get the heater and demister working again. 3 years later I'm trying to reassemble it. Does anyone have a pic of the way that the cables run to the actual heater controls? I can't seem to figure it out. Any photos or relevant pages of the workshop manual greatly appreciated.

Possibly a dumb question, it wasn't apparent on the MM install pics - does a longer driveshaft need to be used in this application?

Hey mate, looks like I need it - the one Baz got in was the wrong one. Will shoot you a pm. Andrew

Here are the links/email addys to the US guy and his email response to me (I asked if they could sell me a rebuilt unit outright but they're low on cores, apparently) http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/40/products_id/1174 zman@zspecialties.com Andrew, we're very low on those particular cores so we're not able to ship them outside the US. The only way we can do it is if you send us your core and we'll rebuild it and send it back to you. Turn around time is usually only a week or two for us to do that service. Shipping it via the postal service is the least expensive way to do it. For us to ship back to you using Priority shipping, the cost is 32.66 + 25.00 handling fee which comes to a total of 57.66. It will cost less for you to ship the core to us than it will to ship the rebuilt valve back to you. You may look into it at your local postal facility. I'd suggest either waiting until summer (for you), disconnect your heater, remove the valve from your car and send it to us, or temporarily bypass it right now using some copper tubing to take place of the vacuum valve. You can temporarily just use your mechanical valve to control water flow while the vacuum valve is gone. Once we receive your valve core we'll contact you by e-mail. Then you can make a deposit directly to our paypal account in US funds. We'll rebuild it and send it back to you as soon as we can. That will tie up less of your money than if you order the valve directly through the store. The only way that the store can calculate for you directly, it would charge you the core charge and shipping via UPS which is considerably more of course. Z man

BUGGER! As soon as I order one for $254, people come out of the woodwork with mint condition ones! Hah, don't worry it will help someone on here no doubt. To summarise my findings as at July 2010: 1) these valves are NLA from nissan. They're not making them anymore. 2) Barry (Baz) from datsport (adelaide) may be the batman of obscure datsun parts. He specialises in 510 stuff (datsun 1600) but there is a brand new valve on its way to me now. 3) there is a place in the US, Washington DC, called datsunstore.com run by "zman" (a guy named Oliver). Google doesn't really turn it up but I saw a link on the US zed site. They can rerfurb your valve, but you have to send them the core. Once you factor in postage there, postage back, and the cost of the rebuild, it might be lineball with the one I'm getting from Baz, but a lot more screwing around. But in any case I'll be holding onto my messed up core. So my main point is, people, if you can get hold of these valves in whatever condition do it because they're only getting rarer. Having a core at least gives you options in terms of rebuilding.

Yep I just went on ebay.com (ie the US one) and entered 260z heater core and a bunch of hits came up. This one was $99 USD, but postage was another $45 USD or so, in the end it worked out to around $170 AUD. There were ones on ebay.com for around $79 but they wanted heaps for postage, it was cheaper to get the $99 one. Also there is some guy in Washington that reckons he can refurbish the later model 260z heater valve, so I am seeing if he can help me out. Seems like they're not selling new ones anymore. Will post up if it works out.

Well, I have got a new heater core and the rubber preformed hoses at home, but still no luck with the heater tap. The nissan dealer has access to all the parts except this one. Here's some pics of it - anyone got a decent second hand one they may want to sell? I might take this one apart to see if there's some way of repairing it so it doesn't leak.

stuff is sold, thanks. Andrew

Hey, where did you get your bore dial gauge? I have been half looking for one but I don't really know what is a good one, how much to spend or where is a good place to get one from. Any suggestions?

I've managed to get a reasonably even and consistent cross-hatching pattern in the bore using the 3-pronged stone-type hone. Need to use a variable speed drill on the slow setting and practice working the hone back and forward to get a good hone pattern. It takes some technique but not prohibitively difficult. I've used brake fluid, WD40 in the past, found it to be much of a muchness.

The nissan dealer reckons they can supply the heater tap - for $261. Ouch. Hopefully MSA can help.

Thanks, I've been trying to get in touch with MSA but so far no response. Normally they get back in a couple days, so will wait a little longer. Chris, don't think I'll be able to make Saturday. Driving around with a passenger floor full of heater components and a boot full of dash console is not heaps of fun. Nizm0zed, thanks for the offer, but really I would probably have to kill myself if I replaced the tap and it leaked again. Is there any way of checking if the tap is in good condition?