fomoco_44

Hi again Lurch, What type of needles did you get? I'm used to webers....so the whole needle id has me stumped. I understand that the shape\taper controls the mixture throughout the range.....just not sure which one to start with.

Sweet Thanks guys

Hi All(again) Been fiddling with the carbs on an engine that I bought from a wrecker. After a bit of research I believe that they are HS6 SU's off a Volvo, and not the 240z SU's. To get it to idle ok I have to wind the mixture nut on the front carby right down(nearly 5 turns), while the rear is about what I've read it should be(2 1/2)...even then the front carb is still running a bit lean. Have looked for vacuum leaks using the typical methods, and can't seem to find any. When I isolate the carbs from eachother, via blanking off the balance pipe, I notice that the front has a higher vacuum than the rear I've got one of the good sync meters, and have set them both equal. I have also done the test where you lift each piston seperately to check the others mixture....and got them both to the point where they almost stall, then I richen them up a notch. To my way of thinking, the only thing left is the needles(mis-match or bent). Does anyone know what type of needles are a good match for this engine\carb combo?...also, where I can get replacement needles? P.S. I have also checked the valve clearences and cam timing

Hi All, Been fiddling with the engine again and thought I'd ask the experts what type of cam I have in it. Cast in to the shaft are 'Japan' and 'E30'.....is this the standard cam? Also, bought the engine off a wrecker who said it was an L26, how can I check to make sure?

Just found out my Dad has a Crane Cams XR700\3000 conversion kit handy, looks like its the right part number too. Has anyone had experience with this type before? He was keeping it for his Cortina, but I'm thinking of buying it off him.

Sweet Thanks again, Lurch

Hi All, Just wondering of the Pertronix kit will work with the later model 260z dizzy?. The kit says its suitable for 240z 71-73, not sure if the 260z dizzy is the same. I'm asking because I'm having a lot of trouble sourcing a 280zx dizzy up here in Sydney. I've seen one or two on feebay, but they were asking silly money for them compared to a Pertronix kit. I've acutally bought in two electronic dizzy from the states via ebay: 1. E12-80 type-Had a broken plastic ball retainer on the spindle for the advance. Managed to fix it but can't seem to get it to fit to the cam drive, almost like the slot in the end of the dizzy drive is too small. 2. The second one looks like its an older model. Hasn't got the ignition module on the side, has 3 wires coming out of it and has two electroic pick-ups inside. Priced a module from the states and it was more than a later model dizzy!

Hi Lurch, I used a pair of digital verniers to measure inside, just didn't want to start pulling it apart. I was under the impression that all 280zx MC's were 15/16?...i bought another one that was labeled as being off a 280z in the states, and it was also marked 7/8 (forgot to measure that one before I sold it). Before i go to the drama of re-plumbing the lines, i'm trying to figure out if its worth it for this particular MC. I priced a 1" Patrol MC(JB1419) from Repco and they want $209 for it, so thats my next option if this one fails. I saw a pic of the JB1419 somewhere, and it had the outlets on the bottom, same as standard Zed's.....which seems to be different from what other people have said?

Hi All, I'm fairly new to the Zed universe, just been fiddling around with a mates 260z 2+2 that we use for car club events. I have upgraded the front calipers to Hilux 4-pots and put braided lines throughout, last on the list is a larger brake MC. I purchased this one via ebay recently, advertised as a 280zx MC. Marked on the casting is 7/8, same as the original 260 unit(pic). However, when I measure the bore opening(just before the plunger) its 24mm, which is pretty close to 15/16!!. Am I measuring the wrong part or is the marking on the casting playing silly-buggers with me?

Just snapped the 2nd bolt off!!....one left to go now!. Heating helped budge is a couple of turns but then it just snapped. I am thinking I'll snap off the 3rd one and try to get the head off....then I can get to the threads with some brake fluid and much aggression. Thanks for your help guys

Thanks Guys, I think I might stick with the flats and do nothing for the moment, apart from check float level....having enough trouble getting the head off!!. Just snapped the 2 bolts off and still have one last one to go!! I'm thinking of throwing a full-blown hissy-fit in the hope it will take pity on me and relent its hold on the head. Zedman, Thanks for the advice in the other post I put up.......and I had\have no idea what a 260c is!. Will have to do some googling to find out.

Hey All I've done enough research and reading to understand that the flat tops on the 260z I'm working on aren't the first choice in carbs for those in the know. However, I'm in the process of changing the head gasket and installing a set of Genie extractors......so I thought I might look at putting a kit through the carbs to freshen them up. This is in light of a track day I have coming up at Wakefield in 3 weeks. I've putting all my eggs in the head reco and extractors and hence don't have much left over for a carb upgrade to round tops or even DGV's. I wen't to repco and got no luv there, and a carb specialist in the area wants $200 for the complete rebuild kit(without new needles). If these carbs were working ok(rough idle and stalled easily.....though headgasket is leaking) should I just leave well enough alone?....or does anyone know where I can get a kit cheaply? From what I can gather, the only real thing I can adjust on these is the float level, so I think I might give that a look soonish.

Ok, thanks guys.....had never heard of spark erosion working on a thread before. Our old toolroom had one for making dies and jigs, but it was a pretty big machine. Hopefully I can get the other two out without snapping them, so then i only have to deal with one and can leave the block in place. I am still a bit wary of using an easy-out on the stud....bit worried that if its tight enough to snap the head of a high tensile bolt an easy-out might not have a chance. Glad you reminded me of the Heli-coil...completely forgot they existed!!

Hey 260Coupe, Forgive my ignorance, but whats spark erosion?

Hi All, New to the site and new to Zed ownership(not really the owner, just an amateur mechanic in an amateur car club) Anywayz, down to the problem at hand. Its a mates car I'm working on (76 2+2 260z) with a leaking head gasket, which looks like it s been a problem for a while. I wen't to take the head off last night and removed all but three of the bolts which just didn't want to budge. Thought i would take another stab at it, as the others were tight with corrosion but eventually gave, and the head of the bolt sheared off!! After many expletives I inspected the remains to discover why it was so tight....coolant has seeped into the bolt hole, dried and virtually welded the bolt to the head. I suspect this is the case with the other 2 bolts(evidence of fluid weeping down the bolck near these bolts). My plan of attack from here is to heat the remaining bolts with a portable blowtorch, bit of shock therapy with a lump hammer, and sacrifice a small animal to the Datsun Gods. Once I can get the other bolts off I'm hopping I can lift the head up and over the snapped bolt, and then have a better chance of removing it. Does anyone else out there have any other ideas\hints\advice for me?...anyone had the same problem