p510psi

Hi all, I have a set of 240Z gauge internals for sale - please refer to attached photos. These original gauge internals were removed from my vehicle to retrofit alternatives. The photos indicate what is included, the gauge bezels and brackets are not included. The gauges were all working when they were last fitted to my car in 2008. Open to offers - please PM me if interested. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, I have a set of 240z hubcaps I'm looking to sell. They are in reasonable condition - please refer to the photos. I'm looking for $200 - PM me if you're interested. I'm in the western suburbs of Melbourne. Thanks, Craig

Hi all - the vehicle is now sold. Thanks

Hi all, The vehicle is now back on the market. It's also listed on Carsales. Combined with being out of the country for a month, the sale process with a couple of interested parties had absorbed some time since the original post. Thanks, Craig

Thanks for the comments guys. The photos in this thread illustrate the latest status (flares included). I do actually still have all the original bits that were cut off during the fitment of the flares! These will come with the car in the event anyone is really keen to go back to original.

Hi all, I'm looking to sell my 1973 Datsun 240Z. The forum topic best illustrates vehicle and modifications: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1562-p510psis-rb25det-240z-project/ Model: 1973 240Z Location: Melbourne Price and Payment Conditions: bank cheque, internet transfer Item Condition: Good Body: Rust in passenger side floor pan - this has been cut out and replacement floor pan and rear section come with car Mechanical: Runs and drives - requires towing Registration: Not registered Engineers Certificate: No Refer to link for more details: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1562-p510psis-rb25det-240z-project/ Contact Details: PM I have also attached a couple of pictures that reflect the current state. The vehicle has been in storage for the last year in Melbourne. Although most of the hard work has been done, it is an unfinished project. It doesn't have engineering approval or registration. The passenger side floor pan has been cut out, and a new replacement pan comes with the vehicle. I'm looking for around $30,000. Feel free to PM me and I would be happy to answer any questions. Thanks, Craig.

Hi all, I have a 240Z engine cross member for sale: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/glenroy/brakes-suspension/datsun-240z-engine-crossmember/1068799200 PM me if interested. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, I have a Lincoln Electric Power MIG 180C for sale. The unit was purchased in Feb 2013 from a local distributor, and I've used it once for some temporary tack welds on my floor pan (~approximately one hour of usage). It's still in the original packaging and has all the accessories. I'm asking $850 for everything as pictured. Pick-up only (Melbourne northern suburbs) PM me if you're interested. Thanks, Craig.

Hi Dimitri - sorry the welder is already gone. The engine crane is also now sold.

Hi guys, As pictured in the earlier posts, I have a 1250kg engine crane for sale. 1250kg engine crane $100 $50 PM me if interested, pick-up only. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, Updated prices: Rear lower arms (pair) $50 $25 Front cross-member $100 $75 Tools 1250kg engine crane $100 Ozito 140A Arc Welder $40 30L Compressor + accessories $40 PM me if interested, pick-up only. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, I'm still looking to sell the following: Rear lower arms (pair) $50 Splash panel SOLD Front lower arms (pair) SOLD Front cross-member $100 Pick-up only (northern suburbs of Melbourne), PM me if interested. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, Front and rear struts sold pending payment. Thanks, Craig

Hi all, I'm cleaning out the garage and looking to sell the following parts: - 240z suspension: includes front and rear assembled struts, lower arms, caster rods. I'm willing to sell seperately as pairs too (eg. front struts, rear struts..) - 240z rear moustache bar - Leads set - 240z splash panel I'm open to offers on any of the parts. Located in the northern suburbs of Melbourne, pick-up only. Please PM me if you are interested. Thanks, Craig.

I'm beginning the preparation for replacing the floor pans, so I thought I would take the opportunity to get a bit more inspiration by getting the car back on it's wheels with the new additions of front and rear lips. While I had planned to do the floor pans myself, I think I'll look for options of getting someone more skilled than myself to do the work.

Hi all - I've made some progress since my last update. The engine is running again after the changes to the intake and turbo side. I've run it up to temperature in the garage without any issue, here's a video of the first crank earlier in the year (with only the dump pipe fitted). The exhaust is now completed and fitted to the car. Although I've only started it up and given it a rev in the garage, it appears to sound OK. I've also decided to change the current 17" Simmons wheels I have now. I'm after a more nostalgic Japanese look, so I have purchased a set of 17" Rota RB-R/X with ZG flares. I'm running 9.5" on the rear and 9" on the front. While I would have preferred to go for a set of 16" Watanabes in the same width, it would require changing my front brakes to a smaller diameter for clearance. This is something I'll consider again in the future. I had the Rota wheels painted in a flat dark grey - it probably doesn't suit everyone's tastes, but I'm happy with the result. I'm currently sourcing the tyres - I am going for 255/40/17 Falken RT615 on all corners. Once they are fitted and I'm happy with the alignment of the flares, it's time to get the angle grinder out to the cut the body! Finally, I have also been slowly working on tidying up the interior. Next jobs are fitting the classic rear lip spoiler, ADR approved race seat and oil cooler. Thanks, Craig.

Hi all - it's been a while since I provided an update, so I've included some images of what I've been working on. Following on from my last post, I have now completed all the setup of the turbo including the intercooler piping and dump pipe. I'm currently finishing off the remainder of the exhaust system. Next on the list is an oil cooler setup, sway bars and some interior items. Hopefully it should all be done before mid year. Craig.

Hi all - I have a set of standard wheels and tyres available for someone to take away for free. They can be picked up from the Northern suburbs of Melbourne. PM me if you're interested. Thanks, Craig.

The turbo is a GT3040 (GT3082R). I had originally purchased it five years ago for my old project car (Datsun 1600). I've seen good results using them on RB engines, so I decided to go with it rather than sell it on to go for the more popular GT35.

Hi all - just a short update on some recent project progress. I decided against forging ahead with the exhaust and intercooler piping while retaining the standard turbo and manifold. The more I looked at it, I realised that I would have to change things substantially to accommodate the turbo I had planned to fit at a later date. So, a bit of research and many measurements (and some favourable exchange rates) saw me going for an exhaust manifold from SINCO in NZ. Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the positioning of the turbo and the available space for the external wastegate, oil & water lines etc. As illustrated in the photos, I still need to finish of the piping fabrication - it's just tacked together to get everything fitting. I'm gradually working through the long 'to do' list. Craig

Hi all, I have a set of front calipers from a R33 Skyline GTS-t for sale. They were removed from the front cut I purchased, and I have gone for an alternative front brake setup. They would serve as a great upgrade for a Z, and have been used on other's projects previously. I'm looking for $250 for them. I disposed of the rotors as they were damaged when the front cut was placed on the ground. I'm based in Melbourne, but would consider organising the postage at the buyer's expense. PM me if you're interested. Thanks, Craig.

I've been pretty busy with work lately, so progress has been fairly slow. In the time since my last post I have had the car driveable and functional - I've been able to maneuver the car around within the confines of my driveway to check the basics of the clutch/gearbox and brake functionality. As I mentioned in my earlier post, I was planning to change to a front facing plenum to eliminate the length (and poor aesthetics) of the current piping. I was able to source a second hand GReddy unit with minimal use. The images below have the throttle body adapter fitted - I will remove this and go for an aftermarket 80mm throttle body. This should allow for enough clearance between the resulting piping and guard. If not, I'll have to get an adapter made which shouldn't be too difficult. I have some custom piping to finish it all off then it will be back up and running again. I'll then be moving onto the exhaust system which I'm starting to accumulate bits for. I've also included a shot of the turbo I will end up using once the vehicle is on the road. Once I resolve all the small issues and get a feel for the car, I'll be changing the turbo and manifold and also changing a few other things on the engine. There's been alot of other little bits and peices that I've been working on, including finishing off the interior, new door locks, new ignition barrel, new roof lining, short shifter kit, etc. I still have a fairly long 'to do' list before the car will be ready and legal for the road, but I hope to have it all done during next year so I can attend some of the club events! Craig

They were on the engine when I bought my car - I removed the engine to do a conversion and sold the engine without the leads. They look quite new, here's a pic:

Hi all, I have some parts from my 73 240Z which I would like to get rid of: - R180 Diff + axles (from an automatic) - 240z front brake calipers - 240z brake master cylinder - set of plug leads - R33 Skyline GTS-t front brake calipers PM me if you are interested - I'm open to offers on all items and can provide photos if required. I'm based in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne and would prefer pickup, but I would post the leads and master cylinder. Thanks, Craig

You don't need all the relays to make it work in the car. It depends on how it has been setup in the car - you could hardwire a number of these items instead of having the ECU drive them. I went to the approach of having all controls (including lights, wipers, horn etc) being low current signals to switch relays as this allows the use of a power distribution box. This in turn keeps all the power supply wiring much tidier. It also makes it much easier to diagnose problems in my opinion. As I was going for a complete rewire of the whole car I wanted to integrate the everything into the one electrical system. NZeder - I'll keep an eye on your project thread to see how it all goes. Your car is looking very impressive!