anth

No worries Mate hope it serves you well......by the way fired the datto up with a fresh load of e85 and spent the sunday tunning it without any boost Im running 69 size main jets ! Cheers Anthony

Hi guys , A change in direction yet again im offering a ld28 diesel and 3sp jatco for sale in perfect running order. I want what it owes me $650 cash... the conditions are you take the lot , im not interested splitting , stripping or parting out I will help load onto a trailer at my end (frankston east Victoria) any question call mob 0449656515 cheers anthony

Why not......it's not like it can't be changed back....they ran nissans in holdens.....merc's in z..... most 32 hotrods have 350 chevs in them.... it something different and it has been done before

Most will frown, The car im considering is my Xb gs 6 cylinder it had it's engine taken before i bought it that's why the engineer approved it the best part with the diesel conversion is the car has to comply to the engine and since diesels doesn't have any real pollution im limited to noise which being diesel falls under commercial so it's all positive .....Veggie power is good we have ran i Mercedes 300d on it for 4yrs no issues have friends with boosted nissan sd33 4x4 running 18psi straight veg oil no issues its great stuff but messy to process I wont start a build here because it's off topic to the "Z" I was chasing advice,but I will do a Engine build because that's on topic as I stated if it goes tits up i will sell the lot together for what i bought it for. Cheers to all appreciate it Anthony

I think its about 230kg........ If i decide to change my mind as I do sometimes would there be any interest in buying the complete motor and trans..? cheers anthony

G I have played with petrol I want to do something different for change im bored i have played with boosted petrol(carb), Tuned boosted 85 (carb), have done lpg I have been impressed with how tough the nissan series engines are "A" and "L" So the ld28 is based on a l series 28 thats got to be a good thing ......It a project at the moment , I have also spoken to a engineer and he is happy with what im proposing just the donor car is the issue........I no longer have a z I would love to get another but I don't have the room or coin so im using the cheapest option to me another roller non nissan I bought the engine and box because at that price i couldn't turn it down Cheers Anthony

The inlet manifold is similar to the 280zx just with out the efi, My plans were to bolt on a turbo I have and modify the the pump, the options i have is mill up a flange and make a turbo manifold,Find a 280sx turbo manifold and machine it to suit or run a J pipe off the cast manifold. Thanks for your help . I think it will be a matter see what happens, age is a limiting factor as Ld28 aren't common here compared to the sd33 or td42 mosr 4x4 places local haver not heard of it,The wrecker I bought it from didn't even know what it was and it took him a day to think of the price. Cheers anthony

the last datsun runs a om606 mercedes diesel which i looked at dropping into our diesel merc but at 6,500 aus compared to 800 euro it was little too much,there a 5 cylinder direct injection the std bottom end is good for 900nm and close to 600 hp on 3-5 bar. I guess i will see what this little motor can/will do it's a nissan 7 bolt main so thats got to be a good start........ cheers anthony

Cheers Guys I would be interested in the manual for sure, do these engine have any real weakness maybe rod bolts/.rpm ect, will any of the turbo manifolds bolt up or only 2.8 from the 280zx ? its a project,something different but should be fun, the motor is the first stage ,and the hardest part is finding the information as there not that common. appreciate the replys

I in the middle of planning a new project just picked up a ld28 diesel and 3sp jatco, have been doing some research but cant find alot about there weakness strengths ect.........So does anyone know anything. I have heard the 280zx turbo manifold bolts up with some modification,but they seem hard to come buy so does anyone make flanges to suit? appreciate any help cheers anthony

Hey guys,were chasing a 260z 2+2 ,perhaps a new thread for 280z please!!! Cheers Anthony

just something about the por 15 product it works by sealing the rust but you must prime when still tacky or it wont stick just flake off. good luck sanding this stuff when dry too! Remember it's uv sensitive so sunlight will break it down............I recommend it over any rust convertor simply because of the trace elements most rust convertors leave behind,that leach into the steel seams/scale and cause rust later thru acid etching......most convertors are little more than battery acid and we know what that does to steel. You can't convert rust into metal as rust is the process of irons oxide atoms in steel breaking down with oxygen all your doing is cleaning the surface ,unless it's sealed from oxygen/moisture which air has it will continue to rust, por works by being able to bond to rusted surfaces reducing further breaking down by elimanating oxygen hope this helps Anthony

have sent you a pm speak soon cheers anthony

thanks will keep it in mind but a little too far! mind you if we haven't found anything buy late jan we usually are in echuca for a cpl of weeks so we will consider looking at it at it

Sorry to all but we need the car to be able to move under it's own power or a motor in place that i can get going as where it's being stored can't be accessed by tandem trailer. If anyone has a complete car it would be a real bonus but other wise we appreciate and will consider all offers... cheers anthony

Ok guy's I'm still searching for a 260 2+2.... cheers Anthony

NIce collection I have sent you a pm speak soon

G'day all it's been a while since i have last posted but I am in the hunt for a new project z. If anyone has a project or a spare parts car that is still partly complete drop me a message.] cheers anthony

ok the first thing you need to do is get the hardest green scourer like the one's you use for doing the dish's./parts cleaning rub the complete spoiler with this. The idea behind this is to "key" up the surface with little scratches,this allows the primer to adhere too. You must have no shiny parts of the spoiler otherwise the primer won't stick!.....you should see it dull off with little scratches then you clean the bumper with clean rag and prep solvent,this removes oils and any dirt your fingers and handeling may have left behind. once dried spray with a primer, can is fine just try to have long even coats eg spray the hard to get bit's first then use long even coats to prime the spoiler 2 choices of primer Highfill or primer. High fill is perfect for repairs with filler( BOG) or big scratch's I find KH brand(yellow) type very good for little jobs and it does come in a can. If your bumper is good, standard primer is good 2-3 coats allowing 10-15 mins between to flash off dry.(can be used through a std gun) Give it an hour after the last coat and never dry in the sun this include's top coat rub down with fine grade wet and dry until smooth it's good to use a cheap grade of acrylic top coat to spray over the primer eg Black this will guide you to how much and where you have sanded. make sure you dont rub all the way through to the spoiler and if you do dry the spoiler and touch up later once your happy allow the water to dry the longer the better as any moisture will come up later if the primer hasn't released it all. know clean again to remove fingure oils ect top coat by know you would have an understanding how your going to spray it eg procedure as it's the same technique as the primer. do not try and coat the whole spoiler in one hit you need to put a dust coat over the part. this is a light coat you will still see the primer ,do the hard bits first and build up the others parts to match,know when the spoiler look's uniform and has flashed off dry spray the whole thing again . wet coat spray the hardest bits(shape) whilst these area's are still wet apply a coat long stokes to avoid over spray,then another coat not allowing the first to dry this should give you your gloss if at any stage you get runs primer/top coat allow to dry and wet and dry the marks/runs out allways use light even coats as heavy will always promote problems. I think that about it.......?

ok to start with your best to get a gravity feed spray gun much better to use. you need a compressor that won't be chasing it's tail in your case it's only a spoiler but you need at least 14cfm for a whole car...! once you choose your gun you can't really change between products Acrylic gun's wont flow 2pack there tip is too small and unless your good at spraying setting the flow will be much to great for acrylic using a 2 pack gun. I had a tip fitted so I can make a compromise. but it's not perfect. (most highfill primers require another gun) products... you can spray acrylic over 2pack but not the other way unless you use a isolator coat . acrylic primer, thinners,retarder,bog, high fill must only be used with acrylic. 2pack must be used with 2pack filler ,hardner,thinners,ect... Acrylic by far will be the easyest to work with any runs can be rubbed down in 20-30 min the drying time is quicker and it require's no hardners and dosen't need to be baked. 2pack requires higher temps to quicken the drying time giving it more chance to run or gather dirt. 2pack will give you gloss of the gun how you see it is how it drys,but it hardens up hence why bonnets and bumpers in 2 pack chip acrylic tends to flex. cost this may not be a problem but acrylic products for the amount you need will be cheaper. ps.... there was a clear product call "6min clear"by concept paints gives acrylic the same look as 2 pack thus you don't need to buff it. sorry if this post is scattered cheers anthony

I've sent you pm .... cheers Anthony

hello all, one thing I have noticed and would like to bring to peoples attention is the use of rust convertors,I understand the use and principles but what is not advertised is some of the acid breaks down with the oxide in the metal/rust and then remaind's. it becomes a concentrate which leaches into seam's and panel joins then slowly drys. when this acid asorbs moisture it reactivates and breaks down oils, primers ect and promotes rust further or reacts with primer and paints. eg battery tray's suffer this fate in all cars.... I will post the product name i use on my car's/friends can't remember for the minute ( will post name tommorow) I have only seen it stocked at Automotive paint suppilers so you won't find it at autobarn,bigw ect they use this for marine applications eg oilrigs,steel hulls. Hope this helps a few or atleast be aware where you apply it anthony