G

I'm now tempted to go the Subaru diff route with the outputs from the US. Sounds like a workable solution to get an R180 LSD in a decent ratio.

Sounds like I should go with a 3.9 then. The car was originally auto, so I think it has currently has a 3.5 in it. As for the R190 - it's real. It's a Nismo 4.44, which i suppose is only really useful if you're racing or REALLY want to build a replica 432R. I'm tempted to go the Subi route. Maybe I need to do further searching on a "how to". Cheers Guys.

At the moment I'm working on reawakening my 240 which has sat in the shed for a long time. Prior to being laid up (the car, not me!), the car and and I enjoyed the experience of employing nearly every shonky tradesman in the biz to work on the car. Names that have been mentioned on this site ad nauseum and which I won't repeat yet again. Anyway, this time, I hope to do a little better. To date, since tentatively rejoining the z community I'm happy to say I've met some great people. Names that appear on this site again and again and who tirelessly seem to give of their time, energy and knowledge. Anyway, I digress as I'm about to return to the knowledge well once again to ask more questions!!! At the moment my car is running a 240k/240z box (I think) and what I assume is a 3.5 or 3.7 rear ratio. Whilst I search somewhat in vain for a P90 head for an engine rebuild, I'm going to try and focus on the driveline and suspension and getting that working properly. Current plan is to replace the box with a 260 jobbie and the diff with a 4.1 or 4.3, then fixup the suspension. No point going fast in a straight line if you can enjoy the curves!! For those who've done these mods, do you find a 4.3 too tall for a road car? I have the opportunity to buy an R190 4.4 LSD, but wonder if it's just going to be too high for something which isn't going to hit the track. I've also been reading about WRX rear end swaps, but I wonder if in the long run it's just easier to try and source a Nissan r180 rather than try to modify stuff to fit a z. I'm also guessing there are good and bad ratio boxes for 260's. In combination with the 4.1 or 4.3, I'm wondering what makes a good 'fit'? General thoughts or ramblings appreciated!

Sold

Saw that one Dimitri! Have already asked for a bit more info. Do they look like flat top pistons to you?

Anyone have a rebuilt or good condition L28 short motor with flattop pistons in it for sale?

3 Weber Triple 40 DCOM's for sale - last of the Italian carbs. I bought these a few weeks back and have decided to go with something else instead. Former owner said they were rebuilt. I haven't put them on a car, but they sure look pretty good. He had them on a 240K. Comes with linkages and a few other bits and pieces. You'll need a manifold and maybe some trumpets and you'll be OK to go. I'm asking what I paid for them - $600 and they're yours. A cheap way of getting Webers on your Z.

260z 2 seater and 260 2+2 parts car down Mornington way. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/moorooduc/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-seater-shell-with-roll-cage/1015221625 I sent my father out to go and look at this one today. 2 seater is in primer and the primer has attracted the moisture, so has surface rust. Apparently the hatch is in good nick. No motor, no gearbox. Dig in the rear quarter. 2+2 is very bad, has motor and auto tranny. Boxes of bits and an unassembled, kinda rusty roll cage (which apparently cost $4k). I won't be buying, but if there's good bits... can I have first dibs?

:)fair call. The reason I asked was because there's actually multiple part numbers listed by TRW for the same model caliper. Additionally, there's more than one hilux listed for the same year. For anyone reading this thread in future, I found this article on the subject to be one of the clearer examples: http://drivendaily.org/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades/

Anyone got a part number for the pads?

What pads did you end up using for the fronts?

That's what I was thinking. I'm not going the vented option (trying to keep it truly as "bolt-on" as possible), so I'm hoping it's not TOO different.

Has anyone done the Hilux front brake swap and NOT changed the master cylinder from standard 240? I'm struggling to find a Type I ZX master cylinder, but at this stage I'm keeping the standard rear drums so I thought perhaps a 1" MC would be overkill. Interested in feedback! Cheers G

Anyone tried waterless coolant or anything similar? I'm particularly interested in hearing from the race guys who really give their engines a beating. Not really sure about increasing fuel efficiency or hp, but the corrosion issue is definitely worth considering. Cheers G

Peter Who are you using for pipe work? It looks very clean and neat...

PM!

Hey guys Bought a set of rebuilt 40 DCOE's off eBay. Problem is, I now discover they're DCOM's NOT DCOE's. Does anyone have any experience with these? Some guys say they're fine, others are not so "gracious" in their feedback. *gulp* .. help?

Just got a set of almost new Weber 40's. Couldn't be happier - now begins the conversion (and from what I gather) heartache...

Haha! Thanks HKSZ! I called those guys once and asked them if they sold Webers. He said "yes..er...*cough*...kinda..very similar, but better". To cut a long story short, I didn't bother taking it much further..

Hi Guys I ordered the z therapy vids a few weeks ago - still waiting for them to arrive. I like the look, sound and... well, the VIBE of Webers. Always wanted them, but could never justify the expense. As we're likely to pull the motor down and do some head work whilst we're there, I'd like to bolt on a set of sidedrafts when it goes back in. Even though injection is the sensible option from an engineering perspective, I still like the idea of Webers (or equivalents). acf311 - the only thing stopping me getting the OER's is the cost, otherwise I think they're the best option!

Wow. Relegated to a specific carb brand. Seems a little rough! Are the Toyota ones a matched set? I'm starting to get a bit confused. I've got someone saying "never get webers", others saying "never go 40's - always go bigger" etc etc. That's all well and good if pockets are eternally deep! If that was the case we'd all have perfect z's I guess... Whilst I'd prefer 44's or 45's it's probably going to mean new carbs, which at the moment I'm going to find a little difficult to stomach. Missed out on a set of Mikunis from the States, but not much else seems to come up - at a price to match what can be imported from o/s anyway... Any advice? Ideas?

I can get 40's, but I've been told that 44's and 45's are better. I have a pretty standard 2.4, but I will be doing some head work I think or maybe installing a worked head. I will probably keep the 2.4 though. Have you seen this 1600dave? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/perth-region/engine-engine-parts-transmission/sk-racing-carburettor-twin-40mm-escort-datsun-/1012434862 Looks like a nice setup of OER's - which I'm told are the best of of the sidedrafts to get.

Might be worth checking out this one since you're in Adelaide: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-/170986226984?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item27cf92c528&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1156 I would try to take someone who knows what they're looking at. Even if you don't buy it, they can tell you where the typical problem areas are.

Since my first ad worked so well, does anyone have any triple webers, mikunis etc for sale? Just thought I'd ask..

Looking for a Triple Weber Manifold - prefer with linkages. Anyone?