Alternator alternative

[T.A.P]

My 50amp alternator wasnt squeezing enough juice to drive the add-ons that Ive installed so the only remedy would be to upgrade the alternator. Ive done some research on the net in regards to which alternator is a good candidate, the bolt-ons like the ones from the 280zx is only giving about 60-70amp which is alright but not quite enough so I decided to buy a universal alternator from eBay for the cost of $139 plus shipping. This one gives 110amp which is more than enough to drive any modern car and still has plently of power left. It can be used as 1-wire or 3-wire, so connection is quite easy if you choose to go the 1-wire route, the 3-wire is a little tricker but nothing of rocket science. The only nagative thing about this Alt is that you will need to modify the mount so it can be fitted.

 

Here are some pictures if any one wishes to use them as reference when swapping theirs.

The F and N connector for 3-wire

Old alternator

Side by side comparation

Here I shaved the mount off using an angle grinder, keep grinding away until the mount is about 16mm in thickness then test fit and grind more if needed to align the pulley straight in line with the belt.

The boss decided to take a quick nap...

Heres a T female connector hooked up, white/black wire is the the recharge lamp (F or L) and the double red/black wires are for the signal (S or N) connector.

Since the alt uses internal regualtor the external one is no longer required. However small adjustment s are needed to make the lamp and signal wire work as they should. The white wire needs to be connected to the yellow - this connects the signal continueity. The blue wire needs to be connected to the white/black wire by a diode (the stripe end of the diode to the white/black wire) - this connects the lamp continueity.

The F or L connector goes to the #1 pin on the alt and the S or N goes to pin #2.

The optional step is to fabricate a rear mount for the alt since the old one uses double mount, front and rear. I got a piece of steel about 1.5mm thick cut and shape it to the requirements and viola. This can be skipped as the alt is already held very tight by the front mount and the adjustable mount but for peace of mind this step is recommended.

All hooked up, this is a good time to upgrade the current wiring system if you havent already done so. The stock harness can not handle the extra amp and might burn out, 4 gauge wire is plenty here.

Lamp lights up at Ign and off after the car started. The alt is giving ~ 13V at idle (car is idling at 600 cold-700rpm hot) and gives out 14.8V at ~800rpm.

Headlights now brighter, car response is much better. Overall highly recommended upgrade over the old alt.

 

Heres are some links that might be of help.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180735638415 - Alternator

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html - Good read, heaps of info on re-wiring

 

 

 

[Six_Shooter]

Instead of modifying the alternator for mounting I would recommend modifying the mount that is bolted to the block:

 

I cut mine on that marked line, I don't seem to have a picture of it after it was cut.

 

Modifying the mount instead of the alternator, allows for easy and quick changes of the alternator if one ever fails

 

I also used a GM alternator in my car, though mine is 160A and a CS series, that was built for a car with a rather large stereo, but never installed, so I used it in my 240. I'm thinking of going to a stock 105A, just to get a better idle charge.